Steeda REAR brake uprade kit ?

http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-13-inch-rear-brake-upgrade-kit-for-ford-mustang.html

Anyone running this kit?

Curious to hear from anyone using it how the rear slotted rotors are holding up in a DE- Track- day -environment

im curious to, i've been thinking about adding this to my 2011

i had the baer upgrade for a while, i believe they are the same size. they worked well, didnt expect them to add much braking force. i went back to stock since the rotors are much cheaper.

after one autocross i went to the rotors were pretty scored up, i thought at the time it may have been the pads but it ended up going away. i never got down to why it looked like that.

$500 for 13" rotors, stainless steel brake lines and bracket - it's a good upgrade for stock calipers, or save another $1000 and get the 13" two piece slotted rotors, lines, brackets and 4 piston Wilwood SL4R calipers. Two great choices for two different budgets. I would do it.

is there a way to mount brembos,like whats on the front in the rear? if so that would be sweet

PBstallis said:

is there a way to mount brembos,like whats on the front in the rear? if so that would be sweet

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Not that I'm aware of.

PBstallis said:

is there a way to mount brembos,like whats on the front in the rear? if so that would be sweet

Click to expand...

I was actually talking with Maximum Motorsports about doing just that. Basically you need to find a rotor with the same bolt pattern and a similar offset and then just fab up a strong bracket for the rear caliper. I wanted to use the stock front rotors, but they're too thick for the caliper as is.

I had it and do not recommend it. reasons:

uneven rotor wear towards the edges
rotors lasted half a season then I had to replace them
it just doesn't feel/break any better compared to stock, it is a cosmetic change
I actually snapped the left rotor during racing (material flaw?)
did I mention changing pads is bothersome with standard calipers?

Go for small 4 or 2 piston racing caliper preferably with floating rotors. It will cost you a little bit more but you wont look back afterwards.

Thevesh said:

Go for small 4 or 2 piston racing caliper preferably with floating rotors. It will cost you a little bit more but you wont look back afterwards.

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+1!

Thevesh said:

I had it and do not recommend it. reasons:

uneven rotor wear towards the edges
rotors lasted half a season then I had to replace them
it just doesn't feel/break any better compared to stock, it is a cosmetic change
I actually snapped the left rotor during racing (material flaw?)
did I mention changing pads is bothersome with standard calipers?

Go for small 4 or 2 piston racing caliper preferably with floating rotors. It will cost you a little bit more but you wont look back afterwards.

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thats exactly the info i was looking for - especially the part about the SNAPPED rotor

Anyone else who HAS the kit ??

THANKS !

Grip said:

I was actually talking with Maximum Motorsports about doing just that. Basically you need to find a rotor with the same bolt pattern and a similar offset and then just fab up a strong bracket for the rear caliper. I wanted to use the stock front rotors, but they're too thick for the caliper as is.

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How would the parking brake work using the front caliper on the rear?

Gray Ghost GT said:

How would the parking brake work using the front caliper on the rear?

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Easy...it wouldn't!

i've installed these before on one of my customers cars and personally think they're useless you're a drifter or simply want the bigger brakes look to fill the gap on larger wheels.

the price tag was ridiculous, and the installation involved having the rear axle shafts removed to replace the mounting brackets (so a couple hours work, plus differential fluid, etc)

if your looking from a performance end I wouldn't spend your money . the rear caliper is plenty for this car . keep in mind the weight your going to add as well. I would think the only reason to switch would be to get cheaper pads or thicker pads that will last much longer.

STEVE_POE said:

I would think the only reason to switch would be to get cheaper pads or thicker pads that will last much longer.

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Those are the reasons why I upgraded to Wilwood calipers along with the ease of changing pads. One retaining bolt and they slide out. The stock rear caliper may be fine if you're (1) autoxing; (2) drag racing; (3) or road racing a stripped down car like a FR500 or AI race car, which is 300+ lbs less than a stock Mustang GT.

the steeda kit in question only swaps out the disc to a larger 2 piece disc and relocates the stock calipers to fit while retaining the stock pads.

Edit: it's also worth mentioning that when you brake, the car's weight transfers forward and most braking is done by the front brakes.. so unless you're after the looks or have a setup in which you need improved rear brakes (drifting?) i think this kit isn't worth the money

Gray Ghost GT said:

Those are the reasons why I upgraded to Wilwood calipers along with the ease of changing pads. One retaining bolt and they slide out.

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That would be the only reason I would ever consider that upgrade. Changing rear pads is a PITA.

Not sure if it's a $1000 PITA, though

Seems like a total waste of money to me.

Well, unless you needz sick lookin' rotors, yo!

I didn't have too much trouble changing the rear pads. You just need some muscles. Take the caliper in your left hand and push and twist for dear life with your right.

Vapour Trails said:

Seems like a total waste of money to me.

Well, unless you needz sick lookin' rotors, yo!

I didn't have too much trouble changing the rear pads. You just need some muscles. Take the caliper in your left hand and push and twist for dear life with your right.

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I am sure u know theres an inexpensive tool for that -

& strictly interested in input on the Steeda kit from a performance standpoint ( dont care what they look like )

Well, from a theoretical standpoint, increasing the rotor diameter will increase the pad torque applied, so just to keep the braking balance, you'd have to step the rear compound down another notch or two to match the front. Seeing as how (with the stock brake package) I went through about three sets of fronts for every rear set, you really don't need to increase the torque out back...

My experience has shown that with the stock fronts, you need to step the rear compound down one notch compared to the fronts (DTC-60 front and HT-10 rear, for example), and with a BBK up front (specifically the GT500 Brembos), the pad compounds would be identical.