4.6L 3V Build

tmcolegr said:

Obviously you are referring to a mod which I am not aware of for the 4.6L 3V. The only cooling mod I have found is for the 4.6L 4V.

Click to expand...

+1, I only knew about the 4v heads having that... :/

US-1 said:

Seeing how close the head is to the firewall....what are you going to do when/if the fitting begins to leak? Race car is one thing but a daily driver?

Click to expand...

I wasn't aware this was a daily driver, my apologies Are there any other negatives I should be aware of? It seems the easiest way to make it accessible to repair would be to weld a female bung to the back of the block on both sides, then if the fitting leaks all be it a PITA to make it work you could replace the fitting without pulling the motor no? You would know better than I am so that's a serious question.

tmcolegr said:

Obviously you are referring to a mod which I am not aware of for the 4.6L 3V. The only cooling mod I have found is for the 4.6L 4V.

Click to expand...

http://s197forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=393245&postcount=522

Took me forever to find that post, pictures do a good job of explaining it.

EagleStroker said:

I wasn't aware this was a daily driver, my apologies Are there any other negatives I should be aware of? It seems the easiest way to make it accessible to repair would be to weld a female bung to the back of the block on both sides, then if the fitting leaks all be it a PITA to make it work you could replace the fitting without pulling the motor no? You would know better than I am so that's a serious question.



http://s197forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=393245&postcount=522

Took me forever to find that post, pictures do a good job of explaining it.

Click to expand...

Hey , I know that guy !

05stroker said:

Hey , I know that guy !

Click to expand...

So by tapping those lines, what are you accomplishing? I'm confused.
Sure looks cool, regardless of my confusion.

Essentially, you're taking water out of the front and rear of the heads instead of just the front so the rear cylinders are not exposed to hotter temperatures than the front cylinders. Pretty useful in a race type application where cylinder temperature differentials play havoc with the tune. However, the chance of this thing leaking with the current manner of putting a fitting in this location are pretty good on a daily driven car. And getting to these locations without pulling the heads is a bitch.

EagleStroker said:

http://s197forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=393245&postcount=522

Took me forever to find that post, pictures do a good job of explaining it.

Click to expand...

First time I've seen that on a 3V. Thanks for posting. However, I am running a Saleen S/C and I don't believe I have enough available real estate for those lines. Could be wrong though.

It could be a bitch to fix if it leaks.

tmcolegr said:

First time I've seen that on a 3V. Thanks for posting. However, I am running a Saleen S/C and I don't believe I have enough available real estate for those lines. Could be wrong though.

It could be a bitch to fix if it leaks.

Click to expand...

That's why I had the female welded in instead of trying the bolt in method Ive seen on the 4v stuff (the idea came from a JPC thread I seen on here). It shouldn't have anymore chance to leak then any other AN fitting would . If I did it again though I would just weld a male in there and not have the two piece setup. I still may do it before it goes back in . I am thinking of getting two bare alum. male 90s and setting them at the angle I want and welding it all up.

Now back to your very nice build thread you have going here . Looking good !

24 new lash adjusters will be installed as some (although not this particular one) of the early 4.6L 3V engines experienced collapsed lash adjusters - See TSB 06-19-8 post #52. This is the current part number (5L1Z-6500-A):

Lash adjusters installed

Camshafts can be easily be identified by their length. The long cam goes on the LH bank and the short cam goes on the RH bank

Once again I was reminded to carefully inspect new parts. I installed my cams and one of them would not turn by hand. After inspecting the camshaft I found a machining burr had been left on the thrust flange on the front of the camshaft. A polishing stone took care of the issue

Both 127350 Comp Cams XFI VSR Stage 2 Blower Cams have been installed and they both turn freely by hand. Camshaft bearing cap bolts were torqued to 89 in. lbs.

By any chance was it on the LH? (the last two comp grinds I've installed both had the same problem)

lito said:

By any chance was it on the LH? (the last two comp grinds I've installed both had the same problem)

Click to expand...

No actually it was on the RH cam. The burr was right at the "notches" in the thrust flange.

2 new 3R2Z-6A257-DA phaser kits (includes new bolts) will be installed. These phasers are of the latest engineering change and Comp Cams 5449 Phaser Limiters have been installed.



New 3L3Z-6279-DA phaser bolts have been torqued to 30 ft. lbs. + 90*

damn man, you bought every last specialty tool didn't you! I should have waited on my build to borrow more tools from you..

Boozshey said:

damn man, you bought every last specialty tool didn't you! I should have waited on my build to borrow more tools from you..

Click to expand...

Sure did!! I have almost every 4.6L 3V specialty tool referenced in the OEM manual and then some.

tmcolegr said:

Sure did!! I have almost every 4.6L 3V specialty tool referenced in the OEM manual and then some.

Click to expand...

renting them out?

Fantastic build thread thanks for taking the time to document all of this.

I have a set of those sensors sitting here...you should have posted, I would have just sent them to ya....

ok this has to be the cleanest engine in the history of forum engine
builds. i thought i kept mine clean during assembly, but this takes
the cake.

tmcolegr said:

Click to expand...