Cams

I am looking for some knowledge I installed Hot Rod Cams, Ford Racing Intake, SR performance Throttle body I used the Timing chain wedge and followed the instructions on install everything went smooth, car was done installed the tune I loose power at about 4K RPMs and it's jerky I have P0171 lean code like I have a major leak my short term fuel trim is 35% which is really bad I know so I remove the Intake to find it warped on the Intake Bank 2 side and a port melted inside. Has anybody else ran across something like this?

I'm having a similar issue.....same cams, but my C&L cai seems to be pumpig in more air than the SCT prel
oaded tune can handle. I get random P0171 errors....a lean condition can overheat the engine. I think I need a slightly richer mixture

unless your FI, the parts you just added are taking away from the performance of the engine. most cams lose low end torque. the FRPP intake shouldn't be used on a NA 4.6. aftermarket throttle bodys are a waste as well. at the very least, an email tune should be used when you add the parts you have,(NOT BAMA). IMHO, the money would have been better spent on suspension or wheels and tires. if your talking about a CAI and not intake manifold, those still need tuned for. good luck

Whose tuning the car and have they data logged it and made revisions?

It's an SCT tune preloaded I just want to get it going good enough to take it to the guy I want to tune it. The Ford Racing Intake Manifold is recommended with headers when you do the cams either way my 4 cylinder Camry has more power and it's running crazy lean

Ask the tuner for a baseline to use and ditch that crap canned tune.

The manifold will really only show gains in the upper RPM range.

You have a tune for the Hot Rod cams? Not only do they need a tune but they need a tuner who has calibrator status from sct.

I ask because I'm not aware of a canned tune from sct that accounts for the Hot Rods.

The icl is quite different from stock as are the durations and lsa. Quite a few things need to be accounted for in the tune.

Good luck with it, despite conventional wisdom my experience with Hot Rods was positive, they increase power without having to change valve springs. However, they need a knowledgeable tuner to make it happen.

I still feel like there is a mechanical reason for the huge Fuel trim issue with the 171. I put the factory Intake Manifold back on and nothing really changed I used the timing chain wedge tool so I refuse to believe the timing is off but I guess anything is possible.

It's Bama I was trying not to say it since everybody seems to hate them

akselvom said:

It's Bama I was trying not to say it since everybody seems to hate them

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That helps. They have a canned tune for Hot Rods that works. If they gave you the Hot Rod tune anyway.

The Tuner I'm using is about 90 miles away and a canned tune was the best option to not have to pay a huge tow bill but the car has to run decent lean for that long will most certainly melt the valves

akselvom said:

The Tuner I'm using is about 90 miles away and a canned tune was the best option to not have to pay a huge tow bill but the car has to run decent lean for that long will most certainly melt the valves

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Ask the tuner if he will get you set up with a base tune. The data from the base tune will allow him to get all of your driveability and closed loop tuning dialed in prior to seeing him.

If your tuner won't do it then please contact Manuel Pazo. He goes by lito on this forum. He's one of the best 3v tuners to be found and he knows the Hot Rods. He will also do a remote tune on the dyno of your choice.

stkjock said:

Ask the tuner for a baseline to use and ditch that crap canned tune.

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BruceH said:

Ask the tuner if he will get you set up with a base tune. The data from the base tune will allow him to get all of your driveability and closed loop tuning dialed in prior to seeing him.

If your tuner won't do it then please contact Manuel Pazo. He goes by lito on this forum. He's one of the best 3v tuners to be found and he knows the Hot Rods. He will also do a remote tune on the dyno of your choice.

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yup

akselvom said:

so I remove the Intake to find it warped on the Intake Bank 2 side and a port melted inside. Has anybody else ran across something like this?

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Are you saying the canned tune warped the head and melted parts?

bl817 said:

unless your FI, the parts you just added are taking away from the performance of the engine. most cams lose low end torque. the FRPP intake shouldn't be used on a NA 4.6. aftermarket throttle bodys are a waste as well. at the very least, an email tune should be used when you add the parts you have,(NOT BAMA). IMHO, the money would have been better spent on suspension or wheels and tires. if your talking about a CAI and not intake manifold, those still need tuned for. good luck

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Not always true. Depends on boost level and how high the engine is being revved. NA engines need all the airflow they can get, it's just that the stock manifold flows enough air to not warrant the FRPP manifold unless your needs call for 5500+rpm and/or a big bore block. Anything you lose on the low end is typically gained back at the top of the rev range so you just have to decide what is more important.

FI doesn't necessitate larger ports/bigger parts either, up to a certain point. The boost pressure tends to push through engine restrictions which makes large header primaries and big manifold ports pointless except for the max effort builds pushing 15+ psi.

I'm fairly certain that the tune did not cause the melting in my intake manifold I just don't know what I did but it's definitely something I feel like I should address. I believe that either the manifold was already melted and I just didn't notice it when I put it on the car or some serious stuff happen and I blew flames up through the valves and into the intake manifold which is a stretch but that's the only explanation I can think of. I pretty much only have a low end power I thought this would be a good way to expand my power all throughout the range

Only time I've seen a intake runner melt was from a broken intake valve spring causing the valve to remain open during combustion.

You would think that that would throw all kinds of crazy codes though like a missfire and Cam codes that was my theory that the valve was staying open during combustion but I don't know how that would have happened I mean I guess stuff breaks but that's pretty wild

You prolly installed a defective manifold and it's running like trash because of a massive air leak. The car would blow a head gasket or shut down before the heads would hold enough heat to ruin that intake.

Can you post a picture of the melted intake?

05stroker said:

Can you post a picture of the melted intake?

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I just love when people ask questions or half describe something. And don't include pics.
Dude on FB asked questions that are confusing as hell. And finally posts a picture and he was describing it wrong completely