Dual Fuel Pumps 2010 GT

Candy10

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Looking to add some boost while my car is getting it’s other upgrades done, but I’ll need more fuel. This FRPP kit M-9407-GT05 will fit and work but will result in a faulty fuel level reading. I can’t seem to find a part number for the ‘10. Maybe there isn’t one

Anyone know how the fuel reading can be fixed, if it can be? Or have other recommendations for pump upgrades?
 

Midlife Crises

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You will not find the equivalent FRPP kit for the 2010. The M-9407-GT05 kit will work fine. You have to adapt your original sending unit to fit on the new dual pump mount. I used small machine screws with nylock nuts to mount the plastic sending unit and float to the new pump support bracket.
 

ESP41

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Anyone have feedback/thoughts on this Holley unit? If it’s a legit piece, that’s a helluva deal

https://www.holley.com/products/fue...efi_fuel_pumps/efi_in-tank_pumps/parts/12-950


FWIW, I am running this pump in my 2010 E85 4.6l NA Race car. Two seasons and no issues yet. Unfortunately for us 2010 owners there are not many " clean bolt on" options in a lot of performance parts areas. Its likely best you try to reuse your whole fuel pump cradle or at least the fuel sending part(float).
 

Pentalab

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Will the GT-500 dual fuel pump fit in the 2010 GT ?? If it does, that would /should provide for enough fuel. If the dual GT-500 fuel pump still didn't have enough capacity, a dual BAP....and big ga wire back to the battery would do the trick...like if using E85.
 

Midlife Crises

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Will the GT-500 dual fuel pump fit in the 2010 GT
Yes. The GT 500 pump hat will fit in the 2010 GT and the internal crossover and external fuel line hooks right up. The FRPP kit has an adapter harness, extra fuel pump control module and relay that are easy to install. The problem is the 2010 GT has its own specific fuel level rheostat and float. It doesn’t matter who’s fuel pump setup you use. You have to retain the original rheostat and float to have a working fuel gauge. The 2009 rheostat will not work and the 2011 will not work ether.
 

Candy10

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Yes. The GT 500 pump hat will fit in the 2010 GT and the internal crossover and external fuel line hooks right up. The FRPP kit has an adapter harness, extra fuel pump control module and relay that are easy to install. The problem is the 2010 GT has its own specific fuel level rheostat and float. It doesn’t matter who’s fuel pump setup you use. You have to retain the original rheostat and float to have a working fuel gauge. The 2009 rheostat will not work and the 2011 will not work ether.

Yeah, parts for the ‘10 are becoming a real bitch to source. Since I missed the Holley, I’m gonna go ahead and have the shop reuse my stock assembly, just replacing the pump. Haven’t decided on a size/flow rate yet, but he likes to use Walbro stuff. Only costing me a bit of labor, another drop in the bucket
 

Midlife Crises

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size/flow rate
For my set up I’m using two DW 340 in the GT 500 bracket. No problems.
There is a very knowledgeable fuel expert that frequents these pages. I have no experience with him but he is well respected in fueling mustangs. Maybe someone will post his contact information.
 

DieHarder

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Yeah, parts for the ‘10 are becoming a real bitch to source. Since I missed the Holley, I’m gonna go ahead and have the shop reuse my stock assembly, just replacing the pump. Haven’t decided on a size/flow rate yet, but he likes to use Walbro stuff. Only costing me a bit of labor, another drop in the bucket

I have a DOB kit and use a walbro 405 that came with the it. Works fine and good up to 600 hp if I remember correctly. You'll have to upgrade the FPDM wiring and wire in a relay to handle the higher current requirements.
 

Candy10

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I have a DOB kit and use a walbro 405 that came with the it. Works fine and good up to 600 hp if I remember correctly. You'll have to upgrade the FPDM wiring and wire in a relay to handle the higher current requirements.
Don’t know if I’ll ever see 600, so that might be a good fit, thanks.
 

Candy10

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Seems Walbro has a bit of a supply chain issue right now so we are going with a DW400. Seen some bad reviews about them going out after only a few thousand miles, but we’ll see. Car was driven only 1200 miles last year, so that’s at least a couple years of fun lol.

Now to finalize decisions on injector size and pulley size. How much boost do I want to throw at it?
 

