sway bars, rear and wheel spacers

[Duke-Blue]

76 y/o guy ...I just changed out the my convertible base front sway bar with a whiteline kit. The installer said the rear would not fit. So a couple of questions? Is there a way to use the rear on the convertible? If, so how? If not, anybody want a deal?

If not, best replacement of links, bushings OR sway bar kit to tighten up the rear. Reasonably priced since the cost of the car is adding up. I added a Shelby strut brace in the trunk. One on the front under hood, OEM. I changed out the struts and shocks to KYB, not interested in lowering, speed humps and age.

All other suspension parts OEM. I want to keep this car and am willing to change out what is needed. Rural roads with pot holes and some mountain curves for fun ...What do your suggest? All paved road roading but I want as much tight cornering as possible with stock hight.

Also changed out 17 OEM tires to 18 235/50/18 Goodyear eagle all season tires on OEM chrome cragar style rims ( probably from a 2007 or so...)and have rubbing on front on Sharp turns, like in Parking lot, etc... Installed 1/8 spacers and still rubbing. Looks good but...

Do I need bigger spacers, if so thoughts? Tire and rim installers thought 1/8 would be enough and keep stud and thread enough for safety.I prefer to keep the rims and tires b/c wife brought as a Christmas gift, used rims and new tires.

Solutions?

Got some slight 'wiggle' and ' bounce' in the steering at high speeds but not excessive. Tight in curves.

At my age, this is prolly ' it' for me. Calendar says Old man, brain says young guy

Thanks for the help

 

[Juice]

Cornering is mostly in the tires. All season tires are not it. You want a tire between 200-300 treadwear rating. Lower the number, the stickier the tire.

 

[Sloane]

The coupe's rear Whiteline sway bar usually won't fit on a convertible, so the easiest way to tighten handling is to upgrade the OEM rear with polyurethane bushings and adjustable end links. For the rubbing, 1/8" spacers may be too small with 18" tires, so you could try 1/4" spacers if the studs allow or lightly roll the fenders to prevent contact. With the upgraded bushings and links, your car should corner nicely at stock height.

 

[Duke-Blue]

Thanks, will I have enough turns on the lug nuts for safety? It rubs the shock mounts, so says the mechanic.

 

[Robert Larimer]

76 y/o guy ...I just changed out the my convertible base front sway bar with a whiteline kit. The installer said the rear would not fit. So a couple of questions? Is there a way to use the rear on the convertible? If, so how? If not, anybody want a deal?

If not, best replacement of links, bushings OR sway bar kit to tighten up the rear. Reasonably priced since the cost of the car is adding up. I added a Shelby strut brace in the trunk. One on the front under hood, OEM. I changed out the struts and shocks to KYB, not interested in lowering, speed humps and age.

All other suspension parts OEM. I want to keep this car and am willing to change out what is needed. Rural roads with pot holes and some mountain curves for fun ...What do your suggest? All paved road roading but I want as much tight cornering as possible with stock hight.

Also changed out 17 OEM tires to 18 235/50/18 Goodyear eagle all season tires on OEM chrome cragar style rims ( probably from a 2007 or so...)and have rubbing on front on Sharp turns, like in Parking lot, etc... Installed 1/8 spacers and still rubbing. Looks good but...

Do I need bigger spacers, if so thoughts? Tire and rim installers thought 1/8 would be enough and keep stud and thread enough for safety.I prefer to keep the rims and tires b/c wife brought as a Christmas gift, used rims and new tires.

Solutions?

Got some slight 'wiggle' and ' bounce' in the steering at high speeds but not excessive. Tight in curves.

At my age, this is prolly ' it' for me. Calendar says Old man, brain says young guy

Thanks for the help

When you change from 17" to 18" wheels you need steering rack limiters to stop the rubbing. Here is the Ford one. They come stock on all Mustangs with wheels bigger than 17". You need one for each side of the rack. I would not use spacers unless your wheel is hitting the brake calipers. I am 73 BTW. If you want to wake up that 3.7 you need a MPT tune. A 3.31 rear axle really helps too. You will be amazed at the difference.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-steering-rack-limiter-2005-2014/p/HW2869/

 

[Duke-Blue]

Thanks. I'll check them out, Dealer have them or other source?

 

[Robert Larimer]

Thanks. I'll check them out, Dealer have them or other source?

