2013 GT suspension plan - please help?

[martin_nj]

norm, there is no picture appearing for me in your post

edit > yup i see it now hehe

 

[Norm Peterson]

Refresh and look again.

I had it attached, but sometimes this site forgets that I'm logged in even in the middle of editing a post that I had to be logged in in order to even get to.


Norm

 

[martin_nj]

what tire do you have on in that pic?

 

[Norm Peterson]

Hard braking pitch motion at the end of a combined drag race/slalom/stop inside the box event. It's a little more extreme than my daily hardest braking opportunity, but not by much.

Edit - the tires are 255/45-18 Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetrics.


Norm

 

[martin_nj]

i'll need to try and get a braking shot like yours.....

here's me on the stock 235/18 all seasons taking a fairly sharp turn..

if i can get this much body movement on all seasons, i'm terrified of what will happen with sticky r compound rubber

 

[Mark@]

It all depends on your budget but there are a lot of choices for the S197.
The best part is you do not have to spend a fortune to make the car work great.
As you get to be a better driver ,shock tuning,sway bars and springs come in to play ,but for the average and intermediate drivers most out of the box kits work great.

We have had great success last year with Pedders/Saleen set up and KW parts , This year we are running Kenny Brown and Moton/AST set ups.

Our up coming RTR shop car will be running AST coil overs with Cortex parts.

Both cars will be at UTCC also. If we can help please give us a call.
Thanks Mark 804-358-2505

 

[martin_nj]

sounds good Mark - budget was mentioned on page1 somewhere - for now i've set a ceiling of $1500.

i've seen some moton stuff on my friends s2000 - really nice remote reservoir shocks yummy!

 

[jymontoya]

First- Dampers are very important. Get the best you can afford. If you are really serious about the track duty, get them dynoed and make sure they not only match eachother, but also fit well with the spring rate you choose. Quailty coilover kits generally have this done already, but it's always good to check.

Which brings me to my next point...

If I were you, I'd look a bit further into spring rates. I'm not sure what the fascination with 'Sport' springs is around here, as most are still considered too soft for open track duty. We've got a heavy car and it needs more than 300# front springs to control it correctly on the track when driven at a good pace. I'd look at the H&R Race springs if you aren't able to afford coilovers.

Now, before I get flamed... I'm not suggesting that you can't have fun out there in a soft boat... Too the contrary, I've flogged several stockish cars and had a great time, they just leave you wanting alot more. Depending on how serious you are and what your experience is, you too, may just be left wanting more if all you do is some sport springs and dampers. It's better to buy once and cry once, than to do it two, three, four... times. Ask me how I know. The experience of feeling each upgrade is invaluable, but it's not for everyone, and certainly not for every budget.

 

[Sky Render]

I rather prefer the Steeda Ultralites. They're a bit stiffer than the sport springs.

 

[martin_nj]

get them dynoed

i've seen supposed matched sets being off by more than 15% but unfort this is my daily, not my track car so i won't be going quite so far.

it needs more than 300# front springs to control it correctly on the track when driven at a good pace. I'd look at the H&R Race springs if you aren't able to afford coilovers.

this i'm in agreement with ya on - i have been trying to shy away from hte progressive stuff and snag a set of linear ones... i emailed steeda asking what their competition springs were rated for, no reply yet

I rather prefer the Steeda Ultralites. They're a bit stiffer than the sport springs.

any idea what the rates are for them? they're progressive right...?

 

[Sky Render]

Yes, the ultralites are still clearly a progressive spring:

I wouldn't drive competition springs on the street unless you want to rattle your kidneys out. This car really doesn't require a stupid-high amount of front spring. I think you'd be pretty impressed with a set of Steeda springs and Konis.

 

[jymontoya]

I wouldn't drive competition springs on the street unless you want to rattle your kidneys out. This car really doesn't require a stupid-high amount of front spring. I think you'd be pretty impressed with a set of Steeda springs and Konis.

I disagree! Unless you are used to riding in a Buick, the comp springs are still pretty low rate compared to even 'sport' springs on a BMW, s2000, Corvette... etc. Your ride quality has as much to do with your dampers as it does your springs. Again, buy the best dampers you can afford. But ultimately ride quality comes down to opinion...

