302 stroker build with Paxton Centri underway...

NEED TITLE CHANGED TO ..with Kenne Bell Mammoth 2.8H

I know we all can't get enough of these build threads so I will do my best to document my build and answer questions along the way (and ask several too). This build out will be completed by me in my basement garage with an average set of mechanical skills, above average research ability and plenty of tools. I research a lot and have done all the wrenching on the stang to date.. I have confidence it can be done by a DIYer especially since the short block is built. My local tuning shop in Atlanta Ga is injectedengineering . Aric Carrington and the Ryans. They are great to deal with and perfectionists like me.My neighbor Mike also helps when I need a third hand.

By day I am a IT Manger, by night, weekends etc I wrench on my stang to push it faster down the 1/4. If I am lucky my daughters will drop down to see what dad is up to and lend a hand and and if I am extremely lucky my wife will keep her patience up during this build while she parks her DD outside ;-(

Enough with the days of our lives crap...We have a lot of work to do...Here we go..

With most projects at the office I start out with stating my goals as to keep me in check with the "end game".

1. Mid 10 second 1/4 (c16 race fuel) with DD tune on 93 pump or E85
2. Street-able with a dual tune (DD and Race)
3. Pickup as many slightly used parts as possible to keep cost down

Major parts ("current build" are items currently part of my 11.6 second mustang...everything else "Oh Hand" is going to be added power in some cases and strengthening parts in others)

1. I just picked up a KB Mammoth so the Paxton Is SOLD! Getting twin screwed! Paxton HO 2200 Air to Air - Current build with 3.17 pulley at 13.5 lbs of boost on stock bottom, (505 RWHP on pump gas, 550 on ms 109 unleaded) Current build..with all these changes?? Not sure
2. stage 3 cnc ported heads Manley 1mm ov size exhaust valves, seals, comp springs and titanium springs.
3. Fore tripple with 2 fort GT pumps and 2 single 20amp BAPs
4. 3.25" pulley
5. Bullet custom grind cams for my blowers
6. Livernois/PAC drop in high load valve springs - arrived
7. Triangle Speed Shop converted FRPP oil pump with Billet gears - On hand
8. ARP head Studs -
9. Pypes long tube offroad H - On Hand
10. Innovators West 10% OD pulley - On hand
11. 8 rib
12. Steeda heat exchanger
13. 60 lb Injectors - Current...FRPP 80s needed? Not sure yet.
14. Morosso Ice box
16. Detroit TT -
17. Mcleod RST twin and billit flywheel
18. Various other suspension mods to get some traction

I am trying to get the build done so I can make the NMRA Atlanta race in April so I had better get started.

A few photos to get started

Dressed up race ready at Hooters Atlanta last summer (not me in the red hat)



Block purchased from Carl in Canada..AKA the b302 block rescued from the fronzen tundra. Great seller to deal with. Saved about a grand from b302 new stock.


I read a lot of guys were pulling the engine/tranny out as a unit. This was the route I wanted to take too. I needed to inspect the transmission ans I swore that i would never pull the transmission again after the last time. That was a fight I tell you what! ..

Here is how I connected my engine level kit. I ended up getting 4" long 10MM bolts to go thru the top 2 bell housing holes and 2 shorter ones for the front of the motor where the water pump housing attaches. The trick here is to get the harness as close as you can to the block.

With a little help from my neighbor she came out in 10 minutes...(assuming all the residual work has been done)

it was close but it came out with the radiator in and the Hood on...I dont have the factory hood prop so my hood was up a bit higher than stock.

It's a BOY!


So I bet your wondering how much time went into this to get this far. About 6 hours. 4 hours disconnecting the various systems (AC, Power Steering, Shifter, Drive Shaft, Starter harness, Intake, Fuel Rails, Mounts)

2 hours getting that harness/engine puller in and positioned like I wanted it to.

10 minutes to pull the engine. I lost a lot of tranny fulid since I removed the speed O module from the drivers side. I thought it was going to hit the firewall on the way out so I played it safe. Looking back I had plenty of room. Fluid came out of that hole.

If you are wondering where I stand on this build.. I am actually catching up documenting this build as I Currently have the block 1/2 way disassembled so in the next few nights I will upload some more photos and cover some of the steps I took that might be more challenging for the average guy. Progress is slowing down since I just ordered the custom cut cams, McLeod RST to RXT conversion requires me to ship the clutch to California etc..etc.

Happy to answer questions...hoping for some encouragement from the forum..

Nice! I'm hoping to have my new shortblock in this spring with the Paxton 2200 aswell. Good luck with the build and keep us posted.

Subscribed, good luck with the build. Hope to see you in Atlanta in April.

Adding long tubes? Would deffinetly be worth while for your build.

Hope all goes well and looking forward to the progress!

