What are your boosted IAT

Gearjammer2287

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just wanted to see what every one’s IAT are on there boosted setups

I have a bone stock 4.6 with Eforce with “cai” bit smaller pulley 7-8lbs of boost

I see IAT up to 165 degrees at wot even at night when ambients are in the 80-90 may even higher I need to look at rest of logs
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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One disadvantage of positive displacement superchargers such as the E-Force is the limited amount of under hood space available to mount an intercooler large enough to effectivey reduce IATs. For that reason, the small intercooler that comes with these superchargers is liquid cooled, with a pump to circulate the coolant.
You might want to check if the intercooler pump is working properly or working at all. Any air in the system can cause cavitation inside the pump and reduce its efficiency. Also check if there's any intercooler coolant leak.
 

Gearjammer2287

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Yeah brick inside the eforce Is decent but the heat exchanger up front is what I think to be way to small all the other eforce kits for different cars and differnt year stangs come with a big one
 

Pentalab

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just wanted to see what every one’s IAT are on there boosted setups

I have a bone stock 4.6 with Eforce with “cai” bit smaller pulley 7-8lbs of boost

I see IAT up to 165 degrees at wot even at night when ambients are in the 80-90 may even higher I need to look at rest of logs
165 F is WAY too high ! It will be pulling timing on you. It should never be > 125 F.
Either the pump is DOA, or there is air in it, or the front mounted heat exchanger is way too small.
 

Gearjammer2287

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yeah it runs like crap when the temps get up there but I tune with knock monitor pro so I made the tune safe for them temps but still left a lot on table

the pump works and no air in system I have gone threw different pumps and differnt tank setups but the heat exchanger has always stayed the same I’m fixing to upgrade that next prolly with DOB Super Single…… and possibly meth injection

I had a small dry nitrous shot on it for a while to help lower the intake temps it never registered lower IAT with the nitrous I assume because the shot was to small (50hp)

I always wonder if it is just my setup or if all the 3v eForce run like this
 

DieHarder

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I run a larger HE w/stock GT500 pump/M-122 SC and depending on ambient temps run around 20-25 higher than ambient. I.e. if ambient is 80 I'll run around 100 - 105 compressed. In winter it can be much lower and summer up to 130. Just really depends on what ambient is doing that particular day.
 
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07 Boss

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The easiest ways to increase the efficiency is to add volume. A larger reservoir tank will increase the capacity of the system as well as maybe a larger heat exchanger up front. More coolant flow with a larger pump may also help but there is a point where you will flow too much and the coolant won't have enough time in the intercooler to transfer heat energy.
 

Gearjammer2287

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Yeah I have read all the DOB stuff it’s good info I’m glad they put in all the effort to testing that shit

my car heat soaked with stock Edelbrock tune put down 389hp/361tq

With me tuning it and not so heat soaked 435hp/423tq

Never dynoed with the nitrous
 

DieHarder

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The easiest ways to increase the efficiency is to add volume. A larger reservoir tank will increase the capacity of the system as well as maybe a larger heat exchanger up front. More coolant flow with a larger pump may also help but there is a point where you will flow too much and the coolant won't have enough time in the intercooler to transfer heat energy.
The things that affect performance most are the size of the HE (heat exchanger)/size of lines and efficiency of the pump (how much coolant it can move in a given amount of time). A larger HE /larger lines will take more heat out of the coolant for a given air speed provided the pump moves enough water. I opted for a 2014 GT500 HE (which is about 3-5x the size of the eForce HE) and 2014 pump. I think in my case my IATs are okay for the HE/lines/pump I'm running as I'm not into boost that often. If I was I'd need look at a better pump/larger lines that could move more coolant but for what I have but I don't think it's necessary as the cost of pumps/larger HE/lines can get expensive real quick.
 

Pentalab

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Let's say you had a swimming pool with cold water in it....then a firehose to the IC pump, then another firehose to the intake of the intercooler.... then out of the IC...then dumped on the ground. In this case, a bigger pump would help a lot. You want high water flow volume through the IC.

Here's the problem, when the hot water leaves the IC, it flows in the top of the De-gas jug, then out the bottom of the de-gas jug...then into the IC pump, then into the bottom of the HE, comes out the top of the HE....and back to the intake of the IC, completing the loop.

The IC extracts the heat...and the HE dumps the extracted heat. Ideally you want high flow rate through the IC, but much slower through the HE. Reason is, when the hot water sits in the HE longer, more heat is extracted from the HE. Problem is... it's all one big loop. With higher flow rates, it's not in the HE long enough. With slower flow rates, it's not going through the IC fast enough.

The only fix is a bigger HE. With a bigger HE, more heat can be extracted for a given flow rate. The HE from the 2014 GT-500 is massive vs the puny HE in the Edelbrock. The IC pump from the 2014 GT-500 flows double the volume vs the oem pumps used by edelbrock, roush, etc. The IC pump from the 2015 GT-500 can use the same fuse position and fuse size as the smaller pump.

At 15" tall and 3" thick, (forget the width) the bigger 2014 GT-500 HE does the job.... good enough that the mating higher capacity pump can be used to great effect.

I use a CDC front chin spoiler on my 2010-GT with small Roush M-90 blower...that alone puts more air through the lower grille. The Roush HE is 18" tall, and full width, but only 3/4" thick. It get hit by air from both the upper and lower grille. In the case of the 2010 GT, the oem upper grille is a full 80% blocked off ! My fix for that was the 7 bar grille. (which also deletes the oem upper foglamps). Ok, now a second benefit of the 7 bar upper grille...it eliminates the TWO x 90 degree bends from oem upper front grille to intake of the 'snorkel' that feeds the oem airbox. Now I can see the intake of the 'snorkel'. Air screams right in the upper grille, hitting the top portion of the Roush HE. The entire eng bay now runs cooler. IAT's are a non issue The problem with the mustang is..... the front bumper blocks a ton of air. All you have is the upper + lower grilles.

