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2005+ Ford Mustang v6 4.0L Tech Technical discussion about the 2005+ Ford Mustang 4.0L v6

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Old 02-06-2017, 05:00 AM   #1
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Default What do I do to 'clean' the engine from inside (oil is black and thick)

Hi everyone,

I am a new owner of an 05 Mustang. I am glad that I've grabbed the vehicle at a cool price, and I am fine with those minor body dents and scratches... I have got a quick question though. Assuming that I have to change oil and replace filters (which is fine for me), I checked the oil level and the dipstick was black as hell! I assume the filter is also clogged. So what would tyou recommend me to do, is there a sort of additive I may put in there along with new oil and a new filter... Or just change oil and filter, give it some 1-2K and then change oil again? What are your thoughts at this point?
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Old 02-06-2017, 06:02 AM   #2
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My unprofessional opinion would be to try changing it after a couple thousand miles, do that once or twice, maybe use seafoam in the oil. I don't know. I'm sure someone with better answers can chime in.
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Old 02-06-2017, 06:22 AM   #3
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If the engine has major sludge buildup then you run the risk of breaking loose large pieces of sludge by using too much cleaner. I'd recommend pulling a valve cover first to get an idea of how bad it is.

Ten years ago I bought my bucket truck as an 'off lease'. It was 6 years old and had been operated by Entergy in Louisiana. They did exactly zero maintenance. Never changed the oil, never greased anything. The engine had almost 7000 hours on it when I bought it. I changed the oil every 250 hours and by the 3rd or 4th oil change the truck ran much better and had more power. I now have over 17,000 hours on the truck and still change the oil every 350 hours. I never added any sort of cleaner to the oil.

Modern oils have lots of detergents added already. Use a top shelf brand oil and change it every 2500 miles for 3-4 oil changes, monitoring the oil consumption and color. You will know when it's time to extend the oil changes to a normal 6000 mile interval.

If you want to add detergents to the oil, automatic transmission fluid has about the highest concentration of detergents of any type of oil.
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Old 02-06-2017, 08:47 AM   #4
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My F150 has a 5.4 3V and was ticking a bit. Sounded like the VCT deal. Google VCT 5.4 and you will see it's common on the 5.4's. Anyway, I seafoamed my oil and it virtually eliminated the ticking. I also now add a bottle of STP oil treatment at each oil change and it further eliminated the ticking. Truck is quiet as a church mouse now. No ticking except for the injectors. I also ran two bottle through my fuel system over a couple tanks of fuel. Truck idled better.

So if it looks ok after you check under a valve covers (ie...no big globs of sludge) I would seafoam it. And I'd run a treatment through the fuel system because it's cheap and will clean it.
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Old 02-07-2017, 12:01 AM   #5
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Run Mobil 1 synthetic and it will clean it out, you can sub a quart of trans fluid for the length of 1 oil change and it will clean the heck out of it as well.
A "flush" wouldn't hurt either, you pour it into the old oil, run the car for 10 minutes and change the oil.
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Old 02-07-2017, 03:48 AM   #6
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Thanks for replying, folks. I guess I will grab a couple of fuel filters then (I guess some of these will do that https://www.carid.com/engine-oil-filters/), and will get the new filter every time I will have to change oil. And, as RockercarX said, will do the cleaning. As it seems to me that having such oil in the engine is really dangerous.... And I do not want any knocking or detonation....

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Old 02-07-2017, 08:10 AM   #7
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Dirty oil should not be the cause of detonation. The valvetrain is more at risk in this case as I've seen cam followers seize from lack of lubrication/extended oil change intervals.

To prevent detonation you want to make sure the throttle body and MAF are clean and your PCV valve is not stuck open. And while you're picking up the fuel filters I would also get a set of new spark plugs and wires. More than likely those items were never changed. I would change the fuel filter every 15-20k and I believe the manual calls for 60k mile plug changes.
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Old 02-07-2017, 08:47 AM   #8
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If your going to change the plugs, you need to get the tool first for when they come apart on the way out and also read the spark plug removal thead here.
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Old 02-07-2017, 08:52 AM   #9
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These cars don't have wires. Coil on plug. But yes a new set of plugs wouldn't hurt if it's up around 75-80K or more. Otherwise I would leave them alone if there are no problems.
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Old 02-07-2017, 09:33 AM   #10
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Rockauto lists a traditional coil and plug wires for the 4.0.
Also the spark plugs are an open ground strap design and not like the 05-08 3v plugs.
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Old 02-07-2017, 12:26 PM   #11
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That raises a valid question. I was assuming we were talking about a 4.6 V8, but we may be talking about a 4.0 V6.

Is this a V6 or V8 car?
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Old 02-07-2017, 02:03 PM   #12
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This is in the 4.0 Tech section so I assumed V6 but I've gotten trick questions wrong before.
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Old 02-07-2017, 02:43 PM   #13
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Well...... egg's on my face. Totally missed the post was in the 4.0 section.

Yes wires are probably worth it. If it's old enough to warrant plugs it should get wires too. No VCT to worry about on the 4.0, so ignore what I was saying on that. But the seafoam wouldn't be a bad idea.
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Old 02-07-2017, 02:57 PM   #14
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This is in the 4.0 Tech section so I assumed V6 but I've gotten trick questions wrong before.
Oops, I did not catch that. I was just scrolling new post.
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Old 02-07-2017, 04:13 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Oops, I did not catch that. I was just scrolling new post.
I did the same.
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Old 02-07-2017, 06:11 PM   #16
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I sea foamed my car back when it was a 4.0 and it seemed to run noticeably better after. Just make sure to sea foam the car with old oil as it will need to be changed within 500 miles after pouring it in.
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Old 03-26-2017, 11:16 AM   #17
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Amsoil used to have a engine flush that you would pour in your engine before you changed your oil over from regular oil to synthetic. You would pour it in and then let the engine high idle for ten minutes and Change it all out. That old oil would come out pitch black, don't know if they still offer it though.
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Old 03-26-2017, 09:14 PM   #18
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I would Seafoam the oil and the fuel system. Follow directions on the bottle for each. For the fuel system find a vacuum hose that goes into the intake and suck about a quarter of a can through and on the last little bit suck enough to make it stall. Let it sit about 5-10 mins, replace the vac hose and start it. Make sure you do the fuel system clense outside. If the buildup is bad it will fog up the whole neighborhood. I did it once on my daughters Escape with 150k miles and the neighbor was giving me some pretty funny looks!
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