Try this again.. Any help would be great

08MustangDude

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Hmmm, never heard of a dynotune without use of a Flash tuner (SCT, Diablo, Etc.)
You can take your car in to be Dyno'd, then with those parameters either
they will flash the ECU, or you send it to be flashed. There are plenty
pull and send flash services. You don't need a tuner if you have a good
PC package that will allow you to simply write the ECU. Volkswagen
has MPPS, and Galeto, that allow you to tune on the fly, dump, modify,
then write. I am sure there are other packages for other cars that
allow similar use.

That's what i was thinking about doing if i replace the whole throttle body just get the 55mm... So a faulty actuator with the throttle body can cause a no start at all? An if i replace it my car should fire right up?
It should still start and idle, unless the TPS is so bad it's sending a WOT
reading at idle, or other way too far open reading at idle. It should still
attempt to run and then stall. Are you sure it's not a PATS issue, for
the no start?
 
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You can take your car in to be Dyno'd, then with those parameters either
they will flash the ECU, or you send it to be flashed. There are plenty
pull and send flash services. You don't need a tuner if you have a good
PC package that will allow you to simply write the ECU. Volkswagen
has MPPS, and Galeto, that allow you to tune on the fly, dump, modify,
then write. I am sure there are other packages for other cars that
allow similar use.


It should still start and idle, unless the TPS is so bad it's sending a WOT
reading at idle, or other way too far open reading at idle. It should still
attempt to run and then stall. Are you sure it's not a PATS issue, for
the no start?
PATS issue? Could you explain that a little more please...
 
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Also even if my throttle body is stuck open.. shouldn't the car still try to start an run?
 

DiMora

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You can take your car in to be Dyno'd, then with those parameters either
they will flash the ECU, or you send it to be flashed. There are plenty
pull and send flash services. You don't need a tuner if you have a good
PC package that will allow you to simply write the ECU. Volkswagen
has MPPS, and Galeto, that allow you to tune on the fly, dump, modify,
then write. I am sure there are other packages for other cars that
allow similar use.

I know Roush does that; I've just never heard of anyone else using anything other than a hand-held tuner. I don't think I'd like that...it's nice to plug in my SCT and do real-time datalogging when I have an issue.
 
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Does the throttle body butterflys open up you go to crank the car over, or are they supossed to stay closed? I took my air intake tube of to crank the car over, a few times to watch the butterflys an they only open up fully when i just turn the key over an press down on the gas pedal. But when im cranking the car over an pressing on the gas they hardly even open?? What would be causing this the motor actuator or possibly the throttle position sensor? But like i said they do fully open when i turn the key over an just press on the gas... Or is this normal?
 

Hawgman

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Just a dumb thought. Have you checked to see if you need to reset the fuel pump shutoff that is located in the drivers foot well?
 

Lime1Gt

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Have you tried switching the PCM and Fuel Pump relays in the engine fuse box with similar numbered relays from other circuits in the box?

How would the MAF get hot enough to deform? Possible short??
 

Heavyweight champ

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Natedog
Same issue I had on my old 05 Mustang.
I took it to the dealer and receive a call from service stating it's my fuel pump,
That's not it, I get a 2nd call and they stated that my has tank is full of sludge and debris, nope that's not it either, I get a 3rd call and now it's the fuel filter, nope that's not it either, i get a 4th call, it's my fuel rails full of sludge, nope that's not it, i get a 5th call, it's my injectors. Now we'r are 3 days in and a $2000 bill. I told thre dealer I'm not paying for all the things that were changed because the Technician didn't know what was wrong so he just started changing parts until it would start and run. Needless to day it was fixed and i had no more issues with it. I sold the car a couple months after the repair so I dont know if any issues returned. I normally repair all my Mustangs myself however I could not figure out why it would run for a fw second then die, it got to the point that it then wouldn't even start. This is a bunch of worthless information but it was my experience with the same issue that you have.
 
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Natedog
Same issue I had on my old 05 Mustang.
I took it to the dealer and receive a call from service stating it's my fuel pump,
That's not it, I get a 2nd call and they stated that my has tank is full of sludge and debris, nope that's not it either, I get a 3rd call and now it's the fuel filter, nope that's not it either, i get a 4th call, it's my fuel rails full of sludge, nope that's not it, i get a 5th call, it's my injectors. Now we'r are 3 days in and a $2000 bill. I told thre dealer I'm not paying for all the things that were changed because the Technician didn't know what was wrong so he just started changing parts until it would start and run. Needless to day it was fixed and i had no more issues with it. I sold the car a couple months after the repair so I dont know if any issues returned. I normally repair all my Mustangs myself however I could not figure out why it would run for a fw second then die, it got to the point that it then wouldn't even start. This is a bunch of worthless information but it was my experience with the same issue that you have.
So was it your injectors the whole time or something completely different?
 
