The '05-'09 cars have a much louder horn than the newer ones for some reason. And it's not the horn itself, it's whatever is controlling it. Cuz the factory horn in my '13 is anemic compared to the horn in my wife's '08, and even after installing a horn out of a 2008 Bullitt into my '13, it still sounds the same. Anemic. Hate it.
What have you done to your mustang today?
- Thread starter *JZ*
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The '05-'09 cars have a much louder horn than the newer ones for some reason. And it's not the horn itself, it's whatever is controlling it. Cuz the factory horn in my '13 is anemic compared to the horn in my wife's '08, and even after installing a horn out of a 2008 Bullitt into my '13, it still sounds the same. Anemic. Hate it.
LordHenry
Junior Member
The horn on my 2011 GT is much quieter than the horn on my 2019 Ranger! The ranger horn is annoying when setting the lock and alarm, but I guess it's a good thing when you need to get someone's attention.
AHaze
Member
Yanked the battery and put the cover on. Gonna be pretty tough to put 450ish RWHP to the ground around here for the next five months.
The Mrs. just got an Audi TTS though so I may be able to borrow that and have a little fun when the roads are clear this winter.
The Mrs. just got an Audi TTS though so I may be able to borrow that and have a little fun when the roads are clear this winter.
mpm_1
forum member
Bath before bed...
JimC
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Went to Lapeer International Dragway for some test and tune today. Probably the last day they will be open for the season. Nice day, temperature in the 50's, wind coming mainly from behind and a little from the left, which is unusual for there where we usually are fighting a headwind all day.
Other than drag radials the car is stock, as delivered. No tuning or anything yet for the 2024. Hit several personal bests today - a 12.08, then a 12.06, a 12.04, then a 12.03. My friend with his EcoBoost hit his goal of a 13.4 so decided to leave and said "let me know if you break into the 11's" and the next pass after he left hit a 11.99 at 116 mph. I think that I am finally learning how to launch this car. The on board line lock takes some getting used to with several steps, not like my 2006 where all I had to do was push a button to engage it.
Other than drag radials the car is stock, as delivered. No tuning or anything yet for the 2024. Hit several personal bests today - a 12.08, then a 12.06, a 12.04, then a 12.03. My friend with his EcoBoost hit his goal of a 13.4 so decided to leave and said "let me know if you break into the 11's" and the next pass after he left hit a 11.99 at 116 mph. I think that I am finally learning how to launch this car. The on board line lock takes some getting used to with several steps, not like my 2006 where all I had to do was push a button to engage it.
Blue03Cobra
Junior Member
Replaced the rear swaybar bushings, rear shocks, front struts/springs, swaybar links and strut tower brace on my new (to me) 08 GT. 112,000 miles and they were worn out. Drives like new, now. Wanted stock-ish and budget friendly, so KYB was the ticket. Very happy with the way it turned out.
Nice. With that age and mileage, would be a good idea to check the upper diff bushing. It's probably all cracked. Not a terribly hard job to do. I've replaced them in my wife's '08 Shelby and in my '13 GT
Fairly long list, and its been a months long project. Replaced phaser deletes with new phasers and phase limiters, replaced broken chineseum headers with LTH long tubes, added Division X 2 pump return style fuel system, changed to 1100cc injectors, changed to Whipple 132 throttle body, replaced defective phaser with another new one, added Forgestar CF5 wheels, and finally switched to GT500 size rear rotors. In between all of that, ive been datalogging, finding out that i have a bad phaser, finding out that i was running on one pump because i didnt read the directions propperly, and trying to figure out where to get good E85 in my area.
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JimC
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It's getting colder here in SE Michigan so I swapped my summer wheels and tires for the winter wheels and snow tires. Already had several mornings just under or at 40 degrees so it was time.
I also changed all the lug nuts over to solid ones. The Ford 2 piece were starting to swell and jamming in the socket when I was swapping to my drag radials last weekend, and two of them broke (luckily a friend was there and had his old ones with him so I was able to borrow some from him
I also changed all the lug nuts over to solid ones. The Ford 2 piece were starting to swell and jamming in the socket when I was swapping to my drag radials last weekend, and two of them broke (luckily a friend was there and had his old ones with him so I was able to borrow some from him
Blue03Cobra
Junior Member
Do you have the part number for those?
JimC
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For the replacement lug nuts? There are lots of options. You can go to various parts stores and look for them. A popular replacement is the "gorilla" brand. But I don't have the part number handy.
Blue03Cobra
Junior Member
Ordered. Was your UCA bushing OK or did you wind up changing it, as well?
