AC Compressor Dead?

scramblr

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Why do ACs always take a shit during the summer? LOL

I don't know anything about compressors. Is this one dead? Sure made a mess.


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msvela448

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Can't really tell from a picture. You'll probably have to take it to a shop to have a vacuum put on the system to see if it holds (no bad seals) . Once the system is discharged they can also pull out the orifice tube to see if it is all clogged with metal shavings from your compressor.

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scramblr

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What's that seal in the front that blew grease everywhere? The compressor is not seized. The system did start blowing cool (not cold) air again after it happened.

Could I replace the compressor and receiver drier myself and then take it in to shop to check for leaks, vacuum the system and charge it?
 

msvela448

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Yes you can replace the compressor yourself... The only hard part is discharging the system. If you don't have the machine to discharge it and collect the old refrigerant, then it will spray stuff everywhere and I think it's some kind of environmental violation to release that refrigerant to the air, and I'm sure it's not good for your lungs.

Once you get the components replaced take it to a shop and have it vacuumed to remove any moisture and then recharged. When you replace the compressor, be sure to do the orifice tube, and you should consider doing the condenser and accumulator at the same time... You don't want metal chunks from those old components to get into the new ones.

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bambam 06

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Sorry for not staying on the subj, but can anybody tell me where the AC drain line is located on a 2006 Mustang gt. Pictures would be great! TIA.
 

pass1over

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When you replace the compressor, be sure to do the orifice tube, and you should consider doing the condenser and accumulator at the same time... You don't want metal chunks from those old components to get into the new ones.

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no orifice tube in these systems, but it does have an expansion valve, you should change that as well, along with the condenser and the accumulator. It's in the middle of the firewall, nestled in the insulation. Also get a couple cans of AC flush from the auto parts store. Spray them through the AC hoses in the reverse direction of coolant flow. Blow it out with copious amount of compressed air, you'll be able to tell when it's gone.

I did this job almost a year ago on my '12, it wasn't that bad of a job.
 

Derf08

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Is it possible that it's only the clutch hub that needs to be replaced?

https://tinyurl.com/Clutch-Hub
It's possible but I would order it from here vs Amazon.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...ioning,a/c+compressor+clutch+components,13288

I would recommend this Part number that is the complete Clutch and bearing. It's not much more and would avoid a rework. YB3116

Once the clutch is off you can inspect the front seal of the compressor to see if it's leaking. If it is, I would replace the Compressor and clutch together.
 

scramblr

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I have an 06, so the part numbers are a bit different. I think I need to take the hub/pulley/clutch apart first to see what happened. Could be the clutch broke as well and if so, I'd just get the entire assembly, i.e., CL0521C. I have an 8 rib pulley, so that's the only part I would not need. Hopefully the compressor is fine then I don't have to deal with that.


https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2006,mustang,4.6l+v8,1432173,heat+&+air+conditioning

or

https://www.autozone.com/cooling-he...p/compressor-works-a-c-clutch-47881/79233_0_0
 

msvela448

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no orifice tube in these systems, but it does have an expansion valve, you should change that as well, along with the condenser and the accumulator. It's in the middle of the firewall, nestled in the insulation. Also get a couple cans of AC flush from the auto parts store. Spray them through the AC hoses in the reverse direction of coolant flow. Blow it out with copious amount of compressed air, you'll be able to tell when it's gone.

I did this job almost a year ago on my '12, it wasn't that bad of a job.
In the OP's 2006 Mustang... #3 in the diagram is where the orifice tube is located. You have to disconnect the coupling, item #2.

Motorcraft Part # YG343
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e31d4457c3bfbcc4f65d035368252f0e.jpg


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JEWC_Motorsports

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Do the work yourself. I have gauges and a vacuum pump if you want to borrow them or i can sweat my ass off and help you lol.
 

JC SSP

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Yeah M2... I thought Ford had liquid line with integral orifice tube. Only thought GM had the replacement one...
 

scramblr

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Do the work yourself. I have gauges and a vacuum pump if you want to borrow them or i can sweat my ass off and help you lol.

Yeah, you know I'm not going to let anyone touch this car. I was looking around to rent, but this will work if needed. I wouldn't ask anyone to work in this oven. If needed I'll reach out to borrow them. Much appreciated as always.

And thanks to the rest of you as well...good information to have.


Took the hub and pulley off and the pulley bearing is shot. Probably affected the hub which blew one of the deteriorated top seals. The coil seems intact.

Ordered a new bearing for $25 and a new hub for $30, both will be here tomorrow. We'll see how this works. Need to pull the old bearing out and swap out the new one. Other option would be a new 8 rib pulley which is $86.
 

scramblr

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Will these 6 divets keep me from removing this bearing? I've whacked it a few times and hasn't budged.
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msvela448

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I would replace the compressor assembly and not mess with piecing it together. It if you want to just try replacing the pulley... Just buy the new Motorcraft pulley with the bearing pre-installed. They also sell the pulley and clutch plate combo. Messing around with removing the bearing is a hassle and while you might get it out... Getting it back in and secured with the tangs is another story.

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pass1over

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I second this, especially if that's the original compressor. A new compressor for your car is like $120-165 on rockauto
 

scramblr

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Agreed. I bought a new pulley yesterday. It will be here Thursday. I'm running an 8 rib set up so pieced the clutch plate and pulley together. The coil seems fine. Guess we'll see how it runs. May have to change out the compressor, hopefully not.
 

JC SSP

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In my experience, 90% of the time this will require a new/rebuilt compressor but try it out and see if it will work.

FYI Replacing with quality parts (e.g., Motorcraft) is essential as is the proper evacuate and recharge. Just my .02 cents.
 

pass1over

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Denso and Four Seasons brand compressors are highly rated and recommended. I've used them in the past, still have the vehicle years later and it runs ice cold
 

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