Yes Drew I sure can.
Planning a Ford Racing “Aluminator” Build with associated mods over the winter
- Thread starter Scott
- Start date
Yes Drew I sure can.
I concur! Fantastic Scott!
Thanks Tim! Took the car out of the garage today for a wash and a wee test drive. I was worried that the drag radials were a little too close to the shocks and they are. In anticipation I ordered 1/4" billet wheel spacers last week from Maximum Motorsport. Likely will take another week or so to ship to me as I picked USPS since we are often not hassled for duty and taxes with USPS. Before I finished the wash it started to rain so no more aired out pictures yet. Lesson learned shortening the differential 3/4" per side may have been just about perfect. I did absolutely no measuring or math on the combination before starting, but knowing I can always add wheel spacers made me go with the one inch because if 3/4" was not enough to tuck the tires in there was nothing I could do.
one eyed willy
Pizzle fo shizzle
Nice!
05stroker
Never enough power guy!
Where the tires just rubing the dust covers or the shock itself?
Picture from my Air Lift install. Air Lift shocks have no covers. I have not pulled the tires off yet but I expect it to be rubbing about where the white label is.
05stroker
Never enough power guy!
Reason I asked is because my 325s rubbed my dust covers and after the covers were removed they were fine. Looks like your shock bodys are taller then mine though in the pics.
Pulled the tires off today and confirmed the location of the rubbing. Just beyond the edge of the rim.
Installed Maximum Motorsports ¼” thick wheel spacers, part number MMWS-2.
And now we have a little clearance.
Raining today so road testing will have to wait until tomorrow.
Installed Maximum Motorsports ¼” thick wheel spacers, part number MMWS-2.
And now we have a little clearance.
Raining today so road testing will have to wait until tomorrow.
Wild White Pony
forum member
Scott did you finish the IAT relocation? I'm doing that now and was wondering where you located yours on the FRPP intake. Was thinking that the bottom of the intake was pretty flat after the TB and may be a good place to locate IIRC, will have to pull the TB and check. If you did finish post up a pic of location.
Kurt have not done it yet. I was going to place it as in this picture from John, LAStang1234.
Wild White Pony
forum member
Great! thank's for posting up that pic Scott of LAStang1234 setup, let me know if install in the same location I might flip over the intake and take a look for a nice spot underneath. I worry about drilling holes in that intake it just seems thin and all to many videos of it flexing with boost. I'm going to up the pressure with a V7 JT-B as soon as I finish fabbing the 3.5" intercooler pipes up to fit a custom AA intercooler I had Jeremy make for me.
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Substituted Race Star direct fit 17x7 with BFG Advantage T/A 215/70R 17’s for the Race Star multi-fit 17x4.5 with M&H Racemaster 185/55R 17’s that I had on the car.
Swapped out the 3" Magnaflow cat backs for 3" MBRP cat backs. The MBRP are about 3/4" more "air bag friendly" than the Magnaflow exhaust.
Swapped out the 3" Magnaflow cat backs for 3" MBRP cat backs. The MBRP are about 3/4" more "air bag friendly" than the Magnaflow exhaust.
Backup Camera Install
Have had the Pioneer AVIC-8000NEX GPS Receiver installed since September 2014 but just this spring I picked up a Pioneer ND-BC6 Backup Camera.
This is a stick on camera and I am positioning it to the passenger side of the license plate light.
Started the install this afternoon by proceeding as follows (no pictures of the install process as all four batteries for my point and shoot camera were dead):
1. Removed the two screws with a Philips screwdriver and dropped the license plate light housing.
2. Disconnected the license plate light harness.
3. Opened the trunk and removed the back panel push pins and removed the back panel.
4. Using an 11mm deep socket and ¼” ratchet removed the three nuts retaining the passenger side tail light.
5. Carefully removed the tail light.
6. Fished a small diameter piece of bamboo (only thing I had as I could not find a wire coat hanger) from the license plate light hole to the bumper opening below the tail light.
7. Positioned the camera, marked the position for the backup camera wire to pass through the bumper with an awl.
8. Drilled a pilot hole and then a 7/16” hole which was large enough for the backup camera connector end to pass through.
9. Passed the backup camera connector through the hole and out the license plate light hole.
10. Taped the backup camera wire connector to the end of the bamboo and pulled the connector and wire up through to the passenger tail light.
11. Made a slit in a rubber grommet and pulled the connector and wire through into the trunk.
12. Cleaned the mounting position with some alcohol and stuck the camera on.
13. Sliced a grommet inserted the camera wire and pushed the grommet into the whole with a small screwdriver.
14. Connected the light harness back into the light housing and remounted the license plate housing with the two Philips screws.
15. Re-Installed the passenger side tail light.
A Camera battery was finally charged enough for a picture.
