Rich on one side - P2196 (passenger, bank 1)

Look at all that room. So jealous.

I have to admit it all came off quick even if I was cursing the whole time [emoji16]


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Wraith said:

I have to admit it all came off quick even if I was cursing the whole time [emoji16]


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Cursing and working on cars goes together like peanut butter and jelly...

One day soon I hope to drive this car again.....and compete in the how many times have you taken that part off contest


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I have no idea how many times I've pulled/installed my engine. Not worth counting anymore.

Wraith said:

One day soon I hope to drive this car again.....and compete in the how many times have you taken that part off contest


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You will never catch me... lol

05stroker said:

You will never catch me... lol

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Hahahah

Leak down reveals no valve damage and now we retime and soon Lito can work his magic


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Sounds right
Likes I said above 180° off means it's still in time within up/down of piston
But it's 1 rotation off of spark

Wes06 said:

Sounds right
Likes I said above 180° off means it's still in time within up/down of piston
But it's 1 rotation off of spark

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Man... that almost sounds like what is going on with *one side* of mine. The other side is fine, though.

Being 180* out would affect both sides, right?

na, driver side being 180 out means the compression/leak down should be the same as normal, just that the compression stroke is 1 rotation off and it sparks off when the exhaust stroke is going instead.

Like I said at work we build small engines, going off the same principal timing it 180 off is the exact same as 0, and since the small engine sparks with every rotation its fine. However since ours only spark on the compression stroke its now trying to spark while also throwing gas/air mixture out the exhaust. And being 2 cam's just proves it only being rich on one side shows its gotta be that

The only way to know for sure is pull valve covers and line up the timing marks on cam gears. That is when it was confirmed for us


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Man... I've done that. I timed it, and retimed it. I did it the same way I've always done it. Other than a tooth or two being off when the chains jumped, I have never messed up that bad.

Basically, I bring cylinder 1 to TDC, then set the timing marks for the 5.4L 3v from the FSM. The dark links on the chain are a little different, and the chains are a little longer, but it's essentially the same procedure. I can't see how I could possibly have one side off 180* without having them both off (ie: if I had not put cyl #1 at TDC).

The passengers cam gear should have | or a R| or R and drivers will be up arrow and L correct?


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I put my motor together the other week, Made sure the timing mark on the crank was pointing down and the bronze links were lined up and the cam's were at their correct marks probably 10 times, and confirmed with a friend who was there.

I was nearly 1 tooth off on driver side but easily swapped them before i pulled the tensioner clips

Wes06 said:

I put my motor together the other week, Made sure the timing mark on the crank was pointing down and the bronze links were lined up and the cam's were at their correct marks probably 10 times, and confirmed with a friend who was there.

I was nearly 1 tooth off on driver side but easily swapped them before i pulled the tensioner clips

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How can you be "nearly 1 tooth off" ?

nearly 1 tooth off = 1 off, but fixed it so im not.....hah

Wes06 said:

nearly 1 tooth off = 1 off, but fixed it so im not.....hah

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Lol.

Well, I've definitely been a tooth or two off before. Never 180* though. So I want to believe it's something electrical. I just haven't had much time to mess with it.

Another attribute my engine gave which has went away with fixing this was during a manual turn by hand there was a real tight spot and it was because so many valves were open others were compressing. Now that it's timed right that spot is gone


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good to hear.

yea having twice as many trying to compress at once would suck