I replaced the UCAs on both cars a long time ago, lol. The Shelby has a Steeda unit, mine has an adjustable BMR. Both have poly bushings, still going good
GlassTop09
Senior Member
Finally got around to upgrading my 8 awg Fuel Pump Wire Mod 40A relay to use a Leash Electronics Hi Output Relay Station (shout out to lwarroir for posting the link) fused to 30A at the relay station, thus allowed me to up the fuse at the BEC to 50A (just because.......same 50A fuse that JeremyH sends w\ his 8 awg Fuel Pump Wire Mod kit) & upgraded the 12v+ power feed wire from Leash relay station output to FPDM 12v+ power in terminal from the 10" section of leftover Ford OEM 16 awg wire to 12 awg wire......then wired up a secondary 12v+ power setup using the now spare 40A relay w\ the spliced LFT rear reverse light 12v+ power from SJB as trigger wire to power my Ford reverse backup alarm system & upcoming reverse backup camera system to hook up to my existing Kenwood Excelon DNS 995 head unit (has reverse backup camera capability built in). Put in a 15A ATO fuse off Leash relay station 12v+ power input lug, then a 2A mini fuse to Ford reverse backup alarm controller..........will be putting in another 2A mini fuse in the other Mini Fuse holder for the reverse backup camera when install is completed.
Found that the speaker beeps on the Ford reverse backup alarm system got louder since doing this.......kinda figured that the 12v+ to LFT rear reverse light from SJB was low amperage power thus wouldn't carry much more amperage load w\o causing issues in the SJB circuitry.........this result confirmed my hunch.
Since days are shorter now, I broke this up to do in 2 stages, so the next stage is the actual reverse backup camera installation (been wanting to get this done for quite some time............just kept putting it off).
Gonna pull out my Kenwood install guide & see what needs to be done under the dash........................
Found that the speaker beeps on the Ford reverse backup alarm system got louder since doing this.......kinda figured that the 12v+ to LFT rear reverse light from SJB was low amperage power thus wouldn't carry much more amperage load w\o causing issues in the SJB circuitry.........this result confirmed my hunch.
Since days are shorter now, I broke this up to do in 2 stages, so the next stage is the actual reverse backup camera installation (been wanting to get this done for quite some time............just kept putting it off).
Gonna pull out my Kenwood install guide & see what needs to be done under the dash........................
JimC
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Getting colder here in SE Michigan. Several mornings at or below 40 degrees already. So swapped my summer wheels and tires to the winter wheels and snow tires on my 2024 GT.
golkhl
forum member
Took the Bullitt to cars and coffee.
Blue03Cobra
Junior Member
Fixed my defrost blend door actuator, yesterday, which just broke on Tuesday...
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Defrost Blend Door Actuator Replacement - 2008 GT
Just wanted to report my experience with replacing the subject matter. While moving the A/C selector switch to defrost, I heard a plastic "pop" under the dash. Later that day, I switched to A/C and panel, but the cold air came out of both the defroster vents and panel vents and cooled the...
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GlassTop09
Senior Member
This happened across a couple of days..........................
Been noticing a small leak at the front of my Stang on my driveway since a couple of weeks ago............looked under her & saw the leak dripping off the underside air dam that covers the bottom of radiator........knew it wasn't engine oil thus was either an AC refrigerant or engine coolant leak but couldn't see anything from up top (can see the air dam but couldn't see any leakage on it) so I knew I'll have to put her in the air & remove the air dam cover to then find this leak.........
Did this Wednesday............found the leak was engine coolant........coming from the weld seams at bottom of radiator tanks (Mishimoto HP 3-Row rad has developed some very small stress cracks from heat cycling over the last 4 yrs........doesn't leak at all upon engine cold startup & running........only when engine is shut down & during the cooldown process she'll start to weep a little coolant until the rad cools off & internal pressure is relieved........rinse & repeat.
So, I'll need to get a replacement radiator in the near future............but while under there I also found this
:
Passenger side tire inner shoulder edge is worn off down to the inner core & edge of steel core showing! Checked DS side tire & found the same thing but a lot less severe. Just on the very edge of inner tire shoulders, rest of tire looks good........doesn't look like the alignment was off.
I had noted some light steering wheel shimming at times thus my initial read was tie rod ends (the inner tie rods were still the 16 yr old OEM's......had replaced both outer tie rods some 5 yrs ago due to busted dust boots found on the OEM parts) so while she was in the air, I checked both sides........DS side was solid, PS had a little 9-to-3 play in her as well as a little 6-to-12 & I could see the inner tie rod's dust boot move in time thus said inner tie rod........so I said screw it & bought a full set of tie rods for both sides & replaced all as pairs along w\ a set of front wheel hubs & new nuts (these were also still the 16 yr old OEM parts), but O'Reilly's had to order the inner tie rod ends & wheel hubs (wanted their Precision line of suspension parts & not the Max Pro stuff........better made w\ better warranties......lifetime on the tie rods & 3 yrs on the wheel hubs) to take all this out of the picture thus now the whole front end has been gone thru as well as the rear.
