Recent content by oh5gt

Had to reset the ABS codes with my scanner. Seems all is fine now. Thanks everyone

New sensors installed. ABS and Traction Control lights still on. Don't know if FailSafe is going to show or not. Have to wait till next weekends races. If FailSafe shows I'll try pulling fuses. In the meantime battery is disconnected so maybe it'll magically reset itself.

Have not posted on the site for a while. Hope someone can help. Before the dont do it responses start. Here is whats happening. Track only car. 8.8 rearend, spool, 35 spline axles, c-clip eliminaters. Past weekend at the track , on Friday night for a totally unrelated reason I had the drivers...

Thanks everyone. All great suggestions. Yes, the tire are on their last two weekends. Still though, I am not getting any wheel spin. I expect some improvement with new tires. Now the big thing. Just spent a hour or so checking the measurments. Turns out the UCA is flat. Both front and rear...

Car always runs 60 foots of 1.74 to 1.76 with occassional dipps up or down. I've always ran 4:10 gears. Late last year the track changed from 1/4 to 1/8 mile so this season I switched to 4:56 gears. 60 foots today were all 1.9's. Other than cutting half a coil out of the rears all suspension...

QA Singles on front, Viking double on back here. I race in a straight line only. The corner carvers might have different opinions. I don't mess with the back ajustments much but have to stiffen the front for the street.

I agree, 500 feet is not enough. I think though that the 500 feet is the braking distance to the return road. The absolute end is another 200 feet. Not that it matters, its still short.

Yes. I wish my problem was that big.

Ok. Heres whats going on. After almost 20 years of operation our little 1/4 mile strip is closing. It operated more as a club than a business and the racers typically had input in its operations. It was a great atmosphere, operated every second weekend, participant numbers were low enough to get...

Like BruceH said. Are the bolts all the way out? It might appear that the bolt pinches the sleeve around ball joint. In-fact the ball joint has a shoulder that the bolt sits next to. Keeps the ball joint from falling out. Remove the bolt all the way and tap with a hammer. Should fall out.

I used regular T50 here too, just two nights ago. No problem. I dont think the service techs that replace the bolts puts them in super tight anyway, so it should loosen without much effort.

Somewhere I read something from a tranmission builder about square pegs in round holes. Something to do with forward and reverse gears seperated in the valve body not allowing a position between the two. Thats what I remember anyway. Someone who knows more will correct me.

Wow. fast reply. Ok. Thats exactly what I will do. Thanks.

Ok. Here goes. I did a quick search but have not found another with this issue. Recently I installed new BMR adjustable front control arms, QA1 R series coil overs, QA1 camber plates, and QA1 bump steer tie rod ends. In effort to correct the wide track look that the RaceStar wheels make I've...

Dynotech uses the adapter piece so probably not the culprit.