Thinking about attempting this with my 2012 GT Premium

[WILECYOT]

Yes, but the UCA does the same thing. You're adjusting the angle by lengthening or shortening a link. Doesn't matter if you're changing it at the top or bottom, you just have two to worry about rather than one. One perk is LCA's are much easier to get to than the UCA. If you have all three adjustable links (which you will have if you go with spherical bearings), then you can set your pinion angle and fore-aft axle location independently (to an extent, of course).





My LCA brackets threw my rear axle off, one axle was 5/8" closer to the frame than the other (I'm not the only person who encountered this, it's just a caveat of aftermarket parts as I am sure you know). Adjustable LCA's allowed me to square it back up. I was able to get it nuts on with a simple tape measure, it's not rocket science (verified on a laser alignment machine while I had it in getting weighted, was off .05 degrees.."We're not touching it!").

If your alignment shop can't get your axle squared up with adjustable LCA's, run far far away because they're morons. That said, with some patience, a DIY alignment is not hard on these cars; just a bit tedious the first couple times. Maybe plan on having it checked afterwards to confirm your measurements and reassure yourself.

Goddamnit, you reeled me back in..

Beer's on me.

Don't have an alignment shop here in Charlotte, I'm still new to this city. I do most things myself as far as installs and squaring things up initially anyway but the biggest thing I can't get over, in your case at least, is if the relocation brackets move the mounting location, then you compensate with the shortening of one side of the LCA's, isn't that going to throw off the arc in which your axle moves... essentially at ride height it's dead ass one but during a bump the side with the shorter LCA is going to move in a different arc than the outside causing the axle to not be perfectly square as it was before right?

 

[DusterRT]

Technically? Yes. But even my case, which is worse than the others I've heard of, it didn't take much to make up even that 5/8", maybe a couple turns at the control arms (since the LCA's are inboard of the hubs, it took less than 5/8" adjustment at the arms to correct everything, we're probably talking 1/4" or so at each arm). Given the length of them, it's not a huge impact to geometry. It was that, or slot out the mounting holes on the brackets; no thanks! No issues at the track..many a roundel were made my bitch and obviously I lived to tell the tale. But maybe I am just that awesome.

 

[Mach2burnout]

Oh good grief...

Yeah I think I will leave after all. Best advice I can muster...buy everything that's red in the BMR catalog, and anything that attaches with double sided tape from American Muscle. Cheers.

Yeah I see there more than one jerk here!!! Its ok to disagree with someone without the BS!!
Your right it can be but for simplicity of adj I'd rather adj 1 bar that cannot cause Mis alignment than 2 that possibly can!! Sorry I misspoke I forgot I was in the midst of a bunch of engineers where you don't dare do that or you'll get flamed. I have a lot if experience with the 3 bar suspension however a different application. In my experience and opinion it is easier to adj at the uca even if you have to jack the car up to do so!!

Also I reiterate that this IMO!!!!!

 

[DusterRT]

Stating that the LCA can't adjust the pinion angle wasn't an opinion, that was blatant misinformation. Also, I prefer to be called a prick. IMO.

 

[WILECYOT]

Stating that the LCA can't adjust the pinion angle wasn't an opinion, that was blatant misinformation. Also, I prefer to be called a prick. IMO.

We're gonna get along after all. Thank ya P. Rick

 

[Mach2burnout]

Stating that the LCA can't adjust the pinion angle wasn't an opinion, that was blatant misinformation. Also, I prefer to be called a prick. IMO.

Your right it was mis information! I agree! I was trying to steer him way from doing it that way is all!!

But to disagree with me didn't mean to had to go into full "prick" mode!

 

[DusterRT]

Won't disagree. My face and palm met over that one, that typically engages prick-rolling mode (see what I did there?).

So are we ready for that group hug then I take it?

 

[WILECYOT]

Did someone say circle jerk?

 

[Mach2burnout]

Did someone say circle jerk?

