05stroker
Never enough power guy!
I decided to document this rebuild since I couldn't find an F1a rebuild on line. only P1 and D1 which are a little different inside and use some different bearings. My unit was leaking from the rear seal and had a bearing noise at high rpm.
Here are a couple of links that really aided me on this rebuild. One is for a P1 and the other is for a D1 unit.
http://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l...g/597997-how-to-procharger-p-1sc-rebuild.html
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?p=8504646
First off here is the parts list for the F1a.
2 ea- Koyo Brand 6000 Radial Bearing (oil gear shaft)
1 ea- GMN Brand 6206 Radial bearing (input shaft)
1 ec- GMN Brand 6205 Radial Bearing (input shaft)
1 ea- Koyo 6013C3 (output shaft zero clearance)
1 ea- Barden (Still checking it says 305 HDL) (output shaft press-on)
1 ea- National Seal p/n 223020 (input shaft)
1 ea- Output shaft seal (proprietary!)
I was able to order the seals from http://www.superchargerrebuild.com/?page_id=53 scroll down and you will find the seals.
The bearings can be bought from several places, I used Pervis Bearing in Ft Worth Tx.
After removing the unit from the car I removed the pulley from the front of the head unit. Then the rear blower outlet.
Then I separated the case. Use caution here. There is a thin rubber o-ring about 3/8" in on the case.
Now its time to remove the bearings and seals.
First was the oil slinger.
I then used a three jaw puller to remove the small front bearing.
Then the input shaft and bearings.
Next remove the billet bearing retainers for the oil slinger and input shaft.
Then the output shaft and bearings. This is where it is time for the press. For this I had to see the shop that does my machine work and we pressed it out of the impeller with ease on there press.
Once the impeller is removed a simple whack with a rubber mallet will separate the output shaft and bearing from the case.
I only needed a mallet to remove the output shaft from the bearing assembly. Same to remove the center rear bearing and billet pc. Then I used a heat gun to heat the billet pc with a large socket for a weight and once the aluminum was heated the bearing fell right out.
Now its time to remove the seals on the case. After removing the rear seal it was obvious where my leak was.
This is as far as I needed to disassemble mine as the bearings on the oil slinger and input shaft where fine. My noise was the front bearing on the output shaft. If doing a full bearing replacement then a three jaw pulley would remove the rest of the bearings not replaced here.
Now its time to clean everything. I used carb cleaner for mine. After everything is clean and you have the parts in had its time for reassembly.
First is to reinstall the output shaft and bearings. The two bearings and the billet sleeve can all be pressed together by had or with a little help from the rubber mallet. I used the hot/cold method to install the bearings on the shaft. I placed the shaft in the freezer for 2 hrs and used my heat gun on the bearing assembly. The shaft dropped right in.
Now you need to reinstall the billet bearing retainers. I used a little blue Locktight here just in case.
Then the oil slinger. Simply press in with hands.
Then the input shaft. Pressed in by hand as well.
Then the front bearing on the output shaft. (If you install this while doing the rear bearings then you cannot install the input shaft)
Now I installed the case seal and closed the unit up. I used some anti seize on the case bolts.
All that is left is to install the seals when they arrive tomorrow. Then the unit is ready for reinstalling.
I will post more tomorrow after the seals are installed.
Here are a couple of links that really aided me on this rebuild. One is for a P1 and the other is for a D1 unit.
http://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l...g/597997-how-to-procharger-p-1sc-rebuild.html
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?p=8504646
First off here is the parts list for the F1a.
2 ea- Koyo Brand 6000 Radial Bearing (oil gear shaft)
1 ea- GMN Brand 6206 Radial bearing (input shaft)
1 ec- GMN Brand 6205 Radial Bearing (input shaft)
1 ea- Koyo 6013C3 (output shaft zero clearance)
1 ea- Barden (Still checking it says 305 HDL) (output shaft press-on)
1 ea- National Seal p/n 223020 (input shaft)
1 ea- Output shaft seal (proprietary!)
I was able to order the seals from http://www.superchargerrebuild.com/?page_id=53 scroll down and you will find the seals.
The bearings can be bought from several places, I used Pervis Bearing in Ft Worth Tx.
After removing the unit from the car I removed the pulley from the front of the head unit. Then the rear blower outlet.
Then I separated the case. Use caution here. There is a thin rubber o-ring about 3/8" in on the case.
Now its time to remove the bearings and seals.
First was the oil slinger.
I then used a three jaw puller to remove the small front bearing.
Then the input shaft and bearings.
Next remove the billet bearing retainers for the oil slinger and input shaft.
Then the output shaft and bearings. This is where it is time for the press. For this I had to see the shop that does my machine work and we pressed it out of the impeller with ease on there press.
Once the impeller is removed a simple whack with a rubber mallet will separate the output shaft and bearing from the case.
I only needed a mallet to remove the output shaft from the bearing assembly. Same to remove the center rear bearing and billet pc. Then I used a heat gun to heat the billet pc with a large socket for a weight and once the aluminum was heated the bearing fell right out.
Now its time to remove the seals on the case. After removing the rear seal it was obvious where my leak was.
This is as far as I needed to disassemble mine as the bearings on the oil slinger and input shaft where fine. My noise was the front bearing on the output shaft. If doing a full bearing replacement then a three jaw pulley would remove the rest of the bearings not replaced here.
Now its time to clean everything. I used carb cleaner for mine. After everything is clean and you have the parts in had its time for reassembly.
First is to reinstall the output shaft and bearings. The two bearings and the billet sleeve can all be pressed together by had or with a little help from the rubber mallet. I used the hot/cold method to install the bearings on the shaft. I placed the shaft in the freezer for 2 hrs and used my heat gun on the bearing assembly. The shaft dropped right in.
Now you need to reinstall the billet bearing retainers. I used a little blue Locktight here just in case.
Then the oil slinger. Simply press in with hands.
Then the input shaft. Pressed in by hand as well.
Then the front bearing on the output shaft. (If you install this while doing the rear bearings then you cannot install the input shaft)
Now I installed the case seal and closed the unit up. I used some anti seize on the case bolts.
All that is left is to install the seals when they arrive tomorrow. Then the unit is ready for reinstalling.
I will post more tomorrow after the seals are installed.
Last edited:
