What have you done to your mustang today?
- Thread starter *JZ*
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Blue03Cobra
Junior Member
JLT Stage III and 5* 93 Perf tune. Really woke the car up.
Blue03Cobra
Junior Member
Then, I couldn't resist adding an axleback. Installed a Flowmaster 817410 kit. My '03 Cobra had 40 series Flowmasters, and I loved the "musclecar" rumble, but it droned badly in the 2,000 RPM range, so did some research and went with the updated Delta 60 series. LOVE it. Very deep/throaty at startup, with absolutely no drone, at any RPM. Loud enough to overshadow the JLT intake sounds at WOT, but not annoying. VERY happy.
Blue03Cobra
Junior Member
Finally, did a 3M headlight/foglight restoration. 16 y.o. plastic needed some love. Yup, worked great. $12 on Amazon and some $$$ well spent.
Yeah I am a believer. Great job with quality stuff.
GlassTop09
Senior Member
Hey Golkhl,
You running that Lucas Oil Stabilizer in the 2V only (assuming its mileage is much higher than your 3V) or in both? If I might ask, how long you've been using it & what is your assessment?
Got me thinking about adding some of that in my now 178,013+ mi NA 3V after timing refresh job is completed.............would appreciate any info given.
Now on my Stang....................
I took her to the car wash today & gave her a bath then drove her around (been sitting since Tuesday evening after tire replacement).
Cold started perfect @ 38*F.......engine startup was stable & smooth w\o no fanfare or flaring, no black\blue smoke out exhaust, both MF #5461336 CARB-cert EO #D-193-140 TWC cats quickly & readily lit off, came up to & held correct operational temps\rear post-cat O2 voltage readings within 90-120 secs after initial startup & followed my Idle\RPM\Idle Adders\Startup ECT map settings to the letter so it appears that I got my OL fuel base cold Lambda fueling map's 35*F thru 50*F ECT Lambda settings matched well to my FRPP Hot Rod cams (made guess that these FRPP HR cams would want slightly richer fueling than an OEM cam\my Lunati's in this area of the map based off their respective cam timing profiles at VCT 0*.....was waiting on a <40*F cold morning startup after car sat for a few days to test this out........last item to check off before calling tune done).......also pays to set the FI EOIT CA ref setting properly to end port EFI fuel spray at the FRPP HR cam's .006" adv dur IVO timing event of 311* CA (or 49* BTDC IVO at VCT 0*) so proper OEM set startup cranking fuel puddling is achieved on back of both intake valves prior opening to aid in cold start stability. CMCV's also have a part to play w\ this as well (closed CMCV's help w\ A\F mixing, suspension & distribution within the cylinder\CC during the low RPM intake stroke when\after piston reaches\exceeds peak piston velocity as it travels towards BDC......3V cyl head CC's\dished piston tops have no usable quench area to further agitate A\F mix during compression\ignition to maintain good\quick, even & full flame front spread\burn rate thus is totally reliant on air flow velocity turbulence\tumble created by the CMCV's according to Sir Issac Newton's Laws of Motion........otherwise extra fueling--or reduced ignition timing, or both--is required to effectively cool the cyl head CC's to resist\arrest low RPM detonation.......mostly happening during initial throttle tip in or opening rate.....).
FYI for those so interested.......................
Final cold start test is to do a cold start when AAT is very low.........in the low teens\20's........she passes this test, she's done.
Stranger
Member
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- Oct 27, 2020
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Washed it and put it away for the season.
golkhl
forum member
I have only recently used the Lucas oil stabilizer, as my 08 Bullitt and 04 GT both hit 75k last oil change, so I added a bottle to each. Just did oil change on both, cannot say I noticed a difference in either car after 2,500 miles. This time I only ran the Lucas in the 04 GT since I had an extra bottle and it is my daily driver.
GlassTop09
Senior Member
Thanks, gents, for the responses............