The 05-09 cars get the 9 bar upper grille....if oem upper grille is replaced.

The issue with the oem Edelbrock setup is an.....'easy' fix. Even a bigger HE and stock IC pump would improve things by a huge amount.
 

DieHarder

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Any problems w/Air buffeting at high speeds? Had to add an air diverter to pull air from the engine bay and exhaust it out the bottom of the engine on my son's 07. I had replaced the stock grill after an accident with an aftermarket one and the amount of air that would hit the front grill and try to enter the engine bay at 70+ would buffet the hood like crazy and start to push the front end at 80+. Got so squirrely at times couldn't really drive it faster than that.

I don't have that problem w/my GT but only about half of the grill is open at the upper grill for airflow thru the radiator. I also have an aftermarket bumper/grill on it but it has a larger opening at the bottom so the HE gets enough airflow to cool effectively for the most part and I don't often sit in traffic so that's not really an issue either.
 

Gearjammer2287

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Well I got a 2.5 gallon tank In The trunk have been running that for a while

last night I ordered a cwa400 pump

And

Mishimoto universal heat exchanger 19x15x2

I had been trying to not replace the heat exchanger cause I eventually wanted a Interchiller setup but that ain’t gonna happen so ill give this a shot and see what happens

I was looking at logs last night and my car would bassicly run at 130 all
Day and at the end of a run would be up around 160
 

DieHarder

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Well I got a 2.5 gallon tank In The trunk have been running that for a while

last night I ordered a cwa400 pump

And

Mishimoto universal heat exchanger 19x15x2

I had been trying to not replace the heat exchanger cause I eventually wanted a Interchiller setup but that ain’t gonna happen so ill give this a shot and see what happens

I was looking at logs last night and my car would bassicly run at 130 all
Day and at the end of a run would be up around 160

Another issue you're fighting is heat soak. The supercharger intake/IC manifold is aluminum and bolts to an aluminum head. This results in higher temps within the intake/IC as the engine gets up to operating temps. DOBs answer to that was adding about 1/2" of high temp insulation material between the supercharger manifold and head (and one of the reasons I bought it). I imagine it's good for at least 20 - 60 deg or more. In my case my IATs never really go higher than about 120 (compressed side/summer 85 deg/freeway speeds) when I'm not on it and up to 128 - 130 when I am. The highest I've ever seen was 150 but the pump wasn't working right. My temps can go up over 130 - 135 sitting in traffic but that's about it unless there's something not working right in the system. In winter (50 - 60 ambient) I may not see higher than 85-90 compressed on a given day. The other things I added that probably help contribute some are a 170 deg thermostat and a De-gas jug by-pass that improves flow somewhat. I haven't tried adding larger lines yet but if I did I would probably go with 1" primary lines and a bigger (higher flow) pump.

Here's a pic. The insulation material is at the bottom of the manifold (easier to see on the mockups).

DOB Supercharger Manifold rear.jpg

Gen3_1.jpg

Gen3_3.jpg

IMG-0341.jpg

IMG-0347.jpg
 

Gearjammer2287

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It’s funny u bring up the thermostat and Insulation my buddy owns a cnc machine and we were just talking about making some phenolic spacers to try and combat heat soak and I got a 180 stat also I’m thinking of gettin a 170 and a 160 and running a little test with them to see if there is an impact
 

DieHarder

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You're on the right track. Just ensure you figure out a means to seal it. I suppose cutting reliefs for the rubber OEM intake gaskets on both sides of the phenolic material or 2) seal it to the supercharger manifold on one side and CNC the other side for OEM gaskets. DOB sealed mine on the insulator/manifold side and used OEM rubber rings on the head side.
 

Midlife Crises

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I have been tracking and trying to combat IATs for some time now. Starting with the ambient air sensor mounted in the lower grill, I have added a sensor to the inlet air duct directly in front of the throttle body and another in the plenum under the Roush blower manifold. The IAT sending unit the PLC uses is mounted in runner #6 of the intake manifold. It is difficult to watch all these numbers at the same time but it is possible to spot check them and compare to data logs. The first problem I see is under hood temperature influence on the inlet air and the next is heat soak. Engine bay temp of 60* or more above ambient have a huge impact on the air going in the throttle body. Above 50mph this is not a problem and running the air conditioner in slow city traffic helps a good deal but it is not ideal. The GT500 style heat exchanger and pump does actually work when in boost but probably not for a extended period. If I have an IAT of 128* just cruising around and go wide open “closes the bypass” boost comes up to 17 or 18 psi and the IAT will go down to around 109* within 10 seconds. I’m sure it will eventually heat soak but I have never been in boost for more than 10 or 15 seconds.
 

Gearjammer2287

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What year is your car I can’t say that I have seen an ambient temp sensor on my car I have looked for it and nothing

I assumed that it was an Inferred data mine always reads stupid temps

I started at 130 and about 11 seconds was at 160 and my ambient said it was 127 through four the run

1726803217800blob.png
 

Pentalab

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What year is your car I can’t say that I have seen an ambient temp sensor on my car I have looked for it and nothing

I assumed that it was an Inferred data mine always reads stupid temps

I started at 130 and about 11 seconds was at 160 and my ambient said it was 127 through four the run

View attachment 99912
It's on the lower grille , driver's side, on my 2010.
 

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