Recent content by DrTriton

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    Timing area weird noise: (not the tick, not a rattle)

    Almost sounds like pump cavitation to me. Did you leave a heater hose unhooked to allow air to escape while you were re-filling the coolant system? Try turning the heater on full blast with the car at full operating temp for 5 - 10 minutes. Also you can try and vacuum bleed the air out using...
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    13-14 GT500 55# fuel injectors?

    The 13-14 GT500 fuel injectors should have a part # prefix of "DR3V" on the body.
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    Main bearing cap removal

    No jack screws on the 4.6 3V or the Coyote 5L.
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    T56 Magnum XL install on 5.0L

    I used a GT500 trans harness and had the cal changed to enable the lockout solenoid. Works like factory.
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    Ordering a Magnum XL kit soon. Looking for clutch/FW options........

    If you do want a McLeod RXT I have the complete set up to go in the '11-up cars with the XL trans that is in perfect shape with zero track time I will let go cheap. It was too aggressive for my taste so I put a '13 GT500 clutch in my car.
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    Engine noise around 3k rpm ?

    I was going to say, check your muffler bolts!! :thud: Glad you found it...I hate weird noises that you can never figure out...every car I've owned has had at least one...........
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    Please Help Indentify This Sound

    Are you talking about the rotational rubbing sound? Not sure about the source (almost sounds like a dry bearing, but your car is too new). Go find yourself one of those cheap automotive stethoscopes and place the probe on the various sub-components of the front-end drive (alternator...
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    [Strange clutch issue] Progressively stiff pedal, can't shift above 6k rpms

    Sounds just like my '11 GT. High RPM shifts also seem like I am not getting complete disengagment - trans shifts very rough. I haven't taken my car to the dealer yet because I really don't feel like having a tech drive the hell out of it to try and replicate the problem, plus next week I'm...
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    Engine build question?

    It all really depends on how much of a factor reliability is to you. All our high HP applications running 8 and 9 second quarter mile times use the 9.5:1 engine. Can you make 1000 whp using an 11:1 engine, sure. I personally wouldn't do it - not going to debate why. We've built a few...
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    Engine build question?

    I would lower the C/R personally. Boss rod and main bearings are all tri-metal. Base Coyote bearings are aluminum. The only difference between the two cranks is the balance. They both start out as the same forging.
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    Engine build question?

    The weak spot in the factory block is around the water jacket ports at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions. At the 1000 HP level you are at the point where it could become compromised. Be aware.... The Boss head change kit is nice but no one can really tell you what the ultimate HP limit of those...
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    Engine build question?

    You might also consider using the Boss rod and main bearings - they are tri-metal and actually perform very well at high HP levels. If you follow the factory grading spec then you also end up with a nice quiet engine. Not knocking the Clevites - we use lots of them, but not on Coyote engines.
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    Engine build question?

    It's on 700+ RWHP engines.
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    Engine build question?

    Don't waste your money on the ARP studs. The current 5.0L bottom end is solid even with the stock bolts. On the old pushrod 5.0L the caps would walk around but we don't see it happening on the Coyote motors. I've disassembled and inspected several after repeated dyno pulls, calibration work...
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    thrust bearing help!

    Make sure you apply a forward axial load to the crankshaft before you tighten #5 cap up. Otherwise you risk wiping out that upper thrust bearing.
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