DieHarder

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Seems Walbro has a bit of a supply chain issue right now so we are going with a DW400. Seen some bad reviews about them going out after only a few thousand miles, but we’ll see. Car was driven only 1200 miles last year, so that’s at least a couple years of fun lol.

Now to finalize decisions on injector size and pulley size. How much boost do I want to throw at it?

Depends... is your engine stock or built? If built, to what HP level? What kind of blower/turbo will you use? If stock; recommend 5 - 6 lbs (about 400 - 450 hp) and you have to have a tune unless you want a blown engine (no exceptions). Use Lito; best in the biz. Many/most of us have his tunes in our cars.
 

Candy10

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Depends... is your engine stock or built? If built, to what HP level? What kind of blower/turbo will you use? If stock; recommend 5 - 6 lbs (about 400 - 450 hp) and you have to have a tune unless you want a blown engine (no exceptions). Use Lito; best in the biz. Many/most of us have his tunes in our cars.
Block is a built 4.6, good for 900hp, I will never get anywhere close to that. Running a Kenne Bell 2.6. The car was last tuned by Bob Kurgen, and he got all he could out of it, said the MAF was maxed. I’ve addressed the air side of things with a Cobra meter and bigger KB throttle body, so now fuel is the choke point. The car made 476whp at 11.8 lbs of boost (before MAF and tb). I do know I’ll probably get a few pulleys to test with, but have to decide if I want/need 47 or 60 lb injectors. Whatever I get on that side, I’m sticking with. I’ve sunk enough money into this 4.6 (shoulda built a coyote), this is the last push.
 

DieHarder

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Block is a built 4.6, good for 900hp, I will never get anywhere close to that. Running a Kenne Bell 2.6. The car was last tuned by Bob Kurgen, and he got all he could out of it, said the MAF was maxed. I’ve addressed the air side of things with a Cobra meter and bigger KB throttle body, so now fuel is the choke point. The car made 476whp at 11.8 lbs of boost (before MAF and tb). I do know I’ll probably get a few pulleys to test with, but have to decide if I want/need 47 or 60 lb injectors. Whatever I get on that side, I’m sticking with. I’ve sunk enough money into this 4.6 (shoulda built a coyote), this is the last push.

Sounds like quite the motor. I'd like to get more out of mine. Have a 2nd gen DOB kit w/M-122/GT-500 FRPP throttle body on a stock block but she runs well and fast enough to get me in lots of trouble though that HP bug is always there. In your case I'd probably go w/the 60 lb injectors since you're built for it. BTW, how much did you drop on the block and what would be your recommendations (what would I need/list of parts/manufacturers) if I wanted to get say ~600hp out of my motor? I'd like to do a short block and build the rest myself as the most economical way I'd imagine. Got any pics? Thanks :snoopy
 

dark steed

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There is a very knowledgeable fuel expert that frequents these pages. I have no experience with him but he is well respected in fueling mustangs. Maybe someone will post his contact information.
I believe you are referring to @JeremyH
I haven’t seen him around here in a while, I think he was stationed to Italy late last year/early this year.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Candy10

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Sounds like quite the motor. I'd like to get more out of mine. Have a 2nd gen DOB kit w/M-122/GT-500 FRPP throttle body on a stock block but she runs well and fast enough to get me in lots of trouble though that HP bug is always there. In your case I'd probably go w/the 60 lb injectors since you're built for it. BTW, how much did you drop on the block and what would be your recommendations (what would I need/list of parts/manufacturers) if I wanted to get say ~600hp out of my motor? I'd like to do a short block and build the rest myself as the most economical way I'd imagine. Got any pics? Thanks :snoopy

Honestly, the short block was put together in an emergency situation, I threw the rods out of the stock block 7 weeks before moving cross country. So I don’t know exactly what parts were used as far as rods/pistons/rings, I just found a used block and had L&R in Santa Fe Springs, CA build what he saw fit. I do know the builder used ARP everything, upgraded the oil pump, and lowered compression a bit from 9.8 to 9.5 for the boost. Under different circumstances, I’d probably have opted for a Coyote swap.

Junkyard block was $800 iirc, and he built it for around $5500. This was almost 4 years ago
 

DieHarder

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Fu....., God man; so sorry. What a tragedy. Who was helping you tune it?

On the bright side (if you can afford it); you now have a great excuse to go for a Coyote or GT500 build.
 

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