Engine Rebuild Questions

Vonvirgo1

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Has anyone done a full rebuild on their own engine? I am going to be doing my own rebuild soon and wanted to link up with someone who has done one.

I have built engines before but they were short blocks. I have technical experience and all the necessary tools.

Anyone who would be willing to talk about this on the phone or Discord?
 

Midlife Crises

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I had no problem at all when I rebuild my engine, at home. I took the easy route and purchased a complete rotating assembly and installed it in my block. The only machining I had to do was hone for the new pistons. If you have a hi mileage engine you may need more machining on the block and probably the heads freshened up as well. Just normal engine overhaul practices.
 

RED09GT

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There is a sticky that has ford's 3v assembly manual. I used that along with some of the other things I'd read on this site.

I would argue that assembling a custom machined mod motor is easier than with a small block ford as you have no worries about getting things like rocker arm geometry and pushrod length correct.

If you need help, let us know by PM. I'm sure that a lot of people will be willing to help.
 

msvela448

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I have built several 3v 4.6's... Probably the most comprehensive write up I've ever seen is located here:
https://www.modularfords.com/threads/aluminator-gibtec-build.236857/

Go buy the Sean Hyland book:

https://www.amazon.com/Hyland-Max-Performance-4-6-Ljter-Engines-Paperback/dp/B00SCUMNPU

Do it right the first time, don't take shortcuts, use genuine Motorcraft seals and timing components and brand / mainstream other parts (crank, rods, pistons). A quality set of torque wrenches is a must. I'd recommend a rod bolt stretch gauge too. Use ARP bolts and studs as much as you can afford.

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
 

kdog

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Just got my 07 done and 100 miles on it. msvela448 is 100% correct. I used DNJ rebuild kit with coyote rods. The problem is a phaser is bent. It buried itself into the camshaft and now I am getting Genuine Ford parts to fix it. So Ford shit is the way to go, unless you like doing things a couple times. I'm running a Vortech so i have a a little more time in it than you will. I have 130 hours in it. That is pulling it stripping to bare block and rebuilding everything including valves springs and all. The phrase "while your there you might as well replace _____." will haunt your wallet for years. But if you buy it once you only cry once. You will wrap $2k in it pretty quickly. If you can afford a rotating assembly that will be great. If not, the coyote rods and stock pistons will be strong enough and can be had pretty reasonable. MIC and plastic gauge everything. Take your time, especially when you get close to the end. The last 8 hours of hooking everything up couldn't go fast enough. You want to hear it run sooo bad. If you would like to chat more I'll get you my email.
 

BottleRocket

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I just picked up a used 3V for $200 from a guy in Tucson. He went to a Coyote and didn't need this any longer. It's a long block with heads. My plan is to have the heads fully ported and bump the compression as high as I can go safely (possibly 10-10.5:1?). I plan on pulling and wrapping my original motor (it's only original once), and pulling my Hot Rod cams for my new motor. I realize there are better cams out there but I love the sound of the Hot Rods. This will be an NA motor, I don't want to deal with super chargers and this is also my daily driver. I just picked up a set of 4.10s to replace my 3.55s and I've already installed BBK long tubes/BBK high flow cat mid pipe.
 
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RED09GT

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My plan is to have the heads fully ported and bump the compression as high as I can go safely (possibly 10-10.5:1?).
11+ is easily do-able with these motors and 91 or 93 pump gas N/A. If you have E85, you can make 11+ work with a power adder as well.
 

whitmanink

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what rods will work with a 4.6 that are coyote? and any links to them so i can buy some,
whats the engine rated for , safe rwhp when the rods are replaced sith 5.0 rods?
that might just be the way to go for me depending on numbers
 

1ohiostang

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I'm running 10.25 compression with a paxton you'll be fine n/a. Modmax has a nice selection of rod's for you
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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what rods will work with a 4.6 that are coyote? and any links to them so i can buy some,
whats the engine rated for , safe rwhp when the rods are replaced sith 5.0 rods?
that might just be the way to go for me depending on numbers

The stock 4.6 3V connecting rods are effectively limited to 450rwtq. The Boss 302 forged steel rods (Ford part no. CR3Z6200B) are an inexpensive upgrade and drop right in. If you combine them with forged pistons, the next weak link would be the stock crankshaft but you'd need to be making over 700rwhp before thinking about going forged. The block can handle 1000rwhp.
The Boss 302 rods aren't the only OEM Ford parts that would be an upgrade on the 4.6 3V as you'll find out when you read this:

https://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Mustang2006GT/Engine.html
 
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Juice

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As much as I enjoy building a custom engine, knowing all the attention to detail that goes into a build. I have gone to the other side, just buy it assembled. Cost can get out of hand building.
Just a thought..
 

