Let's say you're building a 3V for 450 rwhp (since this thread is about 3Vs). You can achieve that with the GT450 kit with the M122.
Your objective is to maximize reliability and longevity, however, along with the ability to daily drive (12k miles per year) in up to 100* weather without ridiculously-high IATs. So what additional parts would you add to the kit? Obviously, you would want a huge heat exchanger and high-volume pump. Would you utilize a different belt and/or tensioner to reduce shock on the crank and blower? A larger-diameter pulley on the blower to slightly reduce boost, harmonics, and parasitic loss?
Like I said, I overengineer for reliability.
For the 10-12 cars, toss the useless oem upper grille, it impedes airflow like crazy. Once the 7 bar grille is installed, you will have also eliminated 2 x 90 deg bends into the cai.
Ceramic coated LT's and your choice of catted or uncatted H or X. That will reduce underhood temps by 40 F. And this is before modifying the hood for hood vents etc.
Any HE setup is not optimum.... if you can't get air through it. Ceramic coated LT's + high flow cats won't cook the eng bay. Oem cats will easily hit 1900 F..and located at base of eng bay. Oem exhaust from the block on wards will also cook the eng bay.
For DD street/ hwy / road course use, and high outside ambient temps, cut way back on the boost..the LT's will make up for the power.
The VMP gen 2 blower (tvs2300) is elbowless, way more eff than the original roush tvs / vmp gen 1 blowers. Another 2+ psi boost on the gen 2 blower... with the same size blower pulley. Great, now you can increase the blower pulley even more, to reduce boost back to it's former level.....and reduce it yet again for track / high ambient temps / use.
The 11-14 cars will all do 440 rwhp..with no blower (just tune + LT's + cai). If you wanted to keep it really conservative, say 475-500 rwhp, it's hardly worth the expense + weight of a blower... for the extra 35-60 rwhp.