why?
cam swap wedge slipped
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redstangs9308gt
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Big lopey cams suck balls for us that wants perfect driveablity
redstangs9308gt
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lol yeah, the install itself isn't that bad its just a involved process that can be very time consuming.
I still haven't got my oil system primed, front cover is still off. I haven't had the motivation to get it finished
I still haven't got my oil system primed, front cover is still off. I haven't had the motivation to get it finished
WarFords
Member
I just installed cams the other week and I have never did it before. It was cake! Just take your time and I made sure the wedge was really in there and I couldn't pull it out easy. I also shined a flash light down in where the wedge was just to make sure I had both sides of the chain wedged. took me 2 hours!
TexasBlownV8
Formerly TexasBlownV6
+1. I used a hose as a wedge, got it in good n tight, and carefully removed the sprockets for as least time as possible.
Back to the blue links on the chain, you dont have to have them lined up to the marks. Just knowing how many teeth off is useful as well. For example, if the blue link is 3 links away from the cam mark, then it should be 3 links away from the crank sprocket dimple as well.
Before removing the chain from the sprocket, mark the chain and sprocket so you know for sure which teeth is lining up with which links on the chain. That way if your 'wedge' does not slip, you'll know for sure you have the sprocket back on properly.
Back to the blue links on the chain, you dont have to have them lined up to the marks. Just knowing how many teeth off is useful as well. For example, if the blue link is 3 links away from the cam mark, then it should be 3 links away from the crank sprocket dimple as well.
Before removing the chain from the sprocket, mark the chain and sprocket so you know for sure which teeth is lining up with which links on the chain. That way if your 'wedge' does not slip, you'll know for sure you have the sprocket back on properly.
dysan
Dis-Member
FYI...when I replaced my valve springs, retainers, seals, chains, tensioners, lash adjusters....etc...etc I didn't prime the engine. All I did was make sure everything had a good coating of assembly lube, pulled the fuse for the fuel pump and cranked the engine a few times at 5 second intervals. I haven't had an issue at all and I did that last winter. Unless you're doing a full re-assembly of an engine I don't see the need to really prime it.
TexasBlownV8
Formerly TexasBlownV6
The priming is to build pressure in the hydraulic tensioners, so when the engine cranks, the timing chains wont jump teeth.
BruceH
BBB Big Bore Boss 322
Same here.
FWIW the tensioners have heavy spring tension on them to begin with. I suppose it could happen but it hasn't to me with two cam swaps.
During my motor builds I made sure the system had oil in it by adding oil to the pickup tube and turning the motor while it was upside down on the stand. I figured the pump and oil galleys would have more oil in them than after an oil change and everything had assembly lube on it anyway. Not exactly the preferred method and I'm sure someone will tell me it didn't work. I'm always pushing my luck anyway, lol.
UltraKla$$ic
PERENNIAL WAXXER
.......................mmmmmmmmmmkay.........
redstangs9308gt
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My friend I disagree with you 100%. With timing cover off and new tensioners installed or old ones that had been compressed. As you turn the engine over you should see the "SLACK" that is in the chains as you rotate the engine over. The passenger side chain and tensioner was compressing and decompressing a good half inch every time I would turn the engine over. I just primed the engine and now I am rock solid with no slack. I made a mess with the cover off and priming it that way but I just wanted to make sure that it was in time. No doubt if I hadn't had any issues with the wedge slipping out this would have been a peice of cake. But things don't always go as planned. So I am not sitting here saying that this is a hard job I am saying if crap does go wrong there is alot of work envolved to put it back right. Thats all I was saying.
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dysan
Dis-Member
That's why I rotated the engine both ways before I reinstalled the front cover. I don't know if you used metal tensioners or stuck with the plastic ones, but the metal ones are ratcheting and as I rotated the engine both ways they tightened themselves and the slack was gone.
redstangs9308gt
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Ya I went back with metal ones. I was talking about the plastic ones just compressing and decompressing
Funny....after all the shit that has been spoken about using the hose as the wedge and not one issue with it slipping....huh.
redstangs9308gt
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lol yup
redstangs9308gt
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Well, engine is in time, front cover on, valve covers on, system is primed. Almost finished
redstangs9308gt
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Well. ITS FIXED. I have no clue how the car is going to drive but as far as the rev up and idle recovery stall goes. Its fixed. Vaccum is at 18in vg @ 865rpm OHHH. Cliff notes
Valvetrain noise is quieter
The exhaust note itself is quieter (I guess 3inch magnaflow magnapaks will take care of this)
tmcolegr
It's All About the Build
That's the same vacuum I have at idle with 127350s.
redstangs9308gt
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sweet. Are you locked out or still using VCT?
tmcolegr
It's All About the Build
Comp Cams Limiters
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