S197 Motor Mounts

[Rick Simons]

I currently have Prothane motor mounts installed, primarily to keep the headers from moving around and keeping one header tube from coming in contact with the steering shaft during hard right cornering and/or deceleration. For these they serve the purpose, and also improved the shifting as well. They have just one little annoying trait though- there is a harmonic that develops between about 1800-2000 rpm. Now it's not really that severe (the average person probably wouldn't detect it), but I don't want to think about the possibility anything vibrating apart under these conditions. I was thinking about removing the Prothane mount on the driver's side and installing the stock mount. I figured I might use the lateral rigidity of the pass. side Prothane mount to keep the header off of the steering shaft, and hopefully the different durometers would eliminate the harmonics or at least change the frequency/amplitude to something more livable. Has anyone experimented with mis-matched motor mounts?

 

[Flusher]

I ran solid mounts on my '71 Mopar. Vibration was the worst at idle, rattling everything apart.

I discussed this with several of the old racers circa 1986. The common problem and solution then was: The driver side rubber sandwich construction mount is placed in tension and would fail when the engine torques toward the passenger side. The passenger side mount, which is always in compression, rarely failed. The driver's side rubber mount would be swapped for a solid mount. A factory style rubber mount would be used on the passenger side.

I never actually tried this, but they say it makes the NVH livable.

Note: Urethane mounts did not exist at that time.

 

[NickD87]

I ran prothane mounts for about a week lol
They were slightly taller then the stock mounts and I believe placed the drivetrain in tension
I would worry about the huge difference in stiffness between the two and a possible issue with throwing off the angle. The stock ones are literally bags full of oil so I maybe you can find a different brand that uses a slightly softer durormeter


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[JeremyH]

Running different mounts on each side would be a horrible ideal. Been running poly mounts for 12 plus years no issues.

 

[Anti]

I have been running bmr's adjustable poly mounts for nearly 3 years now. A little NVM is expected to get less power loss in the drivetrain and improve shifting. I wouldn't let it worry you. If it is luxury smooth you are looking for, I am afraid poly or solid mounts is not your thing.

People can say it is not a good idea to run two types of mounts, but it up to you to try (daily driver). They will both hold the motor in. I say give it a try like Flusher said.

 

[Laga]

I`ve had BMR poly motor mounts since my SC install three years ago. I noticed a difference at the beginning, but got used to it fast.

 

[nfrizell]

I did the bmr mounts in my SC gt MT, best mod yet. Changes the whole feel of the car.


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[Vorshlag-Fair]

We tried some of the poly mounts talked about in this thread on our 2011 GT...

We used one of these sets of mounts for about two seasons, then they looked like this.

They fell apart, melted. This was an NA engine with lots of extra cooling. Have seen this on other cars, too.

We had to machine some new poly bushings to make them work (raise the engine back up). I wouldn't put these in a car I cared about, not as quickly as they failed.

There isn't anything better than the OEM or aftermarket bits for the S197/S550 out there. We're working on a better solution, but it will be considerably more expensive than the stuff on the market now.

 

[Rick Simons]

Thanks to all for the feedback. It's a fault of mine to try to make everything perfect. I'm just going to drive the damn thing and not worry about what little vibration there is.

 

[eighty6gt]

My steeda mounts are perfect after decades of abuse, now right next to my coated longtubes without the factory covers.

If they melt down I can make new bushings, no problem.

I use the harder durometer inserts.

 

[Pentalab]

My steeda mounts are perfect after decades of abuse, now right next to my coated longtubes without the factory covers.

If they melt down I can make new bushings, no problem.

I use the harder durometer inserts.

Zero issues with steeda mounts after 6 years. Very slight, tiny, barely audible vibration at 600 rpm only. Gone, now that idle has been increased to 750 rpm. Titanium Ceramic coated JBA LT's helped, no heat from them. Oem heat shields re-used. This is on a 2010 GT..with M90 blower.

They supply 4 x reds and 2 x blacks...(05-10 GT). (07-12 GT-500 gets 4 x blacks). I used 1 red and 1 black on each side. Blacks are stiffer durometer.

The steeda mounts allow for a 1/4 - 1/2 - 3/4" eng height reduction. I used the 1/4" redux, so the Roush CAI clears the steeda STB.

Oem 'hydra mounts' are sloppy, gooey things, too much flex imo.

 

[GlassTop09]

Well.....there's nothing like a picture to lay it all out there.
A picture is worth a thousand words...………..