What should this cost?

[mynameismike65]

Install of.....Tokico D specs, FRPP springs, panhard bar, bump steer kit?

 

[Miracle]

Free.

DIY, or not at all. Simple hand tools, and a jack/jackstands will be all you need. Plus, you get to learn more about suspension systems, and doing stuff for yourself.

If you don't, give or take... looking at maybe 500 or more to install.

 

[94tbird]

+1 on doing it yourself. you can rent the tools at autozone for free

 

[GrnBullitt08]

+1 on the self install. Its cake and wont take you very long. A shop would probably charge you around $350-$400 to install all that.

 

[jroc07gt]

It's not cake lol, but very doable.

 

[GrnBullitt08]

Lol well it's not very hard. I pulled my springs and struts out and put new springs in + the panhard in 2 hrs. Haven't played with a bump steer kit yet.

 

[mynameismike65]

Lol well it's not very hard. I pulled my springs and struts out and put new springs in + the panhard in 2 hrs. Haven't played with a bump steer kit yet.

I have never done anything this "in depth". This is the first vehicle I have ever modded. Not sure if I want to break my suspension cherry on this car haha.

 

[lonebear]

I wimped out and had the local Ford dealer do most of my work, they were very reasonable. Not sure but I think the bumpsteer is time consuming to get adjusted properly. You didn't mention camber plates. Now's the time to do it.

 

[LuckyH]

It's really easy. For anyone who feels they might be getting in over their head there are plenty of write ups out there. I suggest starting with the back if its your first time. You'll see just how easy it is. Both rear springs took maybe 45min. after getting the car on stands. The fronts are harder, but not in terms of skill needed. It's just more time consuming since you have to use a spring compressor and more parts are disassembled. You can rent a compressor from your local auto store for free (they just ask for a deposit that can be made by credit card).

Edit: if you can put on and take off your intake, you can do this. It's all the same, just bolts and nuts.

 

[GrnBullitt08]

The fronts arent too bad....(4) 10mm bolt on the top of strut tower (which are under the hood) that hold the strut in place. Then two bolts that tie the strut tower to the rotor and brake assembly, plus another 10mm bolt that holds the break lines to the strut tower....and the strut tower pulls right out.

Next, rent a spring compressor and compress the front springs off, replace the with the new springs then repeat the steps stated above to put the struts and springs back in.

For the rears just drop the sway bar, and put jackstands under the rear frame of the car. Place the jack on the rearend housing and unbolt the rear shocks. Once they are lose lower the rear end down via the jack and pull the springs out. Replace with new springs and repeat steps the process to bolt everything back together.

Its easy and will save ya 300-400.

 

[Miracle]

The fronts arent too bad....(4) 10mm bolt on the top of strut tower (which are under the hood) that hold the strut in place. Then two bolts that tie the strut tower to the rotor and brake assembly, plus another 10mm bolt that holds the break lines to the strut tower....and the strut tower pulls right out.

Next, rent a spring compressor and compress the front springs off, replace the with the new springs then repeat the steps stated above to put the struts and springs back in.

For the rears just drop the sway bar, and put jackstands under the rear frame of the car. Place the jack on the rearend housing and unbolt the rear shocks. Once they are lose lower the rear end down via the jack and pull the springs out. Replace with new springs and repeat steps the process to bolt everything back together.

Its easy and will save ya 300-400.

Good shit... and I know I'm nitpicking here... but the 8mm/15mm nut/stud to remove to detach the sway bar endlink off the strut body. And you don't have to detach the sway bar for the rears... they pull straight out.

 

[GrnBullitt08]

I think if you dont detach the sway bar the rear axle wont lower to pull the springs out....I could be wrong though. I always just detached it assuming that it was in the way.

 

[Miracle]

Not when I did mine... the sway bar does nothing to keep the rear end up... the shocks are what you have to disconnect to get the rear end to drop enough to pull the springs out.

 

[GrnBullitt08]

Sweet good to know....I'll remember that if I ever change my springs again.

 

[Wicked One]

If you have a vert, you need to take off the support arms that go from the spare tire well to the rocker arm, otherwise you cannot lower the rear enough to get the springs out.

 

[Vapour Trails]

Install of.....Tokico D specs, FRPP springs, panhard bar, bump steer kit?

I'd guess 4-6 hours labour.

 

[JeremyH]

If you have a vert, you need to take off the support arms that go from the spare tire well to the rocker arm, otherwise you cannot lower the rear enough to get the springs out.

I didnt on my vert. Car was on the lift, remove the shock top bolts in the truck, unbolted the sway bar links from the frame and lowered the rear down and let it rest on the stock subframes. You can sliighty compress and pull the spring right out, now it might be a little tricky getting the stock spring back in, but i put the frpp lowering spring right in with no problems.

 

[JeremyH]

The fronts arent too bad....(4) 10mm bolt on the top of strut tower (which are under the hood) that hold the strut in place. Then two bolts that tie the strut tower to the rotor and brake assembly, plus another 10mm bolt that holds the break lines to the strut tower....and the strut tower pulls right out.

Next, rent a spring compressor and compress the front springs off, replace the with the new springs then repeat the steps stated above to put the struts and springs back in.

No need for spring compressor, the trick is to leave the upper strut mount in the car, its a much easier way. Jack the front up, remove the wheels. Remove the brake line support tab and swaybar endlink from the strut. Remove only the top center strut bolt and the bottom 2 stut bolts where it mounts to the spindle, and the the strut/spring pulls right out. Take the d-spec put the frpp spring on it and transfer over the stop from the stock strut (if d-specs dont come with new ones) and slide it into the strut mount get one of the lower spindle bolts slid back through the strut as you push the strut/spring assembly in, put the top strut bolt on and get a few threads started on it, finish bolting everyhting back togrther underneath and then tighten the top bolt. From start to finish and 2 guys takes about 20min per side if you know what your doing.

 

[Greg Hazlett]

You don't need a spring compressor to do the fronts..there is a video showing how a shop does it and it involves moving the A arm out of the way and the strut/spring falls out..did it myself with Jeremy helping in 2 hours.

As others have said the rears are easy, no special tools need for that. Good time to upgrade the LCA's while you are back there.

 

[JeremyH]

Not when I did mine... the sway bar does nothing to keep the rear end up... the shocks are what you have to disconnect to get the rear end to drop enough to pull the springs out.

Yes it does, the shocks, uca and rear sway bar links (where it bolt to the frame) hold the rear in. Just depends on how your doing it wether u need to unbolt the rear sway links or not. But it does hold the rear up.