Next up is routing the backup camera wire harness through the trunk, under the rear seat delete panel, into the center console and finally to the radio.
Have had the Pioneer AVIC-8000NEX GPS Receiver installed since September 2014 but just this spring I picked up a Pioneer ND-BC6 Backup Camera.
This is a stick on camera and I am positioning it to the passenger side of the license plate light.
Started the install this afternoon by proceeding as follows (no pictures of the install process as all four batteries for my point and shoot camera were dead):
1. Removed the two screws with a Philips screwdriver and dropped the license plate light housing.
2. Disconnected the license plate light harness.
3. Opened the trunk and removed the back panel push pins and removed the back panel.
4. Using an 11mm deep socket and ¼” ratchet removed the three nuts retaining the passenger side tail light.
5. Carefully removed the tail light.
6. Fished a small diameter piece of bamboo (only thing I had as I could not find a wire coat hanger) from the license plate light hole to the bumper opening below the tail light.
7. Positioned the camera, marked the position for the backup camera wire to pass through the bumper with an awl.
8. Drilled a pilot hole and then a 7/16” hole which was large enough for the backup camera connector end to pass through.
9. Passed the backup camera connector through the hole and out the license plate light hole.
10. Taped the backup camera wire connector to the end of the bamboo and pulled the connector and wire up through to the passenger tail light.
11. Made a slit in a rubber grommet and pulled the connector and wire through into the trunk.
12. Cleaned the mounting position with some alcohol and stuck the camera on.
13. Sliced a grommet inserted the camera wire and pushed the grommet into the whole with a small screwdriver.
14. Connected the light harness back into the light housing and remounted the license plate housing with the two Philips screws.
15. Re-Installed the passenger side tail light.
A Camera battery was finally charged enough for a picture.
Next up is routing the backup camera wire harness through the trunk, under the rear seat delete panel, into the center console and finally to the radio.
swflastang05
Back for More
Got tired of the skinnies? Yea I see the new exhaust leaves a little more room to work with, I have the 3" Magnflow on my car, it's kind of a PITA to install and leaves very little room. As always, lookin' good,
Thanks Kyle! Was more of an issue of "direct fit" versus the "multi fit" rims. While the 215 tires are clearly a bit heavier than the 185's the 7" rims are only 2.5lbs each heavier than the 4.5" rims and the 7" offer so much more stability on the street I thought it made sense.
I don't have great before and after pictures with the Magnaflow versus MBRP exhaust but I can see the difference on the tire side wall.
Conversion to BMR Adjustable A-Arms
Want to narrow the front track slightly since the front tires on the 17x7 Race Stars are very close to kissing the inner fenders when the bags are aired out. I currently have BMR Non-Adjustable tubular A-Arms in the car, part number AA010.
The plan is to use BMR adjustable A-Arms, part number AA026 with tall 19mm ball joints for 10 – 14 Mustangs. I have these A-Arms in inventory and they will permit narrowing the track approximately 1/2" per side.
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=978&superpro=0
I also have the BMR Hardware Kit to go along with the new A-Arms, part number RH014.
Since the 05 – 09 Mustangs use 18mm ball joints I need to acquire 2010+ spindles. I have had a 2011 LH spindle for a couple months now but just last week located a RH 2011 Spindle at the right price with reasonable shipping from an Auto Recycler.
The tear down and cleanup process ended only after a few minutes once it was time to remove the hubs. Will need to hunt some for a socket to fit the spindle nuts!
Want to narrow the front track slightly since the front tires on the 17x7 Race Stars are very close to kissing the inner fenders when the bags are aired out. I currently have BMR Non-Adjustable tubular A-Arms in the car, part number AA010.
The plan is to use BMR adjustable A-Arms, part number AA026 with tall 19mm ball joints for 10 – 14 Mustangs. I have these A-Arms in inventory and they will permit narrowing the track approximately 1/2" per side.
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=978&superpro=0
I also have the BMR Hardware Kit to go along with the new A-Arms, part number RH014.
Since the 05 – 09 Mustangs use 18mm ball joints I need to acquire 2010+ spindles. I have had a 2011 LH spindle for a couple months now but just last week located a RH 2011 Spindle at the right price with reasonable shipping from an Auto Recycler.
The tear down and cleanup process ended only after a few minutes once it was time to remove the hubs. Will need to hunt some for a socket to fit the spindle nuts!
05stroker
Never enough power guy!
IIRC those spindle nuts torque to some insane amount like 225 ft lbs or something like that.
My youngest daughter's boyfriend had the correct socket for the spindle nuts.
Always something, I will have to check out the 2011 torque specifications. Pretty sure my 1/2 wrench only goes to 200 ft-lbs.
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