Wanted to get another take from actual users of the product. As far as Lucas's product reputation goes, this is very high in my eyes (use them in my TR3650 trans & rear 8.8" axle so I know their products do pretty much what Lucas says they'll do) thus was already leaning on trying this after seeing Golkhl's photos showing his usage w\ my high mileaged 4.6L 3V (whatever necessary to ensure that I can stretch her longevity out as far as I can since I have actual operational EOP & cranking compression data showing good hot idle RPM EOP but slightly lower hot 2,000 RPM running EOP & slightly lower static cranking compression pressures indicating some potential piston ring\cyl wall wear as well as some excess clearance leakage--suspecting the majority of this leakage is in the high mileaged timing components & not so much in the rotating assembly.....have already replaced\upgraded the top end components, ie cams, ARP hardware, cam followers, VCT solenoids & lash adjusters thus only leaves the cam phasers, chains, guides, chain tensioners, oil pump & hardware to refresh\upgrade.......engine runs too good to not address this in a timely fashion & these timing components are the last internal parts that make sense to change out\upgrade prior a future engine rebuild, IMHO).
Gonna look into it.
GlassTop09
Senior Member
Finally got this package at my doorstep Wednesday (got caught up in all the Midwest winter during shipping thus USPS delayed approx 1 week)......consists of the Gyraline alignment plate\cradle for the phone (IPhone 6S or later......these phones have the full assortment of internal sensors used w\ assorted health apps that can pick up body motion across an X-Y-Z axis range of movement), centering slide clamp & 3 different length clamping screws (to accommodate assorted width phones from narrow to wide & thumb handle remains inboard of the plate side blocks when tightened).Ordered 1 of these this morning after running across a YouTube video on its use.............................
Gyraline: The DIY Wheel Alignment Solution
Gyraline is an app and tool kit that allows anybody to do a four wheel alignment at homegyraline.com
This is the modern version of jack stands, string line & a tape measure to check\do DIY front & rear alignments...........using this plate & your IPhone's (also have just put out an Android version.......I have an Apple IPhone 7S which is compatible) internal sensors w\ their app...........tested\verified accuracy to .05* which is good enough for how I'm gonna use it.
Gonna use it to get all current front-end caster, camber, toe measurements on my Stang after tire install but prior real alignment check\work to get a real comparison on this tool thus real reference to use for future checks.........as 1 could do using the old school methods.
1st thing off the bat..........the internal sensors in this IPhone are very sensitive to any type of movement ........so when using this thing you have to be very smooth & steady & you really need to have your finger in place prior needing to touch the screen once you establish level or center positions, so you don't twitch\need to move........it's that sensitive........thus I can see where the accuracy will come from.......if you are very deliberate in where\how you place the plate against the wheel rim\edge.........consistency is key to accuracy w\ this product.
You'll also have to remove any protection devices\covers off the phone as the phone won't fit in the plate\cradle at all w\ them installed.........only w\ original designed phone dimensions will it fit so clamp can properly center it to the plate while it's being locked in.........ask me how I know.
Vehicle also has to be on a flat\level surface (same as on an alignment rack) to get good front\rear camber, front caster & Ackermann angles. For rear SRA alignments, all you really need to get are the rear axle toe measurements......these will give you the rear axle thrust angle which is necessary to properly set front toe alignment (or if you have adjustable LCA's.......you can align the rear axle thrust angle to vehicle body centerline if warranted......think "dog walk\track" correction here prior front toe alignment).