Our cars do need higher spring rates than offered by the sport springs unless you plan on using BIG sway bars. I've been instructed by several race teams that sway bars should be a final tuning device, and not a real means of getting to your desired roll rate. Stiffer springs will keep the nose dive and squat to a minimum, something stiffer sways can't do.

As I recall, the Steeda comp springs are just a little stiffer than the Sports... Vogtland also makes the GT500 springs that you can use on a regular GT, which has stiffer rates yet. The H&R Race springs are about the stiffest 'spring only' option made. They are a tad low for my tastes, but they work well.

To get back on topic... If I had a $1500 budget, and were doing as many events as you, I'd probably look into the Mustang Starter box from Maximum Motorsports, as it'd designed around exactly that... http://www.maximummotorsports.com/s...e=product_info&cPath=309_337&products_id=1114

or

You could go with the H&R Coilovers which use Bilsteins, and get some CC plates. Get them dynoed/custom valved, and you have HUGE bang for your buck. http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetails.php?PartID=395&CategoryID=135&ModelID=5

or

Spend a tiny bit more and get the GC kit...

http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=666/CA=96



I'm trying to be impartial to the vendors.

 

[martin_nj]

which use Bilsteins

i am actually considering using Bils anyway since the Koni's are backordered until fall through tirerack and probably every other place as well...


i'm semi scared of getting stiff springs for the street but at the same time our cars do need it - i will prob err on the side of stiff


the one issue overall with the links you gave is that these are all 05+ specific.

ford changed things around in 11 so i'm semi hesitant to assume these will work with '13s? thoughts?

 

[Sky Render]

The Steeda rep I talked to said the Competition springs were very stiff and uncomfortable, which is why I went with the Ultralites. If I would have known they weren't that bad, I would have gotten them instead. Dang it.

i am actually considering using Bils anyway since the Koni's are backordered until fall through tirerack and probably every other place as well...


i'm semi scared of getting stiff springs for the street but at the same time our cars do need it - i will prob err on the side of stiff


the one issue overall with the links you gave is that these are all 05+ specific.

ford changed things around in 11 so i'm semi hesitant to assume these will work with '13s? thoughts?

The springs are the same on the '11s. The front struts changed but can still be used with spacers or with the 2011-specific Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates.

 

[trakhoar]

Unfortunately when it comes to suspension and stiffness/comfort, its really a wide range of what is acceptable and what is not. There are some guys on the other forum who complain about the stock brembo suspension being too stiff, but to me it felt like a big marshmallow.

 

[jmauld]

You could go with the H&R Coilovers which use Bilsteins, and get some CC plates. Get them dynoed/custom valved, and you have HUGE bang for your buck. http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetails.php?PartID=395&CategoryID=135&ModelID=5

or

Spend a tiny bit more and get the GC kit...

http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=666/CA=96




I'm trying to be impartial to the vendors.

What do you think of the KW products?

 

[devildog1679]

Koni sports, Steeda sports, BMR adjustable Panhard here. Best mod I've done.

Camber Bolts or plates are not needed unless your deadest on dialing in more negative camber or positive camber. Most end up around -1.5 with this setup. -1.5 is a pretty good compromise between street and track.

 

[Seer]

I also ran at beaver run. From around this way ?

 

[martin_nj]

I also ran at beaver run. From around this way ?

no, that track is about 6 hours left of me... i'm near philly about 40min from NJMP

Koni sports, Steeda sports, BMR adjustable Panhard here. Best mod I've done.

Camber Bolts or plates are not needed unless your deadest on dialing in more negative camber or positive camber. Most end up around -1.5 with this setup. -1.5 is a pretty good compromise between street and track.

i am leaning to go this route... might go with H&R race springs though
also don't trust those camber bolts on a race track. not 1 bit.

What do you think of the KW products?

+1 curious if you feel the entry level ones are worth it?
how do they compare to the ground control coils another member posted?

 

[jymontoya]

What do you think of the KW products?

The KW products are great, but if you are serious about track duty, you will want Camber plates... which don't come on the KW's. They have them, but you've got to pay extra. Which is weird because the Roush TrakPak was really just KW v2's and they included the camber plates for a good price. KW got to use Roush's shaker rig when developing their kits, so they've definitely got some good things going on...