RocketcarX
95% of my weight is fuel
Remove the entire bumper and test drive it, I have a feeling it will still overheat.
don't go by any OBD2 setting lol
Our car runs cruise anywhere between 190 to 200 and 210-220 on idle
IAT on my m90 is around 136 idle or 110-120 cruising (100 on a good day)
I also have the roush 9 bar, fluidyne 3 pass heat exchanger, svt upgraded ex-pump.
05 GT , stock thermostat
I also have my low speed fan to kick in at 195 and high speed at 210
Just curious if the OP has a vacuum boost gauge or just a boost gauge if any gauge at all to monitor vacuum/boost conditions. A vac/boost gauge allows you to see a whole lot more that is going on in the engine. Plus it is a nice thing to have if you start having problems and know the normal vacuum the car makes at idle. Makes chasing down vacuum leaks or eliminating vacuum as a culprit if an engine issue arises.
don't go by any OBD2 setting lol
Our car runs cruise anywhere between 190 to 200 and 210-220 on idle
IAT on my m90 is around 136 idle or 110-120 cruising (100 on a good day)
I also have the roush 9 bar, fluidyne 3 pass heat exchanger, svt upgraded ex-pump.
05 GT , stock thermostat
I also have my low speed fan to kick in at 195 and high speed at 210
How did you manage to get 23 psi ? The oem Hammer was like 14.5 psi. Did you use a smaller blower pulley / and or a bigger diam crank pulley ? Did you retain the oem airbox, or go to a cone style cai? Did you retain the oem twin 60mm tb... or use the bigger FRPP twin 65.... or VMP twin 67 ? That 2010 hammer was a beast. Sleeper car. Most made aprx 518-525 rwhp... in oem roush format.
I have the Roush vent pod boost gauge.
Crank pulley setup is a real oddball, and I don't believe there is any alternative to the stock lower pulley. In fact, it's no longer even available (which is scary) even though the car is only a 2010. So the boost was upped by installing smaller Metco upper quick-change pulley. I bought the car last year and immediately had it tuned for an 'emission' tune and it peaked the dyno's boost readout at 25.6psi. So I went one size larger on the pulley to lower it a tad.
Stock airbox is gone. JLT CAI in place (see pic below). Throttle body is the FRPP single-plate Super Cobra Jet, rated for 1,797cfm.
Real fun car. Total sleeper. Thanks
When the dash light dimmer is tweaked, it also tweaks the boost gauge.
...... Are you saying the oem bone stock single crank pulley, like I have on my 2010, is no longer available ? I though roush had discontinued the dual fead setup..and only their single fead was available for the 2.3 TVS. .
If you have the "Spider" assembly pulley shown in my pic below, then pray you never need to buy a new one. I bought my 'Hammer' last year and the Spider assembly was bad (odd with only 19k miles). Getting it off the car was a horror show. I called Roush for tech tips and they helped me through the removal. There were some stripped threads that caused a lot of aggravation. I originally thought I could repair the assembly, but no joy.
So I called Roush again and asked to order a new one. I was prepared for a shock as I figured it would be EXPENSIVE. However, I was totally blown away when the Roush rep hesitated and then said "we don't have any more of those", so I said 'order me one please', and Roush rep said "they are no longer in stock anywhere and they are no longer being produced". Ugh, at that point I was up the creek without a paddle. The guy was nice, but he had no real solution for my dilemma. I emailed him some pics of the part and asked if he knew anyone who could repair it.
And then I get an unexpected call back from the Roush guy, and he asks for my address. He says he's gonna send me something and surprise me. So I give him my address and he sends me the Spider Assembly shown in the pic below. Yes, it was a used one, but it saved my bacon. And get this, they DIDN'T CHARGE ME ONE CENT! I was (and remain) incredibly impressed with Roush service. Those guys are awesome. I sent them some thank you gifts.
Sorry for long post and hijacking thread a bit, but it is all Roush related, so I thought you guys might be interested.
Per Vorshlag racing, you are supposed to remove all 4 x center caps, when on a road course. If you don't they will melt, sorta like a salvador dali painting. (some of his paintings looked like the object was made from wax, then heated with a blow torch).
I always do remove them now, once was enough.... Amazing how many cars I see at the track with them and they don't loose em', now I always tell guys to take em' out...
You've done more to your car than I care too, my driving ability does not call for that yet.... Only other suspension/driveline mods I have are Kenny Brown Matrix Brace and Jacking rails.
Here's a video of me at BIR last fall....
Update on cooling: removed the Mishimoto Trans cooler I had and replaced with B&M racing 20,500 btu, along with the factory cooler. We were also able to get the 2 plastic shrouds on each side of the radiator cut to fit "partially" back in. Installed Roush 7 Bar upper grille. Have not had a chance to really test it but drove it just a bit today, 75 and humid here today, trans temp did not go over 150, engine temp was still up at about 200. Road America in a few weeks will be the true test if it works....