Ok I'm out on that one!!! Lol!!!

 

[WILECYOT]

Ok I'm out on that one!!! Lol!!!

No, wait, ookie cookie then?

 

[Morris]

Oh man this thread has taken a turn, almost sounds like I'm at work now.

Uh, all I mean by that is that we can be crude not that I'm a fluffer or anything.

 

[fivehunsky]

Why the fuck do these stupid threads keep getting started or merged into the drifting area? We arent all fucking retards like this kid. Quit putting retarded threads in here.

Jesus

 

[WILECYOT]

I dunno guy, maybe for the same reason you had a thread in the drift area.

Honestly you need to chill the hell out, this section isn't devoted SOLELY to you.

And as for me being a retard, hardly. But I don't have anything to prove to you.

 

[fivehunsky]

I have a thread in the Drifting forum to promote drifting. Yours is doing quite the opposite.

I know this forum is not devoted to me alone. But, if you come and make a post in it asking for opinions then immediately start acting like a giant dick it makes the rest of the forum dislike drifting even more. So, it actually does effect me. Especially since I actually need sponsors to compete and keep my car at the level it runs at.

You may be a very smart person when it comes to I.Q. but your people skills are lacking from what I can tell in this thread.

Anyway, if you would actually like setup advice I can offer it. I have been running my car for two years now and it works very well.

 

[WILECYOT]

I'm not hindering drifting in any way shape or form. You all really need to lay off the whole I have an attitude mess. You all were the ones attacking me. I argued my position, provided VALID proof to my claims and everyone else just played the blame game saying I have an attitude and am acting like a dick. Jeeze....

As for my people skills.... it's the fucking internet. You can't judge my people skills from what I type. I'm sorry I post rebuttals to false information. Ever stumbled upon a misleading thread where you read through the first few posts, think you have it figured out what you need to do in relation to a technical topic, go to do it on your own and run into a HUGE problem, go back to said thread, read through and find out the first page or so was total BS? Yeah, I hated when that happened so I'm going to try to keep it from happening to other people. I'll be humble when I honestly don't have a clue but when someone else comes in throwing there gut around because they have more posts than me or a more "expensive" (and for that fact alone clearly better) setup than I do, don't expect me to just sit back quietely. I guess what I originally posted about wanting opinions on setups in my mind meant I wanted factual information. Sorry for the ambiguity.



Back on topic and off the soap box...

As for suspension advice, I have coilovers now and am looking at LCA's now. A friend of mine went to some race in Florida where there were a lot of teams running track prepped Boss 302s and other race prepped mustangs, and granted they were setup to stick the teams were running poly LCAs instead of sphericals and they weren't adjustable. In my head sphericals seems like the better performing option but will they truly be overkill? I had full adjustable arms (except for the LCAs) on my 240 and loved them. They all had heim joints and were never a noise issue. I also had Solid subframe bushings so if there was going to be any noise issue I feel like I would have experienced it right? My exhaust wasn't terribly loud but I never noticed any drivetrain "whine" that many warned me of. I know on my mustang right now I do notice some whine in the system but it isn't unbearable. I have stock exhaust and only hear it when the radio is off or muted essentially.

Anyway good luck with the sponsors, I can understand your needs.

 

[WILECYOT]

If any of that comes off as me being cocky or a dick I apologize. I'm SERIOUSLY not trying to be or sound like one. I want discussion not flaming.

 

[Morris]

Your are a sorry Dick..........................







Just kidding, LOL, I couldn't help it. I'm amazed that this thread made it, I thought it was doomed for a bit there.

