The numbers are in! (Brenspeed B326 + Whipple)

HellsBells

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620hp / 677tq

(don't mind the dip at 5200, the timing table had some weirdness there but it was a quick fix)

Brenspeed B326, Anderson F-53 Cams, Anderson Valve Springs, Whipple 2.3L, Methanol Injection



Now that's all done. Does anyone (especially you guys out there that tune cars) know how to fix that lean spike on tip in? It does it on every pull and you can feel it on the street. Sometimes it's richer than the graph above depending on how you get on the throttle, but it's always lean right on tip in. If any tuners out there can help me or would like to take a look, I have the datalogs I can email you guys. Thanks in advance! Or if you know which function in the ECM could be modified to fix it, that would be great too.
 
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HitandRunDriver

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Sweet numbers, I can't help your lean spike but I can drool and want a supercharger just fine :D. How did you feel about the power it put down
 

HellsBells

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Check the time delay from closed to open loop

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

We dropped that from the stock 1ms to .5ms and it made no difference whatsoever.

Sweet numbers, I can't help your lean spike but I can drool and want a supercharger just fine :D. How did you feel about the power it put down

The HP is right about spot on what I expected. When it gets some heat in it, it shows closer to 605-608 on the dyno. The torque is way more than I anticipated, did not even think about the extra cubes in there but that makes sense. As far as driving it, this thing is stupid. 45-100mph goes by in the blink of an eye. I cannot imagine what the 800+ hp cars on here feel like.
 

toorbeenee

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i wont worry about the A/F spike on that 1500~2000, i think the car is just picking up boost(you can see that when boost picked up the A/F went straight to 11) , but i love how your A/F ratio is almost like a flat line on the 11, that is a good tuner right there
 

HellsBells

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i wont worry about the A/F spike on that 1500~2000, i think the car is just picking up boost(you can see that when boost picked up the A/F went straight to 11) , but i love how your A/F ratio is almost like a flat line on the 11, that is a good tuner right there

Thanks man, my tuner (Chris @ MPE Racing, mperacing.com) is super anal about this stuff--which is why I have him tune my car (that, and he's been doing it for almost 20 years). He's just never happy unless everything is perfect. I didn't care much for the tip in but we've been seeing it a lot with my car, even before this motor build. But in the end, it really bugs him more than it bugs me and I'd like to see it worked out. He thinks it's definitely not normal and that there's gotta be something we can tweak to fix it.

Also, the lean tip in is bad enough to where I can feel it when I drive it. Car feels like it's got no power for a split second on tip in.
 

S197gt07

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So glad its done man.

When am i getting a ride!? :crazy:

Edit:
Found this from VaporTrails on here:
I had that same issue. The car would buck and hesitate when the car was cold; lean on tip in then rich on decel. I put the old injectors back in after 4 tune revisions all sucked and the car ran perfectly again. This was the point I gave up on my old tuner.

A good tuner should be able to correct the drivability. The GT500 injectors have a 4-valve spray pattern (wide), so the amount of fuel puddling (Tau) on port walls changes.

What I think was happening was more fuel was ending up on the port walls, and when cold, the evaporation rate is low. So, on pressing the go pedal, there was not enough fuel atomizing, creating a lean condition and hesitation. Once you lift, after a short delay, that fuel on the port walls evaporates and you get a rich condition.

The evaporation rate increases when the manifold is hot and the condition gets better or disappears completely.

Suffice to say that tuning with GT500 injectors and the whipple manifold is somewhat more difficult than using the Ford GT injectors that came with the kit.

But it seems it happens with you all the time, but I keep finding things relating to the injectors causing the isssue...
 
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Swarzkopf

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Nice numbers!

Stupid question: Does the lean condition at tip-in occur at any beginning RPM, or only at a certain area?
 

HellsBells

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Thanks everyone!

So glad its done man.

When am i getting a ride!? :crazy:

Edit:
Found this from VaporTrails on here:


But it seems it happens with you all the time, but I keep finding things relating to the injectors causing the isssue...

I don't think it's that, because it did it with the 39# injectors too, just not as bad but it was still there.

Nice numbers!

Stupid question: Does the lean condition at tip-in occur at any beginning RPM, or only at a certain area?

That's a good question. I'll have to look at my datalogs and see, I have a dyno run of the car just being driven normally. From my street driving, I would say it happens at any RPM. When I upshift, clutch out, and get on the gas, it takes a split second to pick up because it stumbles lean.



Also: my clutch makes a churning/grinding noise at idle that you can hear from inside the car, but only when the clutch pedal is out (if you push it in, it goes away). Throwout bearing maybe? Anyone know if this is just going to get worse? I remember it did it on my stock car but it wasn't this loud. I run the McLeod RXT now.
 

S197gt07

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Maybe it has something to do with the fuel pumps?

Something like they don't have the voltage to supply the demand at tip in?

Tossing out ideas...
 

HellsBells

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Maybe it has something to do with the fuel pumps?

Something like they don't have the voltage to supply the demand at tip in?

Tossing out ideas...

The fuel pressure isn't dropping anymore though, so it's pretty consistent. We've ruled out just about all the parts and are pretty sure it's in the tune.

There is a value that smoothes the transition from open to closed loop, I can't for the life of me remember the name of it in the Advantage III software. But basically, it sounds like if we had a function like this but the other way around (to smooth out the transition from closed to open), that would be money.

Hoping Lito chimes in...
 

46Tbird

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Dude, those are awesome numbers, congrats.
Also: my clutch makes a churning/grinding noise at idle that you can hear from inside the car, but only when the clutch pedal is out (if you push it in, it goes away). Throwout bearing maybe?
Definitely sounds like a throwout bearing to me. But really, anything that spins can make that noise and have it go away when pressure is applied to the clutch (pilot bearing/bushing, input shaft bearing, etc). It could even be incorrect clearance/preload where the TO bearing meets the pressure plate.

But my guess is same as yours, TOB may be headed out.
 

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