Cancerman

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You really don't save any money doing it yourself. The real reason to do it yourself is so you know exactly what's inside, and if you are doing something unusual. Or you own the correct machining equipment. Back in the days of old, you could order a engine kit from someone like PAW, and do a quick build. Those days are long gone. Buy a short or long block built to known specs, and finish it off with good new parts. You will get the expected results that way. Dino has the right idea, find the weakest link in the motor. If you can't fix that, you're done.
 

whitmanink

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You really don't save any money doing it yourself. The real reason to do it yourself is so you know exactly what's inside, and if you are doing something unusual. Or you own the correct machining equipment. Back in the days of old, you could order a engine kit from someone like PAW, and do a quick build. Those days are long gone. Buy a short or long block built to known specs, and finish it off with good new parts. You will get the expected results that way. Dino has the right idea, find the weakest link in the motor. If you can't fix that, you're done.


i think you couldnt be more wrong ... ive done so much engine work on all my cars that it does save money in labor costs alone,, like how could you say that?

sure ,,if you are all thumbs and cant do anything mechanical, than sure ,, pay your way i guess is the only way ,, i myself can save over $2000 in labor just by doing , my timing , head gaskets , cams , roller followers and clutch ,,, not to mention my wifes multiple outbacks which i had to pull the motor and do the timing and head gaskets,,, took me 2 weekends,, shop wanted $1600 ,, so 9 hrs of my time,, ..

sounds like a joe biden build back better plan to me,, makes no sense ,, like wiping your butt and than taking a crap,, yea?
 

whitmanink

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infact , next yr when i do my internals, im gonna do a write up with costs saved,, along with how to do it.... , using plastic gauge and calipers are your best friend,, and even still ,, leave a bit more clearance like i am to make it happy for boost..
 

DieHarder

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You really don't save any money doing it yourself. The real reason to do it yourself is so you know exactly what's inside, and if you are doing something unusual. Or you own the correct machining equipment. Back in the days of old, you could order a engine kit from someone like PAW, and do a quick build. Those days are long gone. Buy a short or long block built to known specs, and finish it off with good new parts. You will get the expected results that way. Dino has the right idea, find the weakest link in the motor. If you can't fix that, you're done.

Question: At current Ford labor costs of $57/hr (internet search est). How much do you figure you saved or not on your last rebuild? (Understanding of course, I don't know what the labor hours are for a full rebuild on a short or long block.) However, I'll hazard a ballpark cost between $5 - $8K if one was to drop a car off and pick it up a few weeks later. Lower/higher anyone?
 

Juice

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May save money, but not time.
I can have a crate engine uncrated, installed and running in a few hours if it is a direct replacement, longer if it is a swap build.
I saved all the time it would have taken to build the engine.
Done it both ways.
I may build a coyote, just out of curiosity. But only if the one I have develops issues of some type. Like it's been said, build if you want something very specific. But that's me.
 

Laga

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Question: At current Ford labor costs of $57/hr (internet search est). How much do you figure you saved or not on your last rebuild? (Understanding of course, I don't know what the labor hours are for a full rebuild on a short or long block.) However, I'll hazard a ballpark cost between $5 - $8K if one was to drop a car off and pick it up a few weeks later. Lower/higher anyone?
I have been pricing a rebuild for a couple of months now. Full forged bottom, new parts for timing, valve springs , etc. I’m not looking for more power so much as long term reliability with the supercharger. For parts and labor, it averages around $8K, without pulling the motor. That’s another $1200 for removal and reinstall. 2-3 years ago, I could have done much of the work myself. I am no longer capable, so I have to pony up the cash. There are two problems I am running into to. You have to wait 8-12 weeks for parts, and every single place I have gone to has a 3-5 month waiting list. Last guy I talked to said “ Yeah, I can do it, come back in August”. So I’m still looking.
 

Midlife Crises

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You really don't save any money doing it yourself
Wow? If you have the knowledge and tools how could you not save money. Plus you can use the parts you want for a specific purpose. Then there is the fact that in my neighborhood shop rates are from $150.00 to $200.00 or so an hour. I wouldn’t let anybody touch my car that only charged $57.00 an hour. :driver:
 

Vonvirgo1

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I guess this thread got slightly derailed. So my real question is what are some necessary or must do replacements to increase reliability. I want to stay stock with power but increase reliability.
 

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