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If you still have it in September I'll take it..

No 2 step launches fine.

Im leaving at 5k, its like its killing timing and limiting throttle not straight up bogging, I didn't have this problem before. I may turn off the 2 step and try to launch it.

I have a 2012 with the N2mb Wot box installed, and when I launch on 2 step it bogs after I catch traction. I have advancetrac off, however it kills power like its on. Is this a tire size, gear issue since I have a TR6060 with 4.10's and I'm running a 13.5'' x 28'' radial? Or is it a problem with...

If you split with the ball and handle I'd like to buy the rear bushing.

Alright, let me check some funds and I'll get back to you.

Id be interested if they fit under 15'' wheels, and would these bolt on to a 12'?

I have TR6060 in my car, and it works great. If you can source a transmission used its the best way to go, if not just got with a T56 its worth it. I only live about an hour from D&D though..

Why must you torture my wallet.... Anyone looking for a full TR6060 swap??? lmao.

No they were torqued dry.

Yeah the snowpocalypes effed my travel plans.

Made it 3000+ miles and no issues. Went for a ride into a ditch in Ohio as well, cars fine just a wild ride.

Just an update, I've got over 1100 miles in on this road trip and I haven't had any problems yet. I still have to head back home to the frigid north.

I'm taking it on a cruise from Flint Michigan to Auburn Alabama so well see.

I think as heavy as this drive shaft is, it was more than a few ounces. It weighs almost as much as the stock one.

I think it had more to do with harmonics then force, the drive shaft was steel so it wasn't light. Take a 5lb weight and spin around with it in one hand. I know that will pull me off center and I weigh 200 lbs. Before I was doing 1.7 60' ft times on a 325 DR, and didn't break them. That was all...

The driver's side is the side that the ring gear is attached to, like I said I think the driveshaft was causing wheel hop and the studs were breaking before the LSD locked up all the way.

I've never seen it done that way, I've always done it the way I've been doing it. Like I said its also on the driver side. I installed the passenger side the same way and they've been fine.

I have BMR LCA's but not a UCA. My driveshaft was missing a weight, plus the design wasn't very good. It wasn't a brand name one but one I purchased from a place which I will not name. The CV was in the front, and the yoke would only allow you use four bolts. Like I said before I'm almost sure...

Well there is no long a vibration after 80 miles an hour, I took it all the way up to 130 and there was still no vibration. Normal driving never broke the lug studs, only burnouts or loss of traction. I had 10k miles on the last set of studs, lost traction leaving a light hard once and snapped 3...

Basically I did everything that I'd break wheel studs doing before, and I didn't break one. All I did was check for a bent axle and it wasn't bent. Changed the drive shaft did the same things no more broken wheel studs. If you don't understand cool, but like it or not changing the drive shaft...

I had it on jack stands and it rolled fine, and like I've said it's did it on three sets of wheels. Also for the one wheel things about the way the suspension links into the rear end, the drive shaft and the way the limited slip works. There aren't mounts on the outer most edge of the the axles...

It was the drive shaft causing wheel hop, I installed a factory GT500 drive shaft and ripped a few big burn outs on the street. None of the issues I used to have. My theory is that since my one piece was imbalanced so that when I was loosing traction it was vibrating the rear end like wheel hop...

I know I dont have mine.