I ran this Gyraline thru a quick run to see how it fares..........found out very fast it's not a good idea to have just eaten prior using this thing (had a very hard time being steady\deliberate after a helping of smothered pork chops & rice) as to use this on our S197's on the ground, you got to get pretty low & for an old fat man.....this is hard enough to do as it is, let alone having just finished eating.......so I didn't even try to get any caster measurements after suffering thru getting the toe & camber measurements. Messed up on the camber measurements as I didn't realize to do the offset correction on the plate prior taking them (phone is clamped off-center to 1 side of this plate thus you'll need to do an offset plate correction alignment to plate centerline before taking camber measurements so when you change sides--L to R--you'd be flipping the phone from 1 side of plate centerline to the other........not necessary for toe) so the results came out showing slightly positive camber (L @ .5*, R @ 1.2*) when I know that ain't right (have prior Hunter alignment rack results showing -1.0* L\R camber) so I'll need to redo at a later time. But the toe measurements were very good & showed why the slight pull to right (L tire was 1.0* in, R tire was .5* in w\ centerline toe being .05*.....positive center toe being towards R, neg center toe being towards left) thus car would drift right slightly on centered steering wheel thus had to pull slightly left of center on steering wheel to track car straight forward on city streets........but interestingly, on a 4-lane w\ center medium hwy at speed, she'd track straight w\o any input to steering wheel........could turn the steering wheel loose in either lane & car would track straight.......so maybe something to do w\ the degree of street crowns vs hwy crowns.....?
Shows thru the Gyraline app that a small -.5* adjustment should fix the toe alignment (L side was 23 T's, R side was 23 1\2 T's thus a 1\2 T out on L tire should get this close to .0* centerline toe) .......assuming the camber alignment is good.
Only thing this Gyraline app won't do is save visual copies of the screen results thus you have to write them down before moving on to the next task (erases the results as the app needs to be reset\restarted before doing the next task).
In closing, IMHO, this Gyraline Front\Rear Alignment kit is the real deal when it is used properly & consistently thus, I can see this definitely being\becoming a viable DIY alternative to shop alignments thus can save some real money..........especially if 1 had a full set of something like Race Ramps to drive car onto w\ a set of swivel plates to put under the front tires so they can be easily turned while on these ramps to get the car a little higher off the ground to make using this setup easier while providing access to underside of car to make adjustments.
My intended use is to make comparison measurements\quick checks to see if all stays good after a shop alignment & any repairs.
PS--After doing some reading\studying on Ackermann angles w\ a MacPherson front strut, leading arm steering rack front end (like our S197's......the type of front end design in use does matter), I now can see how bad tie rod ends\wheel hub bearings can cause the innermost edge of tire to get worn off like mine were when front wheels are angled while going thru turns........neg camber has nothing to do w\ this even though it is involved..........worn tie rods\wheel bearings will allow the back\off side tire to flare out of Ackermann tracking degree line due to caster wanting to pull tire back to center, causing the inner tire edge to drag\slip..........evidently it don't take much tie rod\wheel hub bearing wear to throw this out enough to eat up a tire's inner edge over time.
FYI...........FWIW....................
I've got a similar problem, nowhere to get an installer tool (GER), how long does the M12x1.5 10.9 bolt has to be to do your add-a-washer method? Thanks!
GlassTop09
Senior Member
Installed the radiator & water pump yesterday while I had at least a part of the day when the outside temps were tolerable (getting very cold at night & early morning now so only leaves approx 5-6 hrs of somewhat tolerable weather to get stuff done before the temps drop to nut freezing levels........)......was helped by having prior experience of installing the now leaking Mishimoto HP radiator back in 5-2020 (remove\install thru the bottom of car & not thru the top.......much, much easier to get around the A\C lines\condensor due to the thicker rad dimensions from under the car instead of thru the top).
While I had her out, I took a moment to visualize what was left to go thru to do the front timing refresh work w\ engine still in the car & all the possible scenarios if I ran into B1 guide being broken & the piece(s) got into the oil pan & how high I had the front of car off the ground.......quickly made decision to not try this now w\o picking up a couple of tools (a painters platform to stand on to be able to work the oil pump R&R from top of car & a support system to raise engine enough to remove the oil pan if needed........the support system I'm already working on for my upcoming EPAS conversion next year as I'm gonna also swap out the K-member--want it all to look OEM--have already ordered a Maximum Motorsports Engine Support bar & the necessary 2" cargo tie-down straps w\ steel hooks this bar is designed around to use the existing engine motor mount brackets to lift\support engine off strut towers & was waiting on the local HF to restock their 40" L x 20" H x 12" W painters platform--sold out at the time) & I really needed to fix the coolant leak now to be able to drive the car w\o having to be worrying about this.
