Steering issues with 07 GT

[Kyleag89]

Hey everyone I just recently purchased a 2007 GT coupe which is only my 2nd Mustang I have owned with the first being an 89 GT. The car is lowered with what looks to be Ford springs on the factory struts. As far as I can tell the only aftermarket parts on the front end are the coil springs, Brembo 6 piston calipers and much larger rotors. I also have 18" Apex Racing wheels with 285/40r18 tires on all 4 corners. In the rear there is an adjustable pan-hard bar as well as adjustable lower control arms. The problem I am having is really bad wandering steering. I am new to McPherson strut vehicles but I think what I am experiencing is bad bump steer. I have read that with stock parts I shouldn't be experiencing bump steer at all but the car is very shifty and will dart left or right constantly. The car came with new factory replacement front lower control arms, tie rods, and sway bar links which I installed with little impact. Before I go get an alignment is there anything else I should check or replace? I did set toe using tape measures and checked camber with a bubble gauge. Drivers side camber is -1.2 and Pass. side is -1.7 and already has camber bolts in the top mounting hole.

 

[ryunker]

Hey everyone I just recently purchased a 2007 GT coupe which is only my 2nd Mustang I have owned with the first being an 89 GT. The car is lowered with what looks to be Ford springs on the factory struts. As far as I can tell the only aftermarket parts on the front end are the coil springs, Brembo 6 piston calipers and much larger rotors. I also have 18" Apex Racing wheels with 285/40r18 tires on all 4 corners. In the rear there is an adjustable pan-hard bar as well as adjustable lower control arms. The problem I am having is really bad wandering steering. I am new to McPherson strut vehicles but I think what I am experiencing is bad bump steer. I have read that with stock parts I shouldn't be experiencing bump steer at all but the car is very shifty and will dart left or right constantly. The car came with new factory replacement front lower control arms, tie rods, and sway bar links which I installed with little impact. Before I go get an alignment is there anything else I should check or replace? I did set toe using tape measures and checked camber with a bubble gauge. Drivers side camber is -1.2 and Pass. side is -1.7 and already has camber bolts in the top mounting hole.

Ensure all of your hardware is tight on the lower control arms. Sounds like meh, its good, but that is likely the issue. If all that is double checked and good, get an alignment. From what you posted it should pull to the right.

 

[JC SSP]

First welcome to the best Mustang forum in the world.

Second post pics of your ride and modifications.

Third how low is your car? Ford makes two different springs sets. P springs lower 1” and K springs lower 1.5". The later will usually need extra adjustment to set the alignment strait.

Finally take the car to an alignment shop and let them do a full suspension check.

 

[Kyleag89]

Thanks guys, it does pull right slightly how did you know that? I have no idea how much it is lowered because I can't one any writing on the coils. It seems like a lot but I'm not familiar with mustangs so maybe not. I will try and get better pics today. All the hardware is for sure very very tight. I used my 1/2" impact gun to tighten them followed by a breaker bar. I'm going to replace the struts as well before getting an alignment. I was planning to buy complete factory spec replacements and swap the coils for the lowered ones unless there's a better way to go?

 

[Kyleag89]

Pics

 

[Kyleag89]

I don't know if I should start another topic or not but I have been getting the infamous P0174 code for lean bank 2 sometimes. Also the code for lean bank 1 shows up in pending codes when this happens but hasn't set an actual code yet. Today when driving home the CEL came on as soon as I got on the gas hard in a strait away by my house. The car has a BBK cold air intake and the hood scoops are functional and dump directly into the CAI filter. The previous owner told me about the code and had cleaned the MAF sensor the day I bought it. Since then about (3 weeks time) today is only the 2nd time the code came up and both times was when the engine was at 5kish rpm. I have put about 800 miles on the car in the last 3 weeks already and only twice had the code shown up and only at high rpm. Could this be a sign of a weak fuel pump or just the intake letting more air into the motor than the injectors and/or the fuel pump can keep up with?

 

[DieHarder]

Hey everyone I just recently purchased a 2007 GT coupe which is only my 2nd Mustang I have owned with the first being an 89 GT. The car is lowered with what looks to be Ford springs on the factory struts. As far as I can tell the only aftermarket parts on the front end are the coil springs, Brembo 6 piston calipers and much larger rotors. I also have 18" Apex Racing wheels with 285/40r18 tires on all 4 corners. In the rear there is an adjustable pan-hard bar as well as adjustable lower control arms. The problem I am having is really bad wandering steering. I am new to McPherson strut vehicles but I think what I am experiencing is bad bump steer. I have read that with stock parts I shouldn't be experiencing bump steer at all but the car is very shifty and will dart left or right constantly. The car came with new factory replacement front lower control arms, tie rods, and sway bar links which I installed with little impact. Before I go get an alignment is there anything else I should check or replace? I did set toe using tape measures and checked camber with a bubble gauge. Drivers side camber is -1.2 and Pass. side is -1.7 and already has camber bolts in the top mounting hole.

