tune or something else?

pass1over

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MAF looked fine, not dirty, but cleaned it anyways. Pulled two plugs and they look fine.
It's been awhile since I've gotten this one so I couldn't remember the code, but got a p2098 while driving in to town. I figured it was just because there's no cats and downstream are still enabled.

It used to pop up every now and then and I'd either find an exhaust leak at the collector or nothing and it wouldn't come back.
 

pass1over

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Got the 66 off the lift and the 12 in the air. Found a couple pinhole leaks in between upstream and downstream o2 on drivers side, which would cause that p2098 I'm sure. I sealed them up and swapped all o2s from one side to other, to see if it follows sensors or stays on that bank.

Didn't find any vacuum leaks around MAF, or any of the cai connections.

I did notice/remember once I was looking at it, that one of the upstream wouldn't come out during LT swap and I replaced it. But not the other one. That was about a year ago. Should I replace the other original one? I know I've read that recommend replace in pairs.
 

pass1over

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I guess one of the sensors is going bad.
I haven't had a code since I messed with it last, but this morning on the drive to work, I got a P2096, which is Bank 1. It used to always be a P2098, which is Bank 2
 

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Replace in pairs is mostly for brakes, shocks, tires. Etc.
As for O2 sensors, not so much, but if one failed....
 

pass1over

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I don't think it's failed yet, but it's going out? I only get the CEL every so often, twice in 4 morning work commutes this past week, and no code for like 3 weeks before that.

Like I said, the error code followed the bank when I swapped them, so it's an assumption. The downstreams are only $35/each, so I might just replace both. Hoping to have them disabled and not have to worry about them though.

I guess it was something else after all, and not the tune (for all you AM haters out there, lol).
 

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I was getting some wierd code, something like "O2 pumping circuit...." Only under a hard pull, it would throw the CEL on. Just putting around, no codes. I replaced the upstream O2 sensors and no more code.
Disable O2 sensors??? Guess you dont have to get smogged.
 

pass1over

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I only get the P2098 or now P2096 while cruising 60ish, 6th gear, about 10-15min after cold start. But i'll go weeks without it happening sometimes.

No, no emissions test here in Florida. I guess I could try just replacing them, I don't have a constant CEL because of no cats, just this random and often seldom occurrence. Which is easily reset with the obd controls on my radio.
 

pass1over

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there were a couple of pinhole leaks around a weld joint where I added the rear o2's back in, nothing big. They're all closed up now, or at least they were last time I checked. But all has been good with the idle drop since then. Only issue is this random o2 CEL that pops up occasionally.
 

pass1over

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getting an intermittent code still, but when I swapped sensors between the sides, it followed the sensors. It was a P2098 for awhile, now it's P2096.

When I did long tubes, I replaced 1 of the upstreams. So my upstreams are 1 year old, and original oem. My downstreams are both originals.

Does this code indicate a bad downstream o2 then possibly? Any suggestions on which I should replace?
 

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Both those codes are for downstream O2 sensors are showing LEAN. Could be the sensors, could be something else. But atleast the upstream sensors are OK and not reporting any issues.
 

pass1over

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I know it's a downstream sensor code, just making sure that it would be the one to replace. Since it followed banks when I switched them, I'm assuming it's a bad sensor, or one going bad.
 

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I know it's a downstream sensor code, just making sure that it would be the one to replace. Since it followed banks when I switched them, I'm assuming it's a bad sensor, or one going bad.

Appears you're on the right track. I'd replace the suspect sensor with new OEM.
 

pass1over

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definitely something else .... I went with PBD for tuning. Rear o2's are disabled and that CEL doesnt appear anymore, however ... the weird idle down fluctuation/dying is still occurring.

Went through like 6 revisions with AM, one of theirs wasn't too bad and the ECU seemed to learn and not fluctuate as much, and stopped dying. The PBD tune died on me 3 times the other day going to work in the AM, coming to a stop sign/red light.

I am waiting to fix my SCT so I can datalog, but it appears that there's something going on with my car maybe? I've cleaned air filter, MAF, throttle body multiple times. Smoke checked my intake and exhaust, no leaks. What else could be going on to cause this outside of the tune?
 

redfirepearlgt

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Had this lean code issue on my 13 years ago after a clutch swap. Ended up being a very small leak in the exhaust causing the aft lean O2 code.

PBD is a solid group. Given chance they will correct the idle issue. On newer cars it is not as simple as a carb adjustment. In fact idle on newer cars is the most tedious portion of the tuning process.

Get your SCT device resolved so you can log and send them so they can make the corrections and dial it in. I used a laptop and the Livelink II software SCT provides to datalog. Found it so much easier than fighting with creating a config for the device, downloading it...blah, blah, blah. With the free Livelink II and a laptop you simply connect the SCT to the car, connect the laptop to the SCT (like when you transfer a tune), open livelink II, connect, and follow the prompts. You can create config files off line to datalog the PID's PBD wants. They provide that information and the process on their website...or did at one time when I used them on my 17 (sold). The cfg files stay on teh laptop. They do not have to be converted and exported to the SCT device which is a very large PITA IMHO.
 

pass1over

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I've done the exact same technique you described to datalog for AM, went through like 6 tune revisions.

As soon as I get my x3 fixed I'll try to dataog again
 

redfirepearlgt

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You should have a better experience with PBD. Just give them a chance. Not every remote tune is a one-and-done. Keep in mind - based on your sig and details of the 12 Kona car we are discussing - that you have very few mods on the car and can put it back to the stock tune and verify that the tune is the issue. PBD is a high demand business. They cannot always respond overnite. If a large event like Bradenton NMRA or similar is going on they focus on their customers competing and networking with them live/remotely during the event. I place PBD in the top 3 of best to deal with from a personal experience. Just be patient, datalog, and give them some time. My experience with them was up to 7 business days to hear back when they had large events going. When large events are going these companies are either overwhelmed with real time tuning during competition or actually at the event tuning in person or at a sponsor booth promoting business. Just restating what is likely already known.
 

pass1over

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Bama was quick to give revisions. I haven't sent PBD any datalogs yet for a revision, waiting on the ability to. I haven't had a negative experience with either of these tuners.

What I was asking was ... this exact same issue appeared on all tunes, from both tuners, so I assume there might be something mechanically wrong with my car. I was looking for some suggestions of things to look into that might cause this issue.
I've cleaned air filter, MAF, throttle body. Re-sealed all CAI connections, smoke tested CAI and intake manifold. Smoke tested/leaf blower tested exhaust and fixed all pinhole leaks. Where else can I look?
 

Juice

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Bama was quick to give revisions. I haven't sent PBD any datalogs yet for a revision, waiting on the ability to. I haven't had a negative experience with either of these tuners.

What I was asking was ... this exact same issue appeared on all tunes, from both tuners, so I assume there might be something mechanically wrong with my car. I was looking for some suggestions of things to look into that might cause this issue.
I've cleaned air filter, MAF, throttle body. Re-sealed all CAI connections, smoke tested CAI and intake manifold. Smoke tested/leaf blower tested exhaust and fixed all pinhole leaks. Where else can I look?

I would say put the stock air filter assembly/box back, have the tune remove the CAI. And your idle issues will go away.
 

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