Swapped in the Edelbrock HP water pump while doing this...........got lucky as the OEM pump essentially came right out using my hand\arm strength only & the Edelbrock unit went in & fully seated just as easy once I lubed up the O-ring (the OEM pump is now my spare). TQ'd all to spec & installed new Cold Case HP radiator.......she went in easier due to it being 1\4" thinner (2.75" instead of 3".......hardest part is unbolting\reattaching & clearing the top AC condensor mounts to radiator under the radiator core support). While I had all apart, I definitely got out my dielectric grease & liberally greased the cooling fan connector pins & socket so no corrosion would form & cause socket overheat (fan connector pins & sockets showed no signs of overheating, low speed fan resistor looks to have never been overheated & wire insulation showed to still be in good condition, so I know my in-tune cooling fan settings are doing exactly what they should be doing.......fan is only running at low fan speed below 33 MPH when HVAC is on & is only freewheeling once car exceeds 50 MPH thus high fan speed is never being used at all so I know my BEC should be in like new condition--running the 13-14 GT500 cooling fan for 4+ yrs........was installed w\ the Mishimoto HP radiator on 05-18-2020).
Took every bit of 3 gals of 09 MY Ford spec coolant (Zerex Gold) to refill\burp out system so all is well.........coolant is circulating & system is holding pressure just fine, so this part is now behind me.
Took all pertinent pictures of leaking rad while still mounted in car & after removal, actual rad serial number & CJ Pony Parts invoice proving I'm the original owner\purchaser & the car is the original car it was installed in & submitted the Mishimoto Lifetime Warranty claim form on Mishimoto's web site to see if I can hold them to their lifetime warranty claim on this part to get them to ship me a new replacement part (so I'll also have a new spare rad if successful........I know they're gonna try to find some loophole to try to get out of it since this has been in service for 4+ yrs.......so far, I've been able to stay 1 step ahead of them so we'll see)............but also, I filled out & sent in all pertinent receipt data & part numbers to register my new Cold Case HP rad w\ Cold Case (they also offer a lifetime warranty on their radiators as well........had done the same w\ Mishimoto back then.......but somehow they can't seem to find it........go figure....).
Now getting over the soreness in my hips, lower back & shoulders.......in addition to the carpal tunnel\arthritis in both hands\wrists & gout in both feet (take meds for this). This is what I have to talk myself into going thru in order to get stuff done nowadays..............Ben Gay & Epsom salt are my friends now........
Now I'll tackle the backup camera install next as I can do all this w\ car on the ground & fully under my carport (block off some of the cold from wind chill).
These San Juan\Rio Arriba Co gas fields in NW 4 Corners of NM can take a toll on your body over 26 yrs of near constant 4-wheel mud bogging\slogging around on muddy\snow-packed locations to do your job.......at least I got paid well in the process.
GlassTop09
Senior Member
FYI....................
Just put this new Cold Case HP radiator & Edelbrock HP water pump thru a drive this afternoon (went by my local Ford dealership to get w\ my fav service writer--he knows all the work history that I had Ford dealership do on my Stang since I bought it, including both prior front end alignments--on availability to do another front end alignment.........showed him the YT video I posted here & informed him of the parts that I found bad & all parts I replaced along w\ the tires.........got her scheduled to go in 1st thing tomorrow morning for alignment so we'll find out if the caster or camber needs to be touched as none of this was disturbed or moved since last alignment on 6-8-22 so expecting only toe to be reset since I replaced all of the tie rods on both sides............) then hooked up my Foxwell NT301 scan tool to check the ECT at idle w\ HVAC off while parked in my driveway........ECT was at 199*F w\ cooling fan shut off.......so cooling fan was not running as long as the car was moving & stationary for at least 15-20 mins (in-tune low fan speed control settings w\ HVAC off is enable @ 210*F, disable @ 208*F). The best my Mishimoto HP rad would do in same scenario was 199*F as well so no difference......but when I turned HVAC on so cooling fan will run at low speed continuously while parked, the idle ECT dropped down to 192*F after 15 mins of idling.
