This is how you get a coyote installed for $5000.00 or less

Dino Dino Bambino

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Compression test - I turned it by hand and it felt "normal". Swapped plugs, old ones looked fine. Oil was Ok. Oil pressure was "tested" after first start, I installed a gauge. I was going to pull the pan, and bearing caps... That never happened. lol

If the hot idle oil pressure was within spec, it's unlikely there'd be any significant wear in the rod/main bearings or in the oil pump.
Turning the engine manually, checking the plugs, checking the oil color and quality on the dipstick (or alternatively remove the oil filter), and removing the oil filler cap to inspect under the valve cover will at least lessen the chances of you ending up with a duff engine if you don't have compression/oil pressure gauges handy.
 

Juice

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If the hot idle oil pressure was within spec, it's unlikely there'd be any significant wear in the rod/main bearings or in the oil pump.
Turning the engine manually, checking the plugs, checking the oil color and quality on the dipstick (or alternatively remove the oil filter), and removing the oil filler cap to inspect under the valve cover will at least lessen the chances of you ending up with a duff engine if you don't have compression/oil pressure gauges handy.
Agreed, but I had a 30 day warranty on the engine, so get it in there and running ASAP. Mode 6 data will pick up any issues brewing. ;)
 

07gts197

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Op do you have any pictures of your car or videos of it running?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

race4food

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no video yet. still have a few things to tweak before startup. And Juice just GFYS, I honestly do not care about your OPINION anymore. You can replicate my steps or not.
 

race4food

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178869517_507502247100753_4309677645617287418_n.png
 

race4food

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I posted for the others who requested the info. If you can’t see that’s it doesn’t take $2000 for headers and a clutch you have an issue.
upload_2021-4-26_7-26-17.jpeg

upload_2021-4-26_7-27-40.jpeg
 

eighty6gt

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Compression test - I turned it by hand and it felt "normal". Swapped plugs, old ones looked fine. Oil was Ok, just changed it. Oil pressure was "tested" after first start, I installed a gauge on the pillar pod (oil press, temp, and WB)
I was going to pull the pan, and bearing caps to inspect... That never happened. lol
Ps: a WB is totally unnecessary on a coyote.


if it spins it wins.
 

Juice

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I posted for the others who requested the info. If you can’t see that’s it doesn’t take $2000 for headers and a clutch you have an issue.
View attachment 77624

View attachment 77625
Well, that is still not a receipt. Whatever.
BTW, did you figure out why you can't program PATS yet?
It is because PATS is in the cluster, and you did not use a matching year cluster with your PCM.
You are welcome.
 

race4food

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actually if PATS was in the cluster then when I put in a GT500 cluster last year then the car would not have run. So no still having the issue.
 

race4food

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actually if PATS was in the cluster then when I put in a GT500 cluster last year then the car would not have run. So no still having the issue.
I do appreciate the help, but are you sure its not just the sensor in the cluster?
 

Juice

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It is not a sensor. The key codes are stored in the cluster, if the cluster reads a programmed key, it lets the pcm fire the engine. No programmed key, no start.
 

race4food

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So important discovery. Using either the stock original cluster or the GT500 cluster and the Ford IDS software we were still not able to connect to the PATS.
We were able to update the EEC, and program it with the chassis VIN number. So it is to send off to PBH to have the PATS wiped and see where that takes us.

Juice, you used the crate6 strategy, correct? So all emissions, PATS are off. Are the SRS and restraint modules off as well?
 

race4food

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If the key idea are in the cluster why was I able to just pop in a 07 gt500 cluster and have no issues?
We are missing something.
Honestly Juice not trying to be a pain just fix things
 

Juice

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Yea, you are missing the fact that an 07 cluster works with 05-09 pcm. For a.coyote pcm you need a coyote cluster. This info is all over the internet. This what I told you a few posts back. And you came back with "installed a GT500 cluster and it worked before"- with a stock 4.6.

All my SRS is intact and functional. What the SRS reads over the can Im not sure, I didnt have to dig into it. But Im fairly certain that vehicle speed is used. So, if the speedo works, (gen 1 pcm) SRS gets a speed signal.

No idea how the Crate6 comes default, but ford told me "not emission certified".
 
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1950StangJump$

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Lots of hate on this threat, LOL. Reminds me of the old days on this forum (2010ish).

But, I'll say this . . . I don't get all the love for the Coyote swaps if you already own a 3V. Dollar to HP, it rarely makes sense.

-Want 450RWHP? Better off just to boost your 3V then to do a Coyote Gen 1 swap and then try to maximize bolt-ons (and probably still only get 400ish).

-Want 450RWHP-650RWHP? Better off building/boosting a 3V then swapping and boosting a Gen 1 Coyote. Roughly the same cost and far less trouble.

-Want 650-850? Build big and boost big the 3V rather than swap, BUILD, and boost a Coyote Gen 1, or swap, change timing components, and boost a Gen 2. Doesn't make cost sense with the Gen 1 and the Gen 2 option is a PITA.

It's only if you want 850+ at the wheels that the Coyote swap starts to make sense. By then, you're talking BIG $$ and a lot of trouble, especially if you want working gauges, A/C, etc.

And before you say it . . . all of this assumes you want a new or nearly new condition Coyote to go along with your rebuilt 3V. I don't care if you have access to a Coyote beater from your cousin.
 

Juice

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Lots of hate on this threat, LOL. Reminds me of the old days on this forum (2010ish).

But, I'll say this . . . I don't get all the love for the Coyote swaps if you already own a 3V. Dollar to HP, it rarely makes sense.

-Want 450RWHP? Better off just to boost your 3V then to do a Coyote Gen 1 swap and then try to maximize bolt-ons (and probably still only get 400ish).

-Want 450RWHP-650RWHP? Better off building/boosting a 3V then swapping and boosting a Gen 1 Coyote. Roughly the same cost and far less trouble.

-Want 650-850? Build big and boost big the 3V rather than swap, BUILD, and boost a Coyote Gen 1, or swap, change timing components, and boost a Gen 2. Doesn't make cost sense with the Gen 1 and the Gen 2 option is a PITA.

It's only if you want 850+ at the wheels that the Coyote swap starts to make sense. By then, you're talking BIG $$ and a lot of trouble, especially if you want working gauges, A/C, etc.

And before you say it . . . all of this assumes you want a new or nearly new condition Coyote to go along with your rebuilt 3V. I don't care if you have access to a Coyote beater from your cousin.
So what would you do if you owned a v6 s197 that needed engine or trans work? And planned to use the car for HPDE events where reliability trumps HP?
The coyote is a huge technological improvement over a 3v. Sure, a 3v swap into a v6 would be plug&play. But where is the challange in that?
As for the hate, I am not hating. Race4food spent more than 5 grand even if he dont believe it himself. But I already said "whatever" and moved on.
Any other questions sir?
 

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