All this happened over the last 2 days........finishing all up Friday evening (did work as the parts arrived) & have visited the local Discount Tire & have ordered 2 Conti Extreme Contact DWS06 Plus tires in 265\40\18 instead of the current 255\40\18 I ran on the front (this will now set the front\rear tire stagger back to the original 07-09 GT500 front\rear 30mm stagger)........they'll be in Tues the 26th so once these are mounted & installed she's off to the alignment shop (local Ford dealership) once again to make sure that alignment is good (have touched the tie rods) & no excessive negative camber is involved (shouldn't be as the Ford Performance camber bolts haven't moved from last alignment done some 3 yrs ago).
Test drive was good overall...........had a slight pull to the left but was very smooth\solid in feel..........but I also switched the PS tire (worst 1) to the DS side & DS tire to the PS since the DS showed to have worn far less. All new tie rods were the same length as the old stuff thus the thread counts should have put all essentially back to original position (23 1\2 T's on PS, 23 T's on DS).
So, I grounded her for the time being until I get the tires replaced so my '03 Dodge RAM 1500 will get some love in the meantime.
Hell of a deal!
Been noticing a small leak at the front of my Stang on my driveway since a couple of weeks ago............looked under her & saw the leak dripping off the underside air dam that covers the bottom of radiator........knew it wasn't engine oil thus was either an AC refrigerant or engine coolant leak but couldn't see anything from up top (can see the air dam but couldn't see any leakage on it) so I knew I'll have to put her in the air & remove the air dam cover to then find this leak.........
Did this Wednesday............found the leak was engine coolant........coming from the weld seams at bottom of radiator tanks (Mishimoto HP 3-Row rad has developed some very small stress cracks from heat cycling over the last 4 yrs........doesn't leak at all upon engine cold startup & running........only when engine is shut down & during the cooldown process she'll start to weep a little coolant until the rad cools off & internal pressure is relieved........rinse & repeat.
So, I'll need to get a replacement radiator in the near future............but while under there I also found this
Passenger side tire inner shoulder edge is worn off down to the inner core & edge of steel core showing! Checked DS side tire & found the same thing but a lot less severe. Just on the very edge of inner tire shoulders, rest of tire looks good........doesn't look like the alignment was off.
I had noted some light steering wheel shimming at times thus my initial read was tie rod ends (the inner tie rods were still the 16 yr old OEM's......had replaced both outer tie rods some 5 yrs ago due to busted dust boots found on the OEM parts) so while she was in the air, I checked both sides........DS side was solid, PS had a little 9-to-3 play in her as well as a little 6-to-12 & I could see the inner tie rod's dust boot move in time thus said inner tie rod........so I said screw it & bought a full set of tie rods for both sides & replaced all as pairs along w\ a set of front wheel hubs & new nuts (these were also still the 16 yr old OEM parts), but O'Reilly's had to order the inner tie rod ends & wheel hubs (wanted their Precision line of suspension parts & not the Max Pro stuff........better made w\ better warranties......lifetime on the tie rods & 3 yrs on the wheel hubs) to take all this out of the picture thus now the whole front end has been gone thru as well as the rear.
All this happened over the last 2 days........finishing all up Friday evening (did work as the parts arrived) & have visited the local Discount Tire & have ordered 2 Conti Extreme Contact DWS06 Plus tires in 265\40\18 instead of the current 255\40\18 I ran on the front (this will now set the front\rear tire stagger back to the original 07-09 GT500 front\rear 30mm stagger)........they'll be in Tues the 26th so once these are mounted & installed she's off to the alignment shop (local Ford dealership) once again to make sure that alignment is good (have touched the tie rods) & no excessive negative camber is involved (shouldn't be as the Ford Performance camber bolts haven't moved from last alignment done some 3 yrs ago).
Test drive was good overall...........had a slight pull to the left but was very smooth\solid in feel..........but I also switched the PS tire (worst 1) to the DS side & DS tire to the PS since the DS showed to have worn far less. All new tie rods were the same length as the old stuff thus the thread counts should have put all essentially back to original position (23 1\2 T's on PS, 23 T's on DS).
So, I grounded her for the time being until I get the tires replaced so my '03 Dodge RAM 1500 will get some love in the meantime.
Hell of a deal!
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