Alignment spec recommendation?

[Roadracer350]

What about cutting the upper portition of the shock tower out and rewelding so you can get to the adjustments? Not a lot just the portition that sticks up and then maybe .250" around. Re weld by TIG and then add a strut tower brace?

 

[Vorshlag-Fair]

I didn't know that was your guys $20XX car. I read GRM and remember that car. Some day I would like to build a $20XX Challenge Car. I would also love to do a LeMons/Crapcan race too!

Yea... if you think about it, send me a PM before you build either. I can point out ... some things that matter and some that don't.

What about cutting the upper portition of the shock tower out and rewelding so you can get to the adjustments? Not a lot just the portition that sticks up and then maybe .250" around. Re weld by TIG and then add a strut tower brace?

Strut tower mods are pretty extreme and banned in many racing classes. But they are allowed in some classes, to either add negative camber or positive caster adjustment travel, or... to change the bump travel, strength of the tower, mounting methods, etc. Depends on where you race. For the S197, the Boss302S comes with