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Just a dumb thought. Have you checked to see if you need to reset the fuel pump shutoff that is located in the drivers foot well?
yes i did that was not it either! Its never something simple lol..
 
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Have you tried switching the PCM and Fuel Pump relays in the engine fuse box with similar numbered relays from other circuits in the box?

How would the MAF get hot enough to deform? Possible short??
no i havent messed with the pcm relay, but i did unhook my fuel pump relay an i know thats working properly..
 

08MustangDude

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Also even if my throttle body is stuck open.. shouldn't the car still try to start an run?
If the TB is stuck wide open, no, way too much air, it will not start; will crank,
but will not start. I used to test that with cable driven EFI systems. I would
floor the pedal, and then crank the motor, it would crank, but would not
start till I backed off the pedal.

PATS is the immobilizer...


Does the throttle body butterflys open up you go to crank the car over, or are they supossed to stay closed? I took my air intake tube of to crank the car over, a few times to watch the butterflys an they only open up fully when i just turn the key over an press down on the gas pedal. But when im cranking the car over an pressing on the gas they hardly even open?? What would be causing this the motor actuator or possibly the throttle position sensor? But like i said they do fully open when i turn the key over an just press on the gas... Or is this normal?
Throttle plate barely moves on idle. The safety feature new drive-by-wire cars
have is you can't WOT while cranking the motor. The ECU over-rides the
position when cranking. On my mustang, I can floor it, and it starts up, then
revs if I stay on the pedal once it has started... Not sure if these have an air idle
control valve...

If you can key on, run position, and see the throttle plate(s) move when you
use the fuel pedal, then it's not that. You still have a TPS though. Car will
run without the MAF, mine does, just shifts bad, as I said.

So, if the TB works, you move on to TPS, or fuel delivery.
 
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08MustangDude

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I know Roush does that; I've just never heard of anyone else using anything other than a hand-held tuner. I don't think I'd like that...it's nice to plug in my SCT and do real-time datalogging when I have an issue.
We send out MOPAR ECUs for flashing... Got one back once, and the
pickup ran like crap. My boss thought I did not check the plug gaps, but
it was? ECU was programmed for a throttle cable, not drive-by-wire...

The place I work part time, we send all the ECUs out for tuning, no hand-held...
 
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If the TB is stuck wide open, no, way too much air, it will not start; will crank,
but will not start. I used to test that with cable driven EFI systems. I would
floor the pedal, and then crank the motor, it would crank, but would not
start till I backed off the pedal.

PATS is the immobilizer...



Throttle plate barely moves on idle. The safety feature new drive-by-wire cars
have is you can't WOT while cranking the motor. The ECU over-rides the
position when cranking. On my mustang, I can floor it, and it starts up, then
revs if I stay on the pedal once it has started... Not sure if these have an air idle
control valve...

If you can key on, run position, and see the throttle plate(s) move when you
use the fuel pedal, then it's not that. You still have a TPS though. Car will
run without the MAF, mine does, just shifts bad, as I said.

So, if the TB works, you move on to TPS, or fuel delivery.
Well are the throttle plates supposed to stay closed while trying to turn the motor over?
 
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So basically my throttle actuator is good then, an is working like it should i dont understand why it makes such a weird noise though... An even if i crank the car over an press on the gas they are not even opening half way shouldn't they fully open?
 

Badd GT

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Idk, by the time you put your air intake back on it might have evaporated, but it can’t hurt
 

01yellerCobra

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I know Roush does that; I've just never heard of anyone else using anything other than a hand-held tuner. I don't think I'd like that...it's nice to plug in my SCT and do real-time datalogging when I have an issue.

I'm pretty sure HP Tuners is the same way. They flash straight to the ECU.
 

08MustangDude

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So basically my throttle actuator is good then, an is working like it should i dont understand why it makes such a weird noise though... An even if i crank the car over an press on the gas they are not even opening half way shouldn't they fully open?
The plate won't move with the pedal while you are cranking the motor. The ECU will keep it where it
can get enough air and fuel to idle, THEN, once the motor is running, it releases control to the pedal
readings. If it fully actuates with the car in RUN, motor NOT RUNNING, then it's fine. As far as
the noise they make, it can be anywhere from a scraping noise, to hardly anything.

Also is it safe to spray starting fluid in the intake to see if it will run for a couple seconds?
You can do that. It will work with the intake hose off the car. Just have
someone crank the motor while you spray a little at a time into the TB
unit. I have done it plenty, you don't need the MAF or anything hooked
up because starting fluid doesn't need an air to fuel ratio, just needs air...
It will putter or stumble, but it will turn over if it's not coils and/or plugs.
 

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