Checked my records & found that the best the Mishimoto ever did under same operating scenario was 195*F.....
So, this Cold Case HP radiator's 2-rows of 1" W tubes on 16 fins\in fin density core design is indeed showing to be a better overall performer vs the Mishimoto's 3-rows of 1/2" W tubes on 15 fins\in fin density core design..........now how much of this can be given to the Edelbrock HP WP's supposedly improved coolant flow rate\even block distribution (what was advertised on Edelbrock's web site) vs an OEM Ford WP I can't say (both operated thru the same Steeda Underdrive Pulley setup), but the results are speaking for themselves..........
So, if anyone is in the market for a solid replacement HP radiator, this Cold Case S197 2-row HP Aluminum radiator is IMHO a good choice, shows to be a better overall performer due to its core design & is currently cheaper (currently reg price is $387.95 + tax, I paid $362.22 + tax BF sale.....if memory serves me, in 4-2020 this same Cold Case unit was going for around $660.95 + tax w\ the Ford Performance equivalent over $700.00 +) than the more popular comparative Mishimoto S197 3-row HP Aluminum radiator (now currently at $406.85 + tax.........up from the $257.95 + tax I paid for it back in 4-2020).
Blue03Cobra
Junior Member
Had some downtime, so sent the 'stang to MI-6 and had "Q" do some upgrades...
GlassTop09
Senior Member
Got car realigned this morning & provided the results below.................all came out as I had thought it would after inspection\repairs were done. Only needed L\R toe reset.......once toe was corrected, the rest was still good & fell back in line.
This also showed that the Gyraline Alignment kit was in the ballpark concerning toe as well (L front wheel was out of spec from L\R inner\outer tie rod replacements......even though I counted the outer tie rod thread rotations closely on both sides & measured replacement inner tie rods for length compliance\accuracy) & it also proves that the inner tire edge wear like I had is a result of R tire getting pulled out of Ackermann angle tracking line from R worn\loose tie rods & loose R wheel hub bearing while turning L causing this wear.......not due to neg camber even though neg camber is in play on R tire during L turns.
So, now that I have a verified good front alignment, gonna whip out the Gyraline tool soon & capture all the angles to then use as reference for future.
FYI........................
While at the dealership, I looked into getting a replacement oil filter adapter assembly just in case mine is found to be corroded (don't believe it is.......but....) while in process of repairing the small oil leak (coming from under the bolt head that is just above the top oil passage port......the very common oil leak point due to the original gasket design) that's been there since I bought the car..........found that Ford has discontinued these (so EBay is your friend in finding this kind of stuff now) but I also checked to see if the info I heard\read on YouTube of Ford redesigning this gasket was true.........found that this is indeed true (dealership had them in stock). So, I picked 1 up to use to fix this issue on my Stang, hopefully for good.
They're made of metal now instead of plastic w\ metal inserts at the bolt holes & new Ford redesigned gasket now actually seals the oil filter adapter housing mounting bolt holes as well as the coolant\oil ports so once this new redesigned gasket is installed, this issue should now be eliminated going forward.
Sometimes it pays to check w\ the local Ford dealership for updated parts availability for these Modulars.........this is another instance of Ford upgrading components\parts well after Modular production runs are over.
Forty61
forum member
Fired it up after multiple weeks, took it up and down the street with the kids, they loved it. Now it’s on jack stands in the driveway so I can change the front hubs/bearings and hopefully cure the steering shake I’ve been chasing forever. Then realized I don’t have the 36mm socket and the new hubs don’t come with new spindle nuts.. for some reason I figured they would. So gotta get those tomorrow!
Midlife Crises
Senior Member
Received a new set of Ford Performance roller followers and lash adjusters.
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