 

[DRock]

As for suspension advice, I have coilovers now and am looking at LCA's now. A friend of mine went to some race in Florida where there were a lot of teams running track prepped Boss 302s and other race prepped mustangs, and granted they were setup to stick the teams were running poly LCAs instead of sphericals and they weren't adjustable. In my head sphericals seems like the better performing option but will they truly be overkill? I had full adjustable arms (except for the LCAs) on my 240 and loved them. They all had heim joints and were never a noise issue. I also had Solid subframe bushings so if there was going to be any noise issue I feel like I would have experienced it right? My exhaust wasn't terribly loud but I never noticed any drivetrain "whine" that many warned me of. I know on my mustang right now I do notice some whine in the system but it isn't unbearable. I have stock exhaust and only hear it when the radio is off or muted essentially.

ok so i am going to try and help you here since you keep asking questions and no one that actually has heim joints has really commented for you.

I have BMR pol/rod end non-adjustable LCA's. They did add a little bit of noise. Kinda like gear whine really based on how fast im going. Add Relocation bracket from BMR made no difference in noise.

When I installed my Coilovers i put on a BMR Rodended PHB and their brace and didnt notice any increase in noise. The PHB is going to be replaced with a Fays 2 sometime soon here anyways.

I am about to go and do my UCA/Mount and the axle bushing. I have tthe steeda rod ended axle bushing and a poly UCA. The reason is that when the heim joints are mounted straight to the body side of the car it adds ALOT of noise, especially a DD might be a little much. The poly upper and rod ended axle bushing lets it articulate while still being quieter.

Ultimately you just want the axle to articulate more and when you have heim joints on the axle side but still poly on the body side you get that movement that you really need without giving up that much noise

A good friend of mine has a 240 that we have been working on and I can tell you rod ends in that car and on this car are not the same noise level. In your quote i highlighted the noise that I get that gets louder when you add heim joints.

I believe that the BOSS 302 on some kind of racier tires did willow springs (the closest track to me) in 1:32 or something like that with a professional driver. I did the same track in 1:48 with coilovers 20's PHB, RELO BRKTS, AND LCA's. That is with a BONE STOCK 09 GT motor too. I have my goals set high though lol

Derek

 

[foolio2k4]

damn what the fuck just happened. This thread is tripping me out.

How are the D2s so far.

I havent heard of anyone buying those coilovers. Curious to hear how they are.

 

[WILECYOT]

ok so i am going to try and help you here since you keep asking questions and no one that actually has heim joints has really commented for you.

I have BMR pol/rod end non-adjustable LCA's. They did add a little bit of noise. Kinda like gear whine really based on how fast im going. Add Relocation bracket from BMR made no difference in noise.

When I installed my Coilovers i put on a BMR Rodended PHB and their brace and didnt notice any increase in noise. The PHB is going to be replaced with a Fays 2 sometime soon here anyways.

I am about to go and do my UCA/Mount and the axle bushing. I have tthe steeda rod ended axle bushing and a poly UCA. The reason is that when the heim joints are mounted straight to the body side of the car it adds ALOT of noise, especially a DD might be a little much. The poly upper and rod ended axle bushing lets it articulate while still being quieter.

Ultimately you just want the axle to articulate more and when you have heim joints on the axle side but still poly on the body side you get that movement that you really need without giving up that much noise

A good friend of mine has a 240 that we have been working on and I can tell you rod ends in that car and on this car are not the same noise level. In your quote i highlighted the noise that I get that gets louder when you add heim joints.

I believe that the BOSS 302 on some kind of racier tires did willow springs (the closest track to me) in 1:32 or something like that with a professional driver. I did the same track in 1:48 with coilovers 20's PHB, RELO BRKTS, AND LCA's. That is with a BONE STOCK 09 GT motor too. I have my goals set high though lol

Derek

DRock,

Great info. I'm thinking of going Heim PHB and heim / poly adjustable LCAs and poly adjustable UCA.

damn what the fuck just happened. This thread is tripping me out.

How are the D2s so far.

I havent heard of anyone buying those coilovers. Curious to hear how they are.

I like them. Installation was simple, instructions aren't the best but I can walk anyone through it. First time you install either a front or rear the other side goes much faster. Leveling the car takes longer than the installation. Finally got the dampers dialed in, I like them on the firm side.