There's been some hit and miss threads on alternators and what works, what doesnt, and what's shitty. Since my factory OEM alternator first took a dump at 25k/mi and was replaced with an OEM reman unit, I have been plagued with electrical trolls. Wierd things pop up here and there, funky readings (at one point my livewire recorded 15.5v steady, a few months later 12.5v, last month 14.5v), and the flickering headlights. It is no secret the 6g alternators are piles of dog heave. People have also upgraded to the PA alternators and that seems random at best as to whether it is an upgrade or will fail inside a year. There are other prospects worthy of note, such as the Denso line of performance alternators (even the OEM 2010 alternator) and Mr. Amp, ect.
For me, I feel the police interceptor 215amp alternator never got enough discussion. For the price ($130 after core return for me) ranging from $100-$200 it is possibly the best bang for your buck. Good luck with part numbers, my NAPA receipt says #213-8483 but doesnt yield results on their website. When i ordered at the counter, we looked up a 2008 crown vic police interceptor package, which listed 3 alternators. A 135amp, 190amp, and 215amp. I ordered the 215, though its far more than I will ever need.
It should be noted that the police interceptor alternator is slightly longer than the OEM Mustang 6g, not sure if a PD blown application will clear, depending on placement. Also the 3-wire connection and output stud are in different positions, as seen in the pics. It is neccessary to remove the output stud extension, as even when modified and clocked, will not clear the bottom of the intake manifold on the mustang. You will want some nylon spacers/washers to put between the casing and cable. I also re-used the nut off my OEM stud as it has a floating washer attatched.
I did not upgrade the alternator wire currently, I just needed to get that raggedy POS 6g off my car while I wait on plates for my truck. I do plan on upgrading to a #4 residential wire. I run all my automotive power wires in residential grade wire. They are more compact and capable of carrying higher amps/volts at continuous power without worrying about heating the wires. They can be more difficult to work with because of the thicker individual wire strands make them stiff. Whatever you choose to use, make sure you upgrade that alternator cable, as it is not rated for 215 amps, and if you run heavy electronics, the alternator will try to push it.
I will add to this thread and update as I go.
For me, I feel the police interceptor 215amp alternator never got enough discussion. For the price ($130 after core return for me) ranging from $100-$200 it is possibly the best bang for your buck. Good luck with part numbers, my NAPA receipt says #213-8483 but doesnt yield results on their website. When i ordered at the counter, we looked up a 2008 crown vic police interceptor package, which listed 3 alternators. A 135amp, 190amp, and 215amp. I ordered the 215, though its far more than I will ever need.
It should be noted that the police interceptor alternator is slightly longer than the OEM Mustang 6g, not sure if a PD blown application will clear, depending on placement. Also the 3-wire connection and output stud are in different positions, as seen in the pics. It is neccessary to remove the output stud extension, as even when modified and clocked, will not clear the bottom of the intake manifold on the mustang. You will want some nylon spacers/washers to put between the casing and cable. I also re-used the nut off my OEM stud as it has a floating washer attatched.
I did not upgrade the alternator wire currently, I just needed to get that raggedy POS 6g off my car while I wait on plates for my truck. I do plan on upgrading to a #4 residential wire. I run all my automotive power wires in residential grade wire. They are more compact and capable of carrying higher amps/volts at continuous power without worrying about heating the wires. They can be more difficult to work with because of the thicker individual wire strands make them stiff. Whatever you choose to use, make sure you upgrade that alternator cable, as it is not rated for 215 amps, and if you run heavy electronics, the alternator will try to push it.
I will add to this thread and update as I go.
If nothing else, you can always fix an exhaust leak on the go! Just unplug your positive battery leads, rev the engine, and tac away!
