Speaker and Amp Installation 2014 GT non Shaker

[5.0 Probie]

Good day all...

I did do a search. But one thing that sucks about the search is what folks name their threads. Nothing came up. Most of what I found was folks replacing head units and worrying about the connections between the old harness and the new deck... So If I missed it in my search, and this info is already here. Please be kind enough to link me instead of the accusing me for not trying to search first. Thank you...

Just ordered two sets of Infinity Reference 6832cf speakers and an Alpine MRP-F300 to power them.

I need all the tips I can get. It has been about 15 years sense I did any installs like this. I did order an amp install kit from Crutchfield as well.

However... How do I connect the amp to the factory deck? Do I have to do a hack and splice job on the factory wires? God I hope not...

Any tips as to how to go about getting everything apart? Crutchfield did send me instructions.. And I have quite a few different types of plastic rivet tools from my audio nutcase days... But I want to be as clean and damage free as possible with our new Stang...

Also, best place to mount the amp I assume is under the rear deck-lid?

Thank you in advance!


**I just noticed I did not go back into the audio forum before making this thread. My bad!! Please move it if that is necessary and the right thing to do... **

 

[BadHabit2Break]

That amp has a harness for the speaker level inputs. Depending on how far you want to go and have the balance work right.

1. You could pull the signal from the rear speakers for the input of the amp. This will kill the balance control of the HU.

or

2. Get an LOC that plugs into the harness in the back of the radio and gives you RCA's out. These should be plug and play and be on your way.

 

[123456]

As far as the speakers, they will not fit as a direct replacement in the front doors. You will need the adapters that come in 2010-2012 speakers. It's a plastic molding that goes I between the door and the speaker.

As far as the amp, you need a high level to low level converter. I personally like the audio control lc2i. It's a small basic but one of the best converters. It has 2 channels of rcas coming out. One for a bass amp and another for a voice amp. You're going to need to tap into the shaker amp which is located in the drivers kick panel. I dont recall the wire colors of the top of my head. When I get home ill look and let you know.

 

[5.0 Probie]

Great tips fellas thank you. Makes perfect sense...

BTW 123456... THis is not a Mustang with the Shaker in it. Just the four speakers... I will look into the speaker mounts. Weird Crutchfeild did not say anything...

 

[123456]

Oh ok then you can just tap into the rear speakers for the loc. and since you don't have the shaker then you won't need any adapters from what I know.
I should have specified that was for the shaker system.

 

[5.0 Probie]

Oh ok then you can just tap into the rear speakers for the loc. and since you don't have the shaker then you won't need any adapters from what I know.
I should have specified that was for the shaker system.

No worries at all. I appreciate the help. It may help someone else who has a shaker system =]. I should have made that clear in my post and not just the name of the thread...


Will I still need those adapters for mounting the speakers you spoke about?

 

[123456]

If your stock speakers are a 5.25" mid and a 1" tweeter in the same housing, then yes. If not then I don't believe you'll need it.

 

[5.0 Probie]

If your stock speakers are a 5.25" mid and a 1" tweeter in the same housing, then yes. If not then I don't believe you'll need it.

Yeah, I have no idea. All I know is there is not a speaker/woofer at the bottom of the door, just a mesh area on the upper portion where sound "Try's" to come out

I will taker a door apart this weekend and have a look. Thank you

 

[5.0 Probie]

Halfway through the Speaker/Amp install... Taking my time and enjoying "Garage" time... So far so good.

I did decide to mount the power connection to the main under-hood fuse panel. At the point where the connection is made from the batter to/on the fuse panel by Ford. I figure it is a small AMP and worth a try. If it does not work out... I will just buy a multi distribution block and run the power directly from the battery to the block, then move the connection I have now on the fuse panel...

I needed every last inch of the kit I purchased... Had to do some creative "Tricks" I learned when doing installs 20+ years ago...

 

[VTXFrank]

I've got almost the same speakers installed in my 2011 GT non-Shaker. Edit: I have the Shaker 500. But still, in the thread I linked is a link to the online manuals. I'm not sure if they have the 2014 on there or not. If not, perhaps someone has another link to updated manuals for the wiring diagram.

I found the stock amps push them just fine. However, I did mount a self powered sub in the trunk.