95ragtop said:

Adding long tubes? Would deffinetly be worth while for your build.

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Yep... Pypes long tube offroad H - On Hand. Out back is a bassani SS race setup. should rock the neighbors

I am stewing over a few things. What's your opinion?

1. which BOV to use now now that I am going blow thru plus 15-20 PSI. Anyone using the TIAL setup? My tuner suggested the Vortech mondo race but I think that was due to first hand experience with the mondo versus no experience with the TIAL BOV. Are TIALs more or less a turbo vender? I like the physical size of the TIAL and they have a 3" pipe with TIAL adapter that should slip right into my plumbing. Here is what I was considering http://www.tialsport.com/prod_bv_50.htm

WOW! You're well orgainized car builder. All that work and then you have to stop after only 1/4 mile. GL.

MOTORCITYBADBOY said:

WOW! You're well orgainized car builder. All that work and then you have to stop after only 1/4 mile. GL.

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I am going to want to drive this on the street too LOL. I just want it quick in the quarter. It gets real interesting in the curves on the pizza cutters and the front sway bar delete.

Anyone have any feedback on my BOV questions.

TSS billet gear arrived today from Texas.

Bump for a few questions asked. Maybe id be better double posting in this section with a separate question..

Sweet build, congrats...

All mounted up on the engine stand. Not a simple task unto itself. Get yourself 4 10mm bolts and depending on the thickness of your stand you may need 5" length like I did.

Removing the valve covers was quick and here is what it looked like after 30k miles





Took this shot to show off the factory Ford silicone material used to join the top of the timing cover and the heads. There are 4 similar blobs of silicone after you remove the timing cover



My dad was a machinist and gave me his collection of tools when he passed away a few years back. I always seem to find the right tool when I look in there. I was about to go to the auto parts store to rent a 3 jaw puller and low and behold...there it was. Thanks Dad! I soaked it in PB blaster for a few hours and after attaching the puller to the balancer..it slid right off.



Notice more factory silicone in the cotter key.



More silicone where the front cover, block and oil pan meet. Notice the RED 6. I marked the various bolts on the front cover and marked the appropriate location on the timing cover since there are 5-6 various bolt sizes that go on the cover. This way it's simple to know what goes where. I also bag and tag all the bolts per parts removed.



Shot of the timing gear for the crank. Under that is the two sprockets for the twin timing chains.



Close up of the 2 lower timing sprockets and the unique links used to ensure proper timing..



After looking over the FORD manual and comparing my timing chains and the corresponding marks on the pulleys the factory did not follow the ford service manual for lining up the chains. The indicator links are both two links off counter clock wise. Since they are both consistently wrong it's still timed up properly...obviously since she has 3k miles. When I go back together with my new chains she will go back with the links properly lined up per the manual.



Passenger side cam phaser

My next procedure is to remove the heads but I dont have a spring compresser. Got to break down and buy one soon. I am also waiting on my cams from bullet to get build and ground. I am on the fence if I will reassemble the heads or have MV performance or Proline reassemble them with the cams and springs since they will require re shimming.

You will find that when you put the chains back on the engine and line the marked links up to the to timing marks once you rotate the crank over the marked links will not line back up with the timing marks on the crank and the cam gears. You will see the same thing as you did taking it apart, the marked chain will end up equal links away from the timing marks. This is normal.

Good to konw 1lowtoy. Thanks

Sweet, those wheels look badass btw!

Me too. Wha'ts your name (not that it will be hard to pick out your ride from the crowd...sweet ride and good look with the build)

SherrodMustang said:

Subscribed, good luck with the build. Hope to see you in Atlanta in April.

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Whats up man, i see you didnt sell the car! Great build by the way!!

can't wait to see the results

I'm not lining up with you this year at NMRA! I am still pissed that I forgot to arm the nitrous last year when we lined up during True Street!
Are you racing Super Stang this year again?

I just replaced the valve springs on my car and used the Freedom Racing 3v spring compressor. Worked great once I got the hang of it. Getting to the back driver's side ones with the engine in the car was not fun but doable.

Good luck with the build. Also, Why don't you make your race tune on the E85? I just witnessed a Supersnake being tuned by John Lund break 1000rwhp on E85.

EDIT:That was on a mustang dyno no less at L&M engine's shop.

Ive been talking to GI JOe on the boards here about running e85. I am seriously using that as my race fuel tune and getting a 55barrel drum of e98. I need more parts to do it though. I should convert to return style and 80lbers.

Updates:

1. I just paid for a freedom tool this morning so it's on the way.

2. Mark from bullet cams called. Good news. He is shipping out my blower cams and PAC drop in springs. I am still contemplating weather or not I should do my own cam/spring/valve swap. The tech at bullet cams said I will have to shim the springs after I measure the seated height since I am swapping valves too.