Search results for query: *

Ah I was thinking the arms themselves are the 302S arms from 11+. That's very odd. I did notice my kit came with an extra set of prothane bushings, as if the kit could be used for two applications. Did you receive six bushings total with yours?

Something doesn't seem right - I also have them on my 2013 and didn't have that kind of issue. What year is the car they went on to? I'm not familiar enough with the differences to say for sure, but FRPP lists them as an 11-14 part.

I'd work with what you have first before spending any money. What are your dampers set at, and what position is your rear bar on (if you have the adjustable one)?

+1 for SCCA Track Nights, great entry level events and well worth taking a day off or half a day if you need to. The few I've been to have had far less attendance than a weekend HPDE, and way more open track time. Plus, unless you're really topped off energy wise a full day at the track can be...

My vote would be for belts wonked out inside the tires, but you mentioned you swapped brakes as well. Any chance you have a sticking pad/caliper?

Yup. I'm trying to recall accurately, but I think Filip at CorteX originally sent me the 5/8 (Maximum Motorsports) spacer vs. the 1/2 inch because the 5/8 had enough material to become hubcentric, or something to that degree. I've never had a problem running a MM spacer in any width on track...

I'm sure Jason can add more on this than me, but in my track/HPDE circle the guys running Star Specs are on lighter vehicles (S2000s and Miatas, mainly). They have a tendency to overheat quickly on heavy cars, leading to the chunking and greasy feeling. They are very, very fast over the course...

^this is with the KW's and the spacer, full compression on a decreasing radius sweeper (HPDE)

I do, with a wide 305 (AD08R - 305/30R19). Right now I have the CorteX JRi offset front coilover, so I don't need to run a spacer. But before I had KW V3s, and the package fit fine with a 1/2 inch spacer (also with a 5/8) and about 2 degrees of negative camber, could probably get away with a...

^Should also mention that usage is HPDE road course and time trials + daily driving, 0 autocross.

I run 305 AD08Rs and the up-front price is a little eye-opening, but they've lasted me much, much longer than other tires (PSS, 71R, RS3, Rival S) myself and friends with similar 300+ square setups run on, so their $/event ratio is really good. I ran 7-8 events last year and daily drove on...

Yup, in the OEM world we call this a gripper bushing...spunkens up turn in a bit, but definitely adds parasitic rate, which increases wheel rate. When bar sizing is limited by other factors (supplier, etc.) it's a way to hit a certain target. I chuckle sometimes when people replace the S197...

Yep, Norm is always good for a calm,reasonable response. Your wheel and tire package is huge, so the dampers might be getting a bit overwhelmed. But with the relatively huge OEM bar sizes on our cars, people underestimate the real world effects of the bar on ride quality. The Vorshlag guys...

There is a beefier "version 2" of the same wheel (specs, etc.)? That's a little alarming. Hoping Vincent from Forgestar can shine some light on that situation for you, please keep us updated.

Terry, just for future knowledge sake, can you point out the noise for some of the rest of us? I hear a light scraping/grinding, but I think I'd otherwise attribute it to wind noise or something if I didn't know better or it wasn't pointed out. Hopefully inspections won't render this...

I used to have KW V3s on my car, and they used the 343 lb/in front spring, per KW. I wouldn't say it rode any better than my current JRi 400 lb/in, but those come with higher end monotubes and different damping. My guess is that the 286 lb spring will ride better until it doesn't - that is...

Still flipping through the main thread on another forum, but this caught my eye in his initial post:

Rear damper stroke I agree is an issue. The cortex is offset slightly lower on the lower bracket, likely to try to gain some of this back. Honestly, in the S197 world, there are some very knowledgeable shops for performance driving. I'd call up each and see which one feels right to you...

I've had the same issue with my Procal tune. Crank relearn usually fixes it, and I've gotten into the habit of going through the procedure every 3-4 months. Hasn't happened since, used to happen on clutch-in deceleration, and was seemingly random. Considering switching to the 13-14 specific...

Two newer options in the 275/35 are the AD08R and the RE71R, if you decide to go that route. I'm running 305/30/19 AD08R square and I love them, and a friend is doing well on the bridgestones

My guess is that they are the same, but made to seem proprietary so that bargain-seekers don't go elsewhere because Vorshlag prices tend to not be the cheapest. Understandable, and in my opinion if you value the support you get with the product going through a reputable vendor vs. saving a few...

Does your BMR bar have any side-to-side play? The inner bushing stop rings were way off on mine, and the bar never fit correctly.

Neema, great thread! When you get a minute, could you fill us in on how you feel about the Cortex JRi setup? It's hard to find a good review out there, and I'm on the verge of swapping my KW V3s for them (prog rate no bueno as I've started tracking).

Eibach also sells a 22MM rear bar, which is available through Cortex Racing and likely some others. That's what I run on mine, but it's pricier than the OEM small bars at about $220.

I think you want no pre-load when the car is loaded. In the last pic, it looks like that bar will move after you set the car down and the axle goes up. You can leave the jam nuts loose and adjust after the car is down.