Here's my thread about the speaker install. No adapters needed. So unless something changed between your 2014 and my 2011, it should be very easy to do. Time consuming, but very straight forward. There's a link to the wiring diagram in that thread as well.

 

[5.0 Probie]

Nice job and thanks for the link! My system is amp free from Ford (At least I have not found one). It is the 4 speaker system. No shaker... That is why I added an amp... I cannot hear the sports radio talk without cranking the stereo in our car. A lot of white noise. That and I am easily putting 50 miles a day on Pepper... So I have a lot of radio time and need reasonable sound... Pretty hard to enjoy Metallica or AC/DC with paper cones that have no power... Reminds me of my old 77' 3/4 pickup... lol...

 

[5.0 Probie]

Here are a few pics of my progress from yesterday...

And this is to demonstrate that the mounting of the AMP will not interfere with any of the factory interior "Stuff"... As one can see, the end of the self tapping screws are much lower than the 6mm bolt heads (I read these had been 14/4", not on this 2014 Mustang GT) that mount the speakers to the rear deck-lid...

 

[Scott_0]

nice job, that's where I mounted my sub amp, I used a piece of wood b/w the amp and body

Sent from my Galaxy S4 using Tapatalk

 

[5.0 Probie]

Good idea Scott... I figure if this comes loose down the road that is what I will do and hard mount brackets with locking nut's in the cab...

Well... All done... Just like the Seahawks scrimmage game today... all went without to much drama...

That said... Man oh man am I disappointed in the passenger side paneling. Putting them back in SUCKED and I scratched both pillars on both sides. No matter what I tried... Two seat belts... One door jam that needs to go in first, and two pillars was just to much... They could have and should have made this a two peace kit like they did the kick panel on the passenger side. So disappointed in myself... Up to that point, not a scratch or blemish... Flawless!

Now the sound on the other hand is quite something. I had no idea that the factory "Shaker free" base GT sucked as bad as it did... You all should see the deck! hahahahahaha... I had to do a double take inside the deck looking for any electronics in it... The electronic would not fill a walkman case!!

Anyway... Hells Bells rocks... U2 sounded like U2... And Snopp, well needs bass but that comes later...

 

[blk12gt]

I am going to copy what I helped my old man design in hopes of helping air flow around the amps. As far as my current setup I just have a line out converter t taped off the rear speaker, remote wire taped from the antenna, and 8 gauge run under the cowl (used a cowl screw to hold the fuse holder) and ran it along the door channel. I am not going to invest much time or energy in it until I get an aftermarket h/u.

My current

My old mans s/u

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[LS1EATINPONY]

amp tray is nifty!!!! I have no pics but I actually built a dummy wall that sat against the back of the back seats so when you opened the trunk you saw no amps. You just had to open the back seat to access the amps.

 

[blk12gt]

I have done the "wall" before but the music I push through the amps over heats them if I dont have a lot of air movement... my tray will more than likely be the entire width of the package tray...

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[5.0 Probie]

*Update*

So we have about 11k miles on Pepper now. And this weekend was the last straw for music. There is something wrong with Ford Sync as no USB unit of any type works after the first use. It keeps saying something like unit not recognized... We have had it at Ford twice. Both times they say "Their" USB works. While my S4, Two Ipods and one new Sony Walkman work fantastic when first plugged in. Then after restarting the car it either says unrecognized, or says something about this file is not playable. It just does that for as long as it likes as songs it just played not long ago, are no longer compatible... ARG!

That and I am tired of "Half sound" with no sub. It is hard to rock out when all you have is mids and highs... Of course having them is wonderful, we just want the music to sound like it was intended to.

So...

Just purchased...

Alpine MRX-M55 http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRXM55/Alpine-MRX-M55.html?tp=115 For my two JL Audio subs sitting in the garage for the last three years.

Kicker 09PKD4 4AWG ROHS Compliant Dual Amplifier Power Kit http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RNNYAW...20&ascsubtag=4a251a2ef9bbf4ccc35f97aba2c9cbda

And plan to get the Kenwood DNX891HD kit from Sound of Tri-State because of the deal the offer on another site (Another $300 off the package price). http://www.soundoftristate.com/kenw...1-and-adsmrr-steering-wheel-controls-included

And while I am at it, a backup camera CMOS-320... http://www.soundoftristate.com/kenwood-cmos-377

 

[rcm90]

You will be really pleased with the 891.