Will a 2010+ interior fit in an 05-09? Yes..
Well will it fit?
Why or Why not?
EDIT: Short answer, yes it will fit...
Long answer...
The entire cars wiring has to be changed in order to make this work. I am sure there are some electrical engineering guru's that could make this work another way, but that's not me. And it seemed a lot easier to just swap the body harness.
I removed my long block so that I could run new A/C lines. The firewall has to be cut where the new style A/C lines connect to the heater box. The adapter block is no longer horizontal and is now vertical. So the cut had to be made to allow for it. Also, the padding on the back side of the foam of the dual climate control blower box had to be cut as well to the proper shape of the foam on the inside firewall.
The brake booster was swapped as well, the new one wasn't much different but had to be clocked different to align with the holes properly, but bolted right up along with the master cylinder.
Inside the car, got a little more in depth. Since this is where all the big changes were made with the connectors and such.
I will start with the dash. I got lucky enough and found a dash on eBay that had the wire harness still attached to it. So I didn't have to worry about that harness. The Airbag module has been relocated from under the stereo to right before the center console arm rest area. This was one part that wasn't ready for it, so a self tapping screw and it was in place. The other things that needed to be replaced were the pedal assemblies. They changed the pigtail for the clutch and brake switch that is on the pedal assembly. I went to replace just the switch and when I went to twist it into place, they had realigned the spots where it would fit and twist in. So instead I elected to buy a new pedal assembly also. I am sure I could have made the switch work, but I like OEM stuff. It is less to chase around later.
Then moving onto the doors. This was probably the second biggest pita. The 2005's door latches, locks, door handle wire, and door closed switch are all separate component sort of thrown together all having separate pigtails. The new unit is one mass all molded together with one pigtail. I was hoping that I would be able to re-wire the 2005 components to operate from the new harness. However, after several attempts I gave up. I bought the driver and passenger side latch assemblies, plugged them right in and they worked. The lock stems however are two short and won't reach through the upper door lock caps. O'well, don't think I ever used them for anything anyways. The window switches also needed to be changed out. For two reasons, one, the new ones are blue, and more importantly, however the new switches work is different than the older ones. When I plugged the old switches in, it blew the fuse. The other big change is the harness for the window motor. Luckily the new window motor fits the old window regulator. The only minor modification was I had to drill out the mounting point to allow for the old style mounting bolts. No big deal, it was plastic. Then I just had to attach the pigtail and bolt it back to the door. It's tight but it fits. The door locks and mirrors control work without changing, however, I swapped them so that it would now match the blue back lighting of the new interior.
The door panels fit perfect. The mounting holes only line up in 3 places. So you have to be creative here. However, I still have yet to put anymore bolts in and the door panel doesn't rattle or feel loose, so it may stay this way until I get a lot of extra time to worry about it. The hump people are concerned with isn't noticeable enough to even car. I at first thought it was going to be the biggest eye sore of all. But after putting them on and seeing it there, I realized it looks factory and unless someone is looking for it, no one would ever know.
The interior of the car is identical parts, a-pillars are a different design, but fit perfect, rear upper and lower panels same, rear deck lid fits perfect, headliner fits perfect... Everything used preexisting holds and bolts. Even the center console area. E-Brake is the same design, just different handle cover and boot. But under it all, the shaper is identical.
Moving to the trunk area. The rear lights of the new cars are LED. The tails of the older cars are regular bulbs. As one would suspect, the current draw on a bulb is a lot greater than the LED, so when a bulb would touch the LED circuit it would blow and the battery of the car would have to unplugged and plugged back for the controller board to reset. There are a couple of ways I could have made this work. Since the stock harness is already for sequential, each light has it's own wire which controls is independently. I could have ran relay in between each bulb and had the stock style sequence. However, I have had a meter4it kit for a long time now and I prefer the chase option of the sequence. So I called up the guy who created the meter4it kit and spoke with him for a while about how his kit works. It's pretty simple when it comes down to it. Basically it's a box of relays that only needs 1 pulse in order to activate it's sequence. So that's what I elected to do. This way I only needed 1 relay per side of the car and then the control box from meter4it. So basically I took the inside bulb's wires, ran relays in between them and they are what activate the meter4it box, giving me chase rather than stock style sequential.
After that I moved on to the evap system. I have been wanting to rid of that damn thing for years, just never got around to it. Well wouldn't you guess that they changed the pigtails on it as well, so it was either buy a new evap system or get rid of it. Now it was time to remove it. So that's what I did.
My stock airbag fit the steering wheel perfect. But after looking at it with the new interior it just stuck out to much so it was back to ebay to get ripped off on a new airbag to match. Luckily I was able to sell my old airbag for about the same cost as the new style.
I was hoping to win the auction for the racaro's the guy had for sale on eBay, but just wasn't able to make it work. The bad part was I had already sold my stock shit... oops... Luckily our very own Holywd had some back seats for sale so I picked them up and then our other member has some Sparco's for sale and I was able to snatch them up. I am actual more happy with the Sparco's cause they matched all the stitching perfectly.
Of course there were a lot of other little parts I had to buy, like GPS antenna, radio antenna, ect...
FAQ...
Where did you buy your parts? Craigslist, eBay, and A TON from Tousleyfordparts.com
Was it cheap? FUCK NO!!!
Was it worth it? For me it was
Would you do it again? HELL NO!!! Well for the right price
NOTICE THE SPLIT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE BLOWER BOX FOR DUAL CLIMATE CONTROL.
My Girls 5.0 that was taken apart a bunch of times for me to check wiring... She didn't like that to much. haha
Well will it fit?