If your steering is sketchy/wandering you need to know why. A good alignment shop should be able to tell you. In my case I found the lower half of my steering column needed to be replaced. Money well spent.

Best handling/comfort combination I've found to date are Roush springs paired with Bilstein B-6's & GT500 Strut mounts. Firmer yet compliant for everyday driving and still handles well in the mountains. Worth every penny.

 

[ryunker]

I don't know if I should start another topic or not but I have been getting the infamous P0174 code for lean bank 2 sometimes. Also the code for lean bank 1 shows up in pending codes when this happens but hasn't set an actual code yet. Today when driving home the CEL came on as soon as I got on the gas hard in a strait away by my house. The car has a BBK cold air intake and the hood scoops are functional and dump directly into the CAI filter. The previous owner told me about the code and had cleaned the MAF sensor the day I bought it. Since then about (3 weeks time) today is only the 2nd time the code came up and both times was when the engine was at 5kish rpm. I have put about 800 miles on the car in the last 3 weeks already and only twice had the code shown up and only at high rpm. Could this be a sign of a weak fuel pump or just the intake letting more air into the motor than the injectors and/or the fuel pump can keep up with?

The lean code and pending one has nothing to do with the scoops and cold air intake system. It is more like a vacuum leak, kind of major one. It could be a MAF, but more likely somewhere else. Could be fuel pump but save cash and have it troubleshot. Smoke test should be done on the intake system.

 

[Kyleag89]

I really wish I knew what springs were in it already but there's no way to ever know since the PO died in Iraq. I got the car from his friend that's also in the Army. He was getting deployed again and wanted to sell it before he left. I plan on getting an alignment asap only problem is finding a shop near me that will actually know what they are doing and not try a toe and go. Is there anywhere in particular I should be looking for vacuum leaks? I don't see too many vacuum lines on this motor and I'm not familiar with fords at all. I've been a life long GM driver. I guess I will give making a smoke machine a try. Never had the need for one before and I prefer to do everything myself if possible.

 

[JC SSP]

Most OEM and aftermarket springs will have a code and/or part number stamped/painted on them. Goodyear, Firestone, Pep Boys can all do a basic alignment check & adjustment. With warranty too!

Sorry to hear about the original owner. RIP

 

[Kyleag89]

Yeah thanks its unfortunate. I can't find anything stamped or printed on the coils but maybe when I take the struts out I will be able to see something. I think they may have been in here for awhile and worn away. The car has sat mostly and has 92k miles. There was a Rousch module in the trunk with a wiring adapter pigtail that I have no idea what it's for. Best I can tell is it's a fuel pump driver module. I'm going to start a new post about it. Back in 07 when I was 18 my father bought a brand new Shelby GT and this car is bringing back memories of that car.

 

[MasterofDisaster]

Is there anywhere in particular I should be looking for vacuum leaks? I don't see too many vacuum lines on this motor and I'm not familiar with fords at all.

I would idle the engine until warm and then spray WD-40 at every connection after the MAF, including the gaskets at the TB and manifolds. When it kills the idle, you've found your leak.

 

[carylarock]

If it was my car I would look into a set of good coil over struts/ springs. Depending on what your goi g to use it for track days or not you will have the adjustability. Shop around like American Muscle.com or your favorite site. Get a good set read the reviews for comfort or track. I like the BC racing sets can be adjusted quite soft and good ride and can go failly stiff. You definitely need to take it to the alignment shop no matter what. If you want it lower and more aggressive look I would not use stock shock lengths.

 

[Kev555]

Any chance its still on the original factory suspension? Ride height looks factory, are you sure its been lowered? on my original 06 GT ford had painted dots on the springs and struts. As i seen recently a good idea to find the leak is to go round the engine with a small handheld butane torch turned on but not lit of course Engine will lift on the revs once you find it.

 

[Kyleag89]

Sorry its been awhile but Im back to working on the mustang.

My car is lowered and I actually found the part #s on the springs when I took them off. They are SR Performance 1.5" springs from American Muscle. I installed new SR performance struts and shocks as well as GT500 strut bearings. I got the camber to 1.2 degrees on both sides and the toe set to 1/16" toed IN. The car still pulls very slightly right but is most likely caused from DIY error is measuring. Now that I have everything I wanted to replace on the car I will go get my alignment.

 

[JC SSP]

Alignment is needed. If the pull continues then consider swapping the two front tires. If it drifts to left you might have a bad tire.

I have to ask… car ever wrecked?

 

[Kyleag89]

Alignment is needed. If the pull continues then consider swapping the two front tires. If it drifts to left you might have a bad tire.

I have to ask… car ever wrecked?

I don't know the history of the car so its a possibility. I can't find any evidence that its been in an accident however and I have inspected it all over. I will swap the tires now, I can't believe I haven't thought of that so thank you!