Which Fuse For Gauges?

jsimmonstx

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I'm installing aftermarket gauges in my 2012 V6 base coupe, and I have to connect a wire to an circuit that is only active while the cur is running. According to the owner's manual, two fuses is marked as "run/start":

29 (5A) - camera (which my car isn't equipped with)
35 (10A) - aux body module

There are also several fuse locations that are marked as "not used". Are any of those only active when the car is running? The following positions are marks as not used:

1 (30A) Rear window (convertible only, so I could this as a spare)
2 (15A)
13 (5A)
16 (15A)
18 (20A)
33 (10A)
37 (10A)
38 (20A)
40 (20A)
42 (10A)
44 (10A)
47 (30A CB)

I'd rather use a spare location than to tap one that's already in use. Are any of the spares suitable for this?
 

Ampire

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The way to check if it is active would be to probe the connectors and see if there is current when the engine is started and not when the engine is off. If the fuse is adequate for the gauges, I don't see a problem using a spare but I am also not an electrical engineer. Another way to do it would be to splice into a stereo amp turn on wire or ignition accessory wire if there is one.
 
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jsimmonstx

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Yeah - my 30-year-old test light finally died, and I had to jury rig something up using an old illuminated toggle switch and some solderless connectors. BTW, none of the spare locations appears to be a start/run circuit. How stupid is that?

EDIT =================

I thought I'd mention that because of where I put the temperature sensor, I initially thought my temp gauge wasn't working. The 2011/12 GT and V6 do NOT come with a temperature sensor, so I got a metal sleeve that was welded to accept a sending unit. Because of this, I don't get the gradual build-up of temperture, and instead, you have to wait until the thermostat which allows water to move from the motor to the radiator. At that moment, you get a temperature reading. It seemed to settle at about 200 degrees.
 
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Ampire

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Strange that the spare's don't run on a ignition turn on. When i was into car audio, I used the stereo power on wire to turn on my system. I am sure it wouldn't be hard to tap into any of those sort of accessories for a power on. If you just want to get things working, a crude way to do it is just to have a switch instead.
 

jsimmonstx

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Gauges are working, but I couldn't use any of the spares - I used #35.

BTW, the add-a-circuit dohicky was only rated to 10 amps, so I was kinda limited in my selection since I wanted to leave the correctly rated fuse in the add-a-circuit.
 

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