Why or Why not?
EDIT: Short answer, yes it will fit...
Long answer...
The entire cars wiring has to be changed in order to make this work. I am sure there are some electrical engineering guru's that could make this work another way, but that's not me. And it seemed a lot easier to just swap the body harness.
I removed my long block so that I could run new A/C lines. The firewall has to be cut where the new style A/C lines connect to the heater box. The adapter block is no longer horizontal and is now vertical. So the cut had to be made to allow for it. Also, the padding on the back side of the foam of the dual climate control blower box had to be cut as well to the proper shape of the foam on the inside firewall.
The brake booster was swapped as well, the new one wasn't much different but had to be clocked different to align with the holes properly, but bolted right up along with the master cylinder.
Inside the car, got a little more in depth. Since this is where all the big changes were made with the connectors and such.
I will start with the dash. I got lucky enough and found a dash on eBay that had the wire harness still attached to it. So I didn't have to worry about that harness. The Airbag module has been relocated from under the stereo to right before the center console arm rest area. This was one part that wasn't ready for it, so a self tapping screw and it was in place. The other things that needed to be replaced were the pedal assemblies. They changed the pigtail for the clutch and brake switch that is on the pedal assembly. I went to replace just the switch and when I went to twist it into place, they had realigned the spots where it would fit and twist in. So instead I elected to buy a new pedal assembly also. I am sure I could have made the switch work, but I like OEM stuff. It is less to chase around later.
Then moving onto the doors. This was probably the second biggest pita. The 2005's door latches, locks, door handle wire, and door closed switch are all separate component sort of thrown together all having separate pigtails. The new unit is one mass all molded together with one pigtail. I was hoping that I would be able to re-wire the 2005 components to operate from the new harness. However, after several attempts I gave up. I bought the driver and passenger side latch assemblies, plugged them right in and they worked. The lock stems however are two short and won't reach through the upper door lock caps. O'well, don't think I ever used them for anything anyways. The window switches also needed to be changed out. For two reasons, one, the new ones are blue, and more importantly, however the new switches work is different than the older ones. When I plugged the old switches in, it blew the fuse. The other big change is the harness for the window motor. Luckily the new window motor fits the old window regulator. The only minor modification was I had to drill out the mounting point to allow for the old style mounting bolts. No big deal, it was plastic. Then I just had to attach the pigtail and bolt it back to the door. It's tight but it fits. The door locks and mirrors control work without changing, however, I swapped them so that it would now match the blue back lighting of the new interior.
The door panels fit perfect. The mounting holes only line up in 3 places. So you have to be creative here. However, I still have yet to put anymore bolts in and the door panel doesn't rattle or feel loose, so it may stay this way until I get a lot of extra time to worry about it. The hump people are concerned with isn't noticeable enough to even car. I at first thought it was going to be the biggest eye sore of all. But after putting them on and seeing it there, I realized it looks factory and unless someone is looking for it, no one would ever know.
The interior of the car is identical parts, a-pillars are a different design, but fit perfect, rear upper and lower panels same, rear deck lid fits perfect, headliner fits perfect... Everything used preexisting holds and bolts. Even the center console area. E-Brake is the same design, just different handle cover and boot. But under it all, the shaper is identical.
Moving to the trunk area. The rear lights of the new cars are LED. The tails of the older cars are regular bulbs. As one would suspect, the current draw on a bulb is a lot greater than the LED, so when a bulb would touch the LED circuit it would blow and the battery of the car would have to unplugged and plugged back for the controller board to reset. There are a couple of ways I could have made this work. Since the stock harness is already for sequential, each light has it's own wire which controls is independently. I could have ran relay in between each bulb and had the stock style sequence. However, I have had a meter4it kit for a long time now and I prefer the chase option of the sequence. So I called up the guy who created the meter4it kit and spoke with him for a while about how his kit works. It's pretty simple when it comes down to it. Basically it's a box of relays that only needs 1 pulse in order to activate it's sequence. So that's what I elected to do. This way I only needed 1 relay per side of the car and then the control box from meter4it. So basically I took the inside bulb's wires, ran relays in between them and they are what activate the meter4it box, giving me chase rather than stock style sequential.
After that I moved on to the evap system. I have been wanting to rid of that damn thing for years, just never got around to it. Well wouldn't you guess that they changed the pigtails on it as well, so it was either buy a new evap system or get rid of it. Now it was time to remove it. So that's what I did.
My stock airbag fit the steering wheel perfect. But after looking at it with the new interior it just stuck out to much so it was back to ebay to get ripped off on a new airbag to match. Luckily I was able to sell my old airbag for about the same cost as the new style.
I was hoping to win the auction for the racaro's the guy had for sale on eBay, but just wasn't able to make it work. The bad part was I had already sold my stock shit... oops... Luckily our very own Holywd had some back seats for sale so I picked them up and then our other member has some Sparco's for sale and I was able to snatch them up. I am actual more happy with the Sparco's cause they matched all the stitching perfectly.
Of course there were a lot of other little parts I had to buy, like GPS antenna, radio antenna, ect...
FAQ...
Where did you buy your parts? Craigslist, eBay, and A TON from Tousleyfordparts.com
Was it cheap? FUCK NO!!!
Was it worth it? For me it was
Would you do it again? HELL NO!!! Well for the right price
NOTICE THE SPLIT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE BLOWER BOX FOR DUAL CLIMATE CONTROL.
My Girls 5.0 that was taken apart a bunch of times for me to check wiring... She didn't like that to much. haha
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