Suggestions on valve train replacement?

[Anti]

Now that i have most of my bolt ons installed im considering cams too. I notice a solid ticking in my valve train on one bank when cold. I must be at operating temperature before any throttle application of half pedal or more if I don't want to hear it. So, would any of you recommend changing valve train components while changing the cams? If so, what has a good reputation that would help with any future power improvement changes whether I stayed NA or went SC? I understand how the valve train works, etc, but I am noob at taking one apart and what is considered good honestly.


2007 GT 105k miles

 

[RED09GT]

What year is your car again? How many miles?

 

[Anti]

Oh, duh. I updated the OP.

P.S. I need to see a color picture of your car. If I am not mistaken it is Torch Red, right? Are those gt350 wheels or something else? I am liking that look. lol

 

[RocketcarX]

Get the cams you like and build the valve train from the cam manufacture's recommendations, meaning use their recommended valve springs and phaser modifications. Add the Ford Racing roller followers and new lash adjusters. Done. You could do all of this without touching the timing chains and guides, or you could choose to address those things at that point, along with considering a high performance oil pump, since you're there .

 

[RED09GT]

Pics are in this thread and it is Dark Candy Apple Red
http://www.s197forum.com/threads/sve-r350-wheels.133577/

With 105,000 miles,
I would think of changing the chains and guides with that much noise and being a 2007, the noise could be a phaser. It seems that the phasers from 2008-up are more reliable.
It is really hard to diagnose valvetrain noise without being there in person.

 

[Anti]

Get the cams you like and build the valve train from the cam manufacture's recommendations, meaning use their recommended valve springs and phaser modifications. Add the Ford Racing roller followers and new lash adjusters. Done. You could do all of this without touching the timing chains and guides, or you could choose to address those things at that point, along with considering a high performance oil pump, since you're there .

Solid info. Thank you.

Pics are in this thread and it is Dark Candy Apple Red
http://www.s197forum.com/threads/sve-r350-wheels.133577/

With 105,000 miles,
I would think of changing the chains and guides with that much noise and being a 2007, the noise could be a phaser. It seems that the phasers from 2008-up are more reliable.
It is really hard to diagnose valvetrain noise without being there in person.

Yea, I tend to replace items if I have it apart already. For example when I installed my LT headers I swapped motor mounts, and when I installed the lw flywheel and stage 3 clutch I did the rear main seal and tail shaft seal.

I guess the best way I will be able to tell is pull the valve covers and run it to see. If I did all you guys suggested, have a good shop and tools, you think this could be done easily within a late friday night, saturday, and sunday morning? It is my daily after all.

 

[RocketcarX]

Solid info. Thank you.



Yea, I tend to replace items if I have it apart already. For example when I installed my LT headers I swapped motor mounts, and when I installed the lw flywheel and stage 3 clutch I did the rear main seal and tail shaft seal.

I guess the best way I will be able to tell is pull the valve covers and run it to see. If I did all you guys suggested, have a good shop and tools, you think this could be done easily within a late friday night, saturday, and sunday morning? It is my daily after all.

Without a doubt, the right environment and this can be done in one day, meaning not rushing, cleaning, all that good stuff. A day and a half if you're really taking your time.

 

[Anti]

Well, it seems finding the right cams is my only issue now. Truthfully, I am not sure which way to go with them. I want good power from them. Chances of me going forced induction soon are slim. Until I get a truck I doubt ill be replacing heads since I depend on the car. I just dont know what is too much cam.

 

[46addict]

The cams that claim a max operating range above 6500rpm is what I would see as too big. The hot rod cams have a 221/240 duration at .050" with a .470 lift on intake and exhaust and I feel it's perfect for street driving. I think a 235 intake and 240 exhaust duration with .500 lift will still be streetable. With my current set up, low end is still strong and it pulls hard all the way to redline. With aftermarket cams the tune becomes more important because the tuner needs to know how to manipulate the VCT system and injector timing to get the full benefit.

Also staying under .500 lift will allow you to keep the stock springs but it looks like you may be replacing them anyway.

 

[RocketcarX]

Well, it seems finding the right cams is my only issue now. Truthfully, I am not sure which way to go with them. I want good power from them. Chances of me going forced induction soon are slim. Until I get a truck I doubt ill be replacing heads since I depend on the car. I just dont know what is too much cam.

Ford Racing Hot Rod cams are what I would choose with that criteria, and if you do go with a supercharger they are actually made with that in mind too.
No spring changes or phaser mods required which frees you up money wise to do the matching Ford Racing followers and lash adjusters. It is def the time to consider new phasers, you are there and the older ones are a known problem.
These cams will maximize the stock engine and support whatever amount of bolt-ons you throw at it.

 

[RED09GT]

If it were me, I would do livernois 20 degree limiters, TFS-16213-24 valve springs and Comp cams 127400's or 127500's.

 

[tjm73]

Lift has nothing to do with being streetable. Duration, overlap and lobe separation matter more.

 

[Badd GT]

If it were me, I would do livernois 20 degree limiters, TFS-16213-24 valve springs and Comp cams 127400's or 127500's.

BINGO^^^^^^

 

[Anti]

If it were me, I would do livernois 20 degree limiters, TFS-16213-24 valve springs and Comp cams 127400's or 127500's.

What rockers would you suggest with that then? If i am going to do it, I wanna do it right. I don't want to hear the words "drive train issues" again. I think i'd go with the 127500 too.

 

[tjm73]

What rockers would you suggest with that then? If i am going to do it, I wanna do it right. I don't want to hear the words "drive train issues" again. I think i'd go with the 127500 too.

Do you mean follower? I don't think there are many choices. OE, GT500
(may be the same as 3V OE) and GT (as in the GT from 05-06)

 

[Anti]

Do you mean follower? I don't think there are many choices. OE, GT500
(may be the same as 3V OE) and GT (as in the GT from 05-06)

Yea, I wasn't thinking about it being an over head cam.

 

[46addict]

FRPP makes a set for the 3v. If you buy the GT500 ones you will be left with some extras and the 4v parts cost more. So aside from spending $3k on Jesel followers, I think FRPP is the only other option.

 

[o2sys]

Are frpp any different than what came in the car?

I know ford just sell some parts under their "performance" label but it's just the same thing sometimes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[46addict]

Yes FRPP follower is the same as factory OE. It says so in the description.

 

[Speedboosted]

If it were me, I would do livernois 20 degree limiters, TFS-16213-24 valve springs and Comp cams 127400's or 127500's.

Essentially this is exactly what I did, and extremely happy with the results. Car drives PERFECTLY and has more power everywhere. Actually gains midrange and a little low end with the 400s. Idle isn't all that choppy but sounds good with free flowing exhaust (aka louder). I put a bunch of mufflers on my car and it's hid most of the chop, but you can still hear a little.