throw out slave advice

RRRoamer

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Gents,

My throw out slave is starting to get noise in the mornings. It is usually a medium clicking sound when the car is stone cold. VERY light pressure on the clutch (toe JUST touching it sort of thing) will make it go away. It also goes away after the car has warmed up for a few minutes. The sound is getting louder with time, so it is only a matter of time before I have to dig into this beast.

Here are my questions:

1) What TOB do folks recommend? The car is basically stock NA (cold air and a tune basically), so it doesn't have to deal with abnormal power handling and the clutch is the stock clock (no high pressure clutches). Where would you get the best price on said TOB?

2) The car has 60k miles on it. The clutch normally holds perfectly well, no chatter and not abnormal slipping. It WILL slip for 1/2 a second or so after a 1st/2nd or 2nd/3rd power shift, but then locks up and pulls hard. It has done this pretty much since the day I picked it up from the dealer with 4 miles on it. The car has never been to the track, through I have "practiced" a few hard launches from time to time (less than 15 I would guess). What are the thoughts on leaving the clutch alone and just replacing the TOB? Money's tight right now, so I would rather keep the expenditure to a minimum.

3) Assuming I DO end up replacing the clutch, I will probably make my wallet/bank/credit card scream and get the McLeod RST clutch. Eventually, I DO want to get away from NA and if I have to buy a clutch, I might as well buy a GOOD one. So, where is the best place to buy this clutch? Also, what is the right part number to fit an '05 GT?

Thanks for the time and thoughts!
 
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ethrjock

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RRRoamer

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Well, I was able to get in on the group buy of the RST clutches, so I am set there! My mom works for a Ford dealer, so I had her buy the slave cylinder for me ($155), so that helped a bit also.

My brother offered to come down with his son and help change the clutch. AFTER we teach his son how to drive a stick! I guess it makes sense... If you are going to kill a clutch with a clueless new stick driver, you might as well do it on a clutch that is soon going to be replaced anyway.

And EVERYONE should know how to drive a manual car, so I can definitely support him there.
 

3vs197

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for a basically stock application i would reccomend the exedy mach 400 clutch. will handle your power just fine and for $360 it comes with a new oem tob. very happy with the exedy.
 

RRRoamer

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$115 at rockauto.com

Yup. But this is one of those parts where I want the factory part in there, not a clone/copy/rebuild. I have NO intention of pulling the tranny a second time because an aftermarket TOB didn't hold up.
 

JeremyH

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That is the company that makes the oem part for ford. But i hear ya there, 150$ is not a bad price for peace of mind. Wouldn't want to do that either. Will you love the rst, make sure u take it easy and break it in good first.
 

RRRoamer

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you love the rst, make sure u take it easy and break it in good first.

That is the really cool thing! I'm sticking a 900 hp clutch into a basically stock NA engine that only puts out around 270 hp or so full tilt... I AM TAKING IT EASY!!!!

It should be nice and broke in when I am finally able to stuff a turbo on it.

But yeah, I hear you!
 

Lgs SGT

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I will be installing the RST clutch along with a Fidanza flywheel (99-04) prior to installing the Edelbrock e-force

20k miles to date on a stock SGT, primarily street use plus 4 HPDE track days

Is it recommended to replace the slave/TOB assemby?

If yes, is the part listed at rockauto.com an OEM part?

Thanks
 

JeremyH

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Yes, yes. They carry the same oem manufaturer products and sell them direct from the factory.
Dorman is the manufacturer of the one you want.
 
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Anthony05GT

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Take it easy on the RST for a true 500 miles. The twin discs seem to take more time to break in. JPC had (or has) the RST along with the steel braided line for $679.00 for both.
 

Boondoggie

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Yup. But this is one of those parts where I want the factory part in there, not a clone/copy/rebuild. I have NO intention of pulling the tranny a second time because an aftermarket TOB didn't hold up.

Um, isn't this one of those parts where the factory part sucks? I mean, all these OE slaves seem to have a short life.
 

RRRoamer

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Um, isn't this one of those parts where the factory part sucks? I mean, all these OE slaves seem to have a short life.

Not from what I have read. I have see a LOT more posts with folks saying their XYZ TOB lived a short life than people saying their stock TOB died. This is especially true when you are dealing with a stock clutch or an aftermarket one that has stock pedal pressures or less.
 

Blacksmoke

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The stock slave cylinders on these cars are better than aftermarket ones.
The aftermarket ones give A LOT of people trouble.

The reason the slave's go on these cars when a new aftermarket clutch is put in so soon is that they are harsher than the stock clutch usually and the slave is already worn from years of use.

Meaning.... get a NEW Slave cyl... but get a stock one
 
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