ABS Scan / pump actuator tool

[2008 V6]

Does anyone have a recommendation for a ABS scanning tool with the ability to cycle the ABS pump for system purging / bleeding. Any and all advise will be welcome.
2008 SN-197

I'm posting this in 3 sections for wider coverage

 

[kevinatfms]

the abs hcu should be a bypass version. you dont need to purge the hcu to flush the full system out...
if you want to test the system out a ford IDS/VMM is one of the best on the market for diagnostics but since its a yearly subscription and ford OEM diagnostics its extremely expensive.
if you search ebay for some of the old PDS/WDS software bundles you can find dealers selling them for quite cheap and they still do most of the functions up to model year 07-08. i still have my PDS software which i use for advanced diag on my 05 explorer and 05 mustang. only issues are that they dont support updates any longer.

 

[kevinatfms]

example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GENUINE..._Automotive_Tools&hash=item35be0a94fb&vxp=mtr


one thing to watch out for is if the "red brick" goes bad your going to shell out $$$$ for a new one.

 

[2008 V6]

Thanks for responding Kevenatfms - but I need advise to - Here we go -

2008 SN197 4.0 - V6 with ABS & TCS
New / rebuilt 8.8 W / Torsen, Axles shimmed to float .050 No caliper bind, welded axles straight - no run out.
New rear calipers & pads.
New hoses
Flushed master cylinder & entire system with ATE Blue / Dot 4 using a Motive Power bleeder @ 8 PSI max.

Here is my problem - Right rear caliper is locking up - Hit the caliper with a rubber mallet & it disengages.
Checked banjo bolt length - Good
Disconnected brake cable - Good
Scanned ABS - Good / no codes
Replaced brake caliper & pads - Same problem
Checked for codes - No Codes
Checked tooth count on Axle ABS 50 splines - same for both axles - Good -
Visually inspected all lines Good
Brake doesn’t lock until brake pedal is depressed.
Only right rear caliper.

“Caliper locks up with TCS disengaged”

Most testing done on a lift. I tried to drive it to see if the caliper would disengage when driving and no go.

I need to get this car mobile. I’ve got 2 long / late evenings of head pounding & don’t have any answers.
Any and all advise will be welcome. I really don’t want to take it to the dealer because of other issues that need to be addressed after this is figured out but need to get the car moble before I can adrees those issues.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Throw a brake pressure guage on that corner to see if that circuit is holding pressure or not. If no, then it's mechanical in the caliper or mount.

 

[kevinatfms]

if you replaced the caliper i would bet its the slide pins in the mount. but as dave said above you can throw a break pressure gauge on it to see if its releasing or if the HCU is holding pressure.

remove the caliper bracket, check your pins for dragging/sticking through the entire travel. if needed take off a few thousandths and polish. relube then insert to see if binding goes away. it should move freely with zero bind. i have seen a few where if you buy reman calipers they have crap hardware replacements which are the "throw aways" of factory line parts. cheap parts=binding.

 

[2008 V6]

Thanks Dave -
Thanks Kevin - Will check tonight.
Was a man down, so I worked very late yesterday & was too tired to work on car.

 

[TheKurgan]

Probably not it but worth checking. I do it everytime I swap my brakes out for the track...make sure the caliper piston groove is lined up with the center of the brake pad clip.

First time I swapped pads, I didn't realize this needed to be done, but after I pulled them off, the wear pattern was way off. I would imagine it could cause a caliper to bind.

 

[2008 V6]

Checked pressure - Good
Checked guide pins - Good
Piston adjustment correct on install - Good

I disassembled the caliper - I’ll never do one of these calipers again & guess what - Banjo bolt dragging.

When I had new SS brake lines made, I measured one line’s banjo fitting thickness thinking both were the same. (NO) - .0225” difference in thickness. 50% chance & I grabbed the wrong one. This combined with the new copper washers (Which were thinner than the ones I measured .027” x 2) made my measurements .0765” OFF - enough to cause the banjo bolts, I specifically shortened to the size I checked twice before install, to be too long. The .0225” was just enough to cause the right piston to drag. 3 late nights to figure this out. I guess I need to learn how to read again.

Thanks to all for your help & advise.
Now on to other dilemmas that need to be diagnosed