turbo guys...how are you venting your crank case?

one eyed willy

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drew out my options, i like option 2 more, simpler and i like the idea of having 2 catch cans on the one vacuum to help with the oil vapor.

im sure the single vacuum and single breather tank 5/8" hose would be plenty sufficient?

i bought 4 check valves and 2 catch cans because i was originally thinking option 1 when i was planning it out, but now that im doing in the install......option1 just seems like overkill.
 

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PCVoption1.jpg

PCVoption2.jpg




drew out my options, i like option 2 more, simpler and i like the idea of having 2 catch cans on the one vacuum to help with the oil vapor.

im sure the single vacuum and single breather tank 5/8" hose would be plenty sufficient?

i bought 4 check valves and 2 catch cans because i was originally thinking option 1 when i was planning it out, but now that im doing in the install......option1 just seems like overkill.

I like option B as well and might want to take those other two check valves of your hands. No vapor at idle looks like a sweet setup. Do you have a link to them?
 

Flapjack

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I ordered the KrankVents a while back and setup my own system. I gutted the PCV from inside the valve cover and used the larger KrankVent on that side (driver's side). I ran the passenger side vent to a Mishimoto catch can, and ran the catch can to the inlet of one of the turbo air filters.

I haven't had a problem with blow-by or turbo smoking since.

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recordbreaker5

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what's the purpose for having a check valve closed on idle. Is there a problem just letting it vent at idle and while under boost? Btw, I need valve covers like that! Nice looking!
 

one eyed willy

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what's the purpose for having a check valve closed on idle. Is there a problem just letting it vent at idle and while under boost? Btw, I need valve covers like that! Nice looking!

If its vented at idle you will smell the fumes and it will decrease the vacuum effect.
 

Flapjack

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Nice looking covers. Everything was welded in? Seems most welders are skittish about doing anything with the magnesium covers. Though if anyone can do it, it would be Al at Front Range Welding here in the Springs. I haven't asked him...

I might have him redo the crappy (tiny) stock openings with something I can connect an AN line to, next time I have them off....


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one eyed willy

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yup, welded in, welder looked at me crazy when i told him "i heard they were hard to weld".....he laughed and welded them with zero issues.
 

Flapjack

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yup, welded in, welder looked at me crazy when i told him "i heard they were hard to weld".....he laughed and welded them with zero issues.
I think the last guy said it was prone to cracking or something. At any rate, Al would be the only guy I'd trust out here to do it....

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retfr8flyr

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When I had my pair welded the guy said he would not do another set. I have slightly changed the way I am going to do mine with the new build. I will have the drivers side with a #10 AN bung welded in but the pass side will be stock. I will run the bung on the drivers side to a breather/catchcan with a Krankvent that will allow flow out to the can but not in. The stock DS vent will have a catchcan with another Krankvent going to the intake manifold allowing flow from the cover but not allowing flow into the cover. The Passanger side will have the stock vent going to another breather/catchcan with a Krankvent again allowing flow out but not in.

This setup will give me a closed system under normal driving, so plenty of vacuum pulling from the crankcase with good ring seal and no smell. Under boost the DS and PS will both allow the crankcase to vent and the Krankvent in the line from the DS to the intake will not allow the boost to pressurize the crankcase.

The fittings you found should do the same thing as the expensive Krankvent's I have. I wish I had known about them before I bought the Krankvent's.


Earl
 

one eyed willy

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since i have 2 bungs already welded on the driver valve cover, and all ready have the materials i will run to outlets from the covers with check valves to the breather can. just incase one of the valves happen to fail or not open. i will revise my diagram.


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Flapjack

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When I had my pair welded the guy said he would not do another set. I have slightly changed the way I am going to do mine with the new build. I will have the drivers side with a #10 AN bung welded in but the pass side will be stock. I will run the bung on the drivers side to a breather/catchcan with a Krankvent that will allow flow out to the can but not in. The stock DS vent will have a catchcan with another Krankvent going to the intake manifold allowing flow from the cover but not allowing flow into the cover. The Passanger side will have the stock vent going to another breather/catchcan with a Krankvent again allowing flow out but not in.

This setup will give me a closed system under normal driving, so plenty of vacuum pulling from the crankcase with good ring seal and no smell. Under boost the DS and PS will both allow the crankcase to vent and the Krankvent in the line from the DS to the intake will not allow the boost to pressurize the crankcase.

The fittings you found should do the same thing as the expensive Krankvent's I have. I wish I had known about them before I bought the Krankvent's.


Earl
Just an FYI, I had almost this exact same setup with the two KrankVents that come with the kit (minus the catchcan on the driver's side... I still need to add that). I had some very weird drivability issues. Nothing terrible, just rough idle, felt like it wanted to stall alot, etc.... I removed the smaller KrankVent on the passenger side and just ran the catch can, and the problems seemed to go away.

So now I'm only using the larger KrankVent on the driver's side.
 

Flapjack

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since i have 2 bungs already welded on the driver valve cover, and all ready have the materials i will run to outlets from the covers with check valves to the breather can. just incase one of the valves happen to fail or not open. i will revise my diagram.
Two questions, and a point:

1) Why do you have two lines between check valve A and the first catch can?
2) Why do you have two catch cans on the PS? One is enough for me... I seldom get anything in my one can.

Point: I don't know about the McMaster-Carr check valves, but the KrankVent ones are highly reliable. I can't see why you would need two (just in case) and all the extra tubing. I would just plug off the extra hole you have on that side.
 

one eyed willy

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Two questions, and a point:

1) Why do you have two lines between check valve A and the first catch can?

my picture got messed up...fixing it now

Two questions, and a point:

2) Why do you have two catch cans on the PS? One is enough for me... I seldom get anything in my one can.

mostly because i already have both catch cans in my possesion and figure it couldnt hurt....i really dont want to see any oil in the intake

Point: I don't know about the McMaster-Carr check valves, but the KrankVent ones are highly reliable. I can't see why you would need two (just in case) and all the extra tubing. I would just plug off the extra hole you have on that side.

just figured it wouldnt hurt to be on the safe side, i tend to over-engineer everything i do.....
 

Flapjack

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my picture got messed up...fixing it now

mostly because i already have both catch cans in my possesion and figure it couldnt hurt....i really dont want to see any oil in the intake

just figured it wouldnt hurt to be on the safe side, i tend to over-engineer everything i do.....
Hahah, good answers. Seriously, though... I would skip the "backup" check valves and catch cans. You won't need them. :)
 

retfr8flyr

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Just an FYI, I had almost this exact same setup with the two KrankVents that come with the kit (minus the catchcan on the driver's side... I still need to add that). I had some very weird drivability issues. Nothing terrible, just rough idle, felt like it wanted to stall alot, etc.... I removed the smaller KrankVent on the passenger side and just ran the catch can, and the problems seemed to go away.

So now I'm only using the larger KrankVent on the driver's side.
Thanks for the heads up. Have to see how it works in my system. I can always remove the Krankvent form the PS line if I run into the same things you did. That's basically the way I was running it before my fire. Just thought I would try the extra Krankvent for a closed system.


Earl
 
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