Stuck Rear Calipers

[LarryJM]

So my installer says my low mileage 2014 Mustang GT has one tight driver side rear caliper and one stuck passenger side rear caliper. They are not pistons but rather cork screws and they do have a tendency to stick. The result is the pads do not back away from the rotor when driving so the rotor gets hot in a few miles. Any ideas other then new calipers? I just had GT500 rear rotors and pads installed. The old rotors and pads had 15000 miles on them. The calipers were reused. It is possible they have been stuck for some time.

 

[Juice]

Could also be a sticking park brake cable.
If it is the calipers, just get a reman set from Rockauto or a local parts store.

 

[LarryJM]

Yes I ordered a set from Amazon today. They do not have a core charge. I would have used RockAuto but they have big core charges on every rear Mustang caliper.

 

[Juice]

Funny, I just got reman front calipers with brackets. (melted the boots on track) No core charge on them.

 

[LarryJM]

Yes fronts do not have a core charge. The backs do and the core charge is more then the caliper.

 

[MasterofDisaster]

You can try saving the calipers by cleaning the sliders and the slider holes. Pull the rubber boots and clean them out with an old tooth brush. A rifle barrel brush in a Dremel or a drill will clean up the slider hole in the bracket. The slider itself should clean up with a wire brush either on a bench grinder or a Dremel. Pack the hole with enough disk brake grease to ensure smooth operation.

An important thing to check is the alignment of the pin on the pad with the notch in the piston. If the pin is not in the notch, it will force the pad against the rotor.

If the pistons are stuck the caliper itself, that's a whole different story.

 

[xeninworx]

Pretty normal for rear calipers to do that. Happened a few times with my 06 Civic. Even the parking brake cables seized. One summer I changed one, then the next summer I had to change the other one. So annoying.

 

[LarryJM]

Well I have new calipers coming from Amazon with no core charge and new Rotor and Pads from RockAuto. Decided to redo the whole thing. Main reason, the back rotors are for race only so they are not protected from rust. The Raybestos part number for the race only is Ray 680990R and the street rotor is Ray 680990. The Race only ones were $15 each and the street version is $35 each. I also got new pads. The backs now will match the fronts of Ray 680497. So yes I will trash $60 worth of stuff. I should have replaced the back calipers in the first place. It might have been the real reason I thought the stock brakes were shitty in the first place. The fronts are working perfectly with new rotors pads and calipers. I could kick my self for not doing the same in the back. Even after several washes, no rust at all on the front rotors but lots of rust in the back.

 

[LarryJM]

The Fronts look great.

 

[Sledder]

Could also be a sticking park brake cable.

Definitely worth checking.

 

[Juice]

Definitely worth checking.

All it takes is a little water intrusion and its just a matter of time before the cable hangs. My car had a bad cable, and it was disconnected so I had only one side working.
But I got 2 good cables included with my 8.8, in went the cables with the rear. lol

 

[LarryJM]

New Calipers from Amazon arrived today. No core charge. They look great. The Rock Auto GT500 Raybestos rotor and pads are still in route. Both were ordered the same day. I should have never reused the old calipers.