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Jump to 5:39 for the start. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F61BIF80bso

I'm using Bilstien HD's with MM road and track springs right now. Stiffer than the P and K springs by a bit. I DD mine everyday. Track tested and runs well, 2.02 at Buttonwillow with that set up. Just a tad slower than my Coil over set up that needs rebuilding atm.

So am I, Had to drive though it. there was just no way around it, I tried.

Yeah. Oh and RACK ! lol!

Can't really tell what did it. And yes you would think they were water proof, or maybe it was just it's time ? I know my horn it also blown, poor thing just squeaks. By puddles I mean up to 200 yards of foot and a half of water many times.

I was on my way to Button willow Raceway to play on Saturday. Got about 45 min from home, driving along, Ka-Pow ! My Epas rack went out. I flipped around, drove home. Let me tell ya, it was a bitch going around a corner. Got it home check the power block by the battery, that was good...

I would go with the Ford Racing Boss 302R arms, I use them for the street and do very well. http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-boss302r-lca-0514.html At the Track I like the Boss 302S arms and I have on most of the time. http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-boss302s-lca-0512.html For the upper...

I run the Grand Am/Steeda 2005-2009 rear wing on my car. And if any front splitter. 2010-11 Grand Am style. I do have a Boss 302 WC splitter and a custom 2 inch splitter in the works, as well as the stock boss street splitter that I just leave off. With that said, I have the Tiger Racing hood...

MustAsh, grab one. then set your front bar to stiff. https://www.partrequest.com/auto-parts-detail/05-06-07-08-09-ford-mustang-gt-v6-18mm-rear-sway-bar-6r335a771bb-251643157067...

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Rear-Bumpstop-2005-14-Mustang-pair-P1447.aspx

Before you put the rear bar back on, just soften up the front bar , one hole at a time.. With those spring rate. a 18MM rear bar may be all you need if you leave the front on full stiff. my $.02, never been a fan of big rear sway bars.

Here's a walk though. http://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=10409.0

You can, but there are better end links out there. Also, they just are not very stout. Seems thin and flimsy.

I bought a set, will not put them on the car.The shoulder that rests against the sway bar is to small. I feel it has very little support. Run the BMR's It is very good.

FRPP P Springs: Ft 204 lbs./in Rr 165 lbs./in * Vorshlag Tested I have ran the MM road and track springs a both Laguna Seca, Button Willow and Sears Point with good results with Koni sports. Might want to look into those as well. I don't have them on the car now. but they worked very...

I'm using the upper control arm. What I can tell you is, It's way more massive that the photo on AM makes it look. It has two Lock nuts not one like the photo they show. The clevis if your wondering is very stout, thick and braced with little flex when bolted in. I see no way that the wield...

If you have an 11 then the Polly bushings way/will cause a shudder. You track your car, then replace the rack. 12-13 rack should do it, I played it safe and got a 13 GT rack for 19" wheels. Have had no issues ever since.

The connection to the fan tend to get lose and over heat. I started to melt mine. I pulled it off the fan and took a small screw driver and closed up the pins inside the pig tail. Forced it back on, No issue since, I ordered two new pig tails just in case.

In not as many words that's what I said, I use both setups depending on street or track.

If you use a Oil separators your PCV still must work. Your just adding a catch can in between the heads and the intake. If however you want to use the race car style breather then you have to cap off the intake ports and run both hoses to the Peterson breather can.

I have run the updated PCV from a 2013 Ecoboost F-150 helps keep more oil out of the intake. Like this one. http://www.nextdayauto.com/2013-ford-f-150-pcv-valve-v8-5-0-motorcraft-w0133-1766869.html

This might help. http://bossmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=6652.0

:clap: Just checked my build sheet, you are right.

The FR500s spring are Eibach's Front are 800-250-500. Rears are 800-250-300. They are for a Coil over set up. Street, the best your going to get is the Maximum Springs Front: 320-360 lb/in. The rate is progressive and approximate, ramping up from 320 lb/in at ride height to 360 lb/in at 2"...

If you need to rebuild the rear boots here's a link to the parts. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/shop_years/ford-mustang-brake-caliper-repair-kit-2011.html