T56 Magnum XL install on 5.0L

saud alzaabi

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I'm about to install a t56 xl Magnum on a 5.0L and was wondering who did the install as well and how did you guys wire up the Reverse solenoid and the other sensors...

Any input is apreciated.

Thanks.
 

cyclerick

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Most conversion kits come with the corresponding pigtails or plugs along with a speed conversion box. I didn't hook up the reverse lockout as its impossible to put it in reverse by mistake. You also don't need to hook up the skip shift. Did you also buy the shorter driveshaft?
 

saud alzaabi

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Thing is i bought it from dd performance and nothing hooks up. Any diagrams ?
 

BruceH

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Most conversion kits come with the corresponding pigtails or plugs along with a speed conversion box. I didn't hook up the reverse lockout as its impossible to put it in reverse by mistake. You also don't need to hook up the skip shift. Did you also buy the shorter driveshaft?

That's why the solenoid is there. To make getting into reverse easier. Agree it's not necessary unless the shifter is on the weak side, I would doubt that's the case with the XL.
 

DrTriton

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I used a GT500 trans harness and had the cal changed to enable the lockout solenoid. Works like factory.
 

kerrynzl

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If anybody is having any drama with the reverse lockout solenoid [which is normally operated by the ECU under a certain MPH]

The normal bypass method is to use power from the brake light, but in Road Racing [my passion] when downshifting from 6th to 5th while hard on the brakes can cause you to Money Shift into reverse.

The other method is to cut the spring in the lockout solenoid.

Over the weekend I helped do a T56 swap into a friends 55 Chevy racecar and we came up with a novel solution.

Firstly the solenoid is only a 2 wire electromagnet that only draws 1amp. It doesn't care which wire is + or -.

We put a brake light switch on the clutch pedal and ran a wire from 12V to the switch and from the switch to the solenoid.
From the solenoid we ran a wire to a RPM activated switch then to ground.

The RPM switch was set at 2000 RPM for 4 cylinders which equals 1000 RPM for a V8 [this was the lowest RPM module we had laying around]
The RPM switch was wired so it is normally closed and the circuit "opens" above the set RPM breaking the circuit.

without pressing the clutch pedal there is no 12v to the solenoid, and above 1000 RPM there is no ground from the solenoid. This method allows for Downshifting on the track without money shifting.
The engine can idle normally without the solenoid being activated until the clutch is used.

It is Cheap compared to those computerised adaptor modules. And is easy for those Carb and Distributor guys.
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cgornowich

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I wonder if the OP has finished what he started in 2014...

But here goes: When I did mine I used this:

https://www.wirebarn.com/T56--TR6060-Reverse-Lockout-Control-Module_p_470.html

I know it's $100, but it works like the factory intended. Cutting out the springs seems silly (or dangerous) and that whole brake light trick sounds like big brother is making sure I don't drive through a 7-11 store front.

On a side note, most dual disc clutches add harmonics and make noise, if you're in Northern Virginia I'll demonstrate it for you....
 

travelers

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That's the same one I used. Works great.

I have the twin disc RST and it does have some vibration around 1600 to 1900 or so. First, second, fifth and sixth, you don't really notice it. But third and forth you really do so in those 2 gears I try and stay above 2000 rpms. The rest of the time it's ok.
 

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