AutoXRacer
forum member
The blocks will only fit in one of the slots… Need to pay careful attention to install them correctly and make sure they are slightly pressed fit in the correct slot. You don’t want any kind of movement/rotation.
Both phasers done
Driver side done
Installed the passenger side cylinder head and timing components
Oil pump with TSF gears
Verifying chain
So I was really worried about the timing of these modular motors, but I can tell you know that it’s the easiest thing since sliced bread!!!
As you see above, each timing chain has two dark (marker) chain links. All you do is align the dark chain links to the timing marks on the phasers and crank gear. Does not get any easier than that.
In order to degree your cams you need a solid lifter, so I took an old lifter out of my stock motor and measured the height. Then set my TFS adjustable solid lifter accordingly.
Install the solid lifter in one of the intake lifter bores, install your rocker, and you are ready to set up your dial indicator.
The dial indicator point will rest on the valve retainer; make sure you set this up with the valve at max lift.
I would highly suggest getting 2 sets of modular motor kits where you have two solid lifters and two rockers. It will save you a huge amount of time R&R parts…
So basically you will set your timing to -2, -4, -6, or +2, etc…once your timing is set, you will verify what your ICL (Intake Center Line) is…that’s basically all cam degree is. So you rotate the crank until you reach max lift, zero out the dial indicator, continue rotating the crank to make sure that you have set your dial indicator to exactly read “0” at max lift. Then you will take readings of the degree wheel at 50 before and after “0” (max lift).
You add the two numbers and then divide by 2 and that’s your ICL.
For example, my numbers with -4 degrees came out to 143.5 and 75.5 which gave me an ICL of 109.5.
Make sure you get the same ICL on both heads/sides/cams. It is OK to be off by up to 1 degree; some say even up to 2 is OK. But I would try to get them within 0.5 degree.
Once you are done and are 100% confident of your results and have set your timing to your targeted ICL, just return the crank to TDC and keep building!!
I installed all my valve train parts and goobered it up with Red Line assembly lube. If I knew before hand that I was going to have to prime the motor before startup, I would have used a lot less.
Freedom Racing valve spring compressor, a must tool for anyone working with valve train!!
Heads done!!! Time to seal her up!! I installed the front cover (don’t forget to install your trigger wheel!!)
Since I completely removed the VCT solenoid, I was left with a reaping hole in my valve covers. I contracted a local machine shop artist to make me something (freeze plug type plug) to plug up my hole. Lol This is what he came up with:
It was a press fit, he also made me a special tool to drive it in. I added a very light coating of gasket maker to eliminate any potential leaks.
Once the valve covers are one, the last thing to install was the oil pan.
Water pump and Innovators West damper
Both phasers done
Driver side done
Installed the passenger side cylinder head and timing components
Oil pump with TSF gears
Verifying chain
So I was really worried about the timing of these modular motors, but I can tell you know that it’s the easiest thing since sliced bread!!!
As you see above, each timing chain has two dark (marker) chain links. All you do is align the dark chain links to the timing marks on the phasers and crank gear. Does not get any easier than that.
In order to degree your cams you need a solid lifter, so I took an old lifter out of my stock motor and measured the height. Then set my TFS adjustable solid lifter accordingly.
Install the solid lifter in one of the intake lifter bores, install your rocker, and you are ready to set up your dial indicator.
The dial indicator point will rest on the valve retainer; make sure you set this up with the valve at max lift.
I would highly suggest getting 2 sets of modular motor kits where you have two solid lifters and two rockers. It will save you a huge amount of time R&R parts…
So basically you will set your timing to -2, -4, -6, or +2, etc…once your timing is set, you will verify what your ICL (Intake Center Line) is…that’s basically all cam degree is. So you rotate the crank until you reach max lift, zero out the dial indicator, continue rotating the crank to make sure that you have set your dial indicator to exactly read “0” at max lift. Then you will take readings of the degree wheel at 50 before and after “0” (max lift).
You add the two numbers and then divide by 2 and that’s your ICL.
For example, my numbers with -4 degrees came out to 143.5 and 75.5 which gave me an ICL of 109.5.
Make sure you get the same ICL on both heads/sides/cams. It is OK to be off by up to 1 degree; some say even up to 2 is OK. But I would try to get them within 0.5 degree.
Once you are done and are 100% confident of your results and have set your timing to your targeted ICL, just return the crank to TDC and keep building!!
I installed all my valve train parts and goobered it up with Red Line assembly lube. If I knew before hand that I was going to have to prime the motor before startup, I would have used a lot less.
Freedom Racing valve spring compressor, a must tool for anyone working with valve train!!
Heads done!!! Time to seal her up!! I installed the front cover (don’t forget to install your trigger wheel!!)
Since I completely removed the VCT solenoid, I was left with a reaping hole in my valve covers. I contracted a local machine shop artist to make me something (freeze plug type plug) to plug up my hole. Lol This is what he came up with:
It was a press fit, he also made me a special tool to drive it in. I added a very light coating of gasket maker to eliminate any potential leaks.
Once the valve covers are one, the last thing to install was the oil pan.
Water pump and Innovators West damper
(which leads me to believe I got good seating...but lets not get ahead and jinx myself. lol)