I am not sure whether Ford still stocks them after a dozen years. I also found these that do not require tie rod removal to install.

https://slrspeed.com/products/s197-...8a66WtzTJnedgt1ZPn1pVcYrAwgBnneNzjZsAfzDBlM8d

 

[Duke-Blue]

Thanks, Wonder how many ended, could just add one at a time and check, I guess.

 

[Rubyred54]

Proud 71 year old owner of a 14 premium V6 vert. Have had a Whiteline rear anti-roll bar installed for 5+ years. No problems with the installation. Their website does not list different parts between the the coupe and the vert. Also have the Whiteline front sway bar. Works like a charm.

 

[Robert Larimer]

Thanks, Wonder how many ended, could just add one at a time and check, I guess.

I would start with 2 on each side and go from there. They need to be in pairs on both sides of the rack.

 

[Tombrochard]

I’ve got a 2011 v6 coupe and the number one thing I’d recommend (besides a strut tower brace if you don’t already have one) is sub frame connectors. BMR makes them go about $170 bucks when I bought them. Made the car a lot less “wiggly” over bumps. Big improvement

 

[Robert Larimer]

I’ve got a 2011 v6 coupe and the number one thing I’d recommend (besides a strut tower brace if you don’t already have one) is sub frame connectors. BMR makes them go about $170 bucks when I bought them. Made the car a lot less “wiggly” over bumps. Big improvement View attachment 113316

Interesting, I thought S197's chassis's were way stiffer than previous Mustangs. It is based on a Jaguar design.

 

[Duke-Blue]

thanks, got a tower brace on front and back

 

[JC SSP]

S197 are stiffer than SN95 and Fox, but just like the newer Mustangs S550 & S650 which are stiffer than ours, it's the advancement in engineering and materials. As always, there is room for improvement while sometimes sacrificing some increase in NVH.

I personally have put subframe connectors on all my Mustangs and several of my other cars too (custom fab). I like the structural rigidity and lack of flexing while cornering. Also, I believe they will protect you in a collision too. I don't mind the slight stiffness at all, but that's just me.

On my 05' GT I use the welded ladder style frame connector.

 

[Robert Larimer]

S197 are stiffer than SN95 and Fox, but just like the newer Mustangs S550 & S650 which are stiffer than ours, it's the advancement in engineering and materials. As always, there is room for improvement while sometimes sacrificing some increase in NVH.

I personally have put subframe connectors on all my Mustangs and several of my other cars too (custom fab). I like the structural rigidity and lack of flexing while cornering. Also, I believe they will protect you in a collision too. I don't mind the slight stiffness at all, but that's just me.

On my 05' GT I use the welded ladder style frame connector.

View attachment 113326View attachment 113324View attachment 113325View attachment 113328

Actually collision protection requires the chassis to crumple and absorb the shock instead of transferring it to the occupants.

 

[JC SSP]

F/R Bumpers and side impact beams serve a purpose too buddy.

 

[pass1over]

When you change from 17" to 18" wheels you need steering rack limiters to stop the rubbing. Here is the Ford one. They come stock on all Mustangs with wheels bigger than 17". You need one for each side of the rack. I would not use spacers unless your wheel is hitting the brake calipers. I am 73 BTW. If you want to wake up that 3.7 you need a MPT tune. A 3.31 rear axle really helps too. You will be amazed at the difference.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-steering-rack-limiter-2005-2014/p/HW2869/

I went from 18's to 20's on my car like 10 years ago and never changed/added these. No rubbing at full lock either. I saw these and always wondered, but never messed with it because I didn't experience an issue.

 

[Duke-Blue]

I am guessing the limiters are for 17 to 18. I rub on sharp turning. Wondering about changing out tie rod ends at the same time.

 

[Robert Larimer]

I went from 18's to 20's on my car like 10 years ago and never changed/added these. No rubbing at full lock either. I saw these and always wondered, but never messed with it because I didn't experience an issue.

You already have them if your car came with 18" or higher.

 

[Duke-Blue]

I am changing out the tie rods to gt which have the limiters in them. 140k on the car, so seemed like a better option. Also planning on adding frame bolt on bracing from dhr fabricating to keep the oem convertible bracing. Then just change out the bushings on oem sway bars.

Opinons? I have already schedule and ordered the tie rod ends but all else in in the planning stage

Thanks to all the help, this site is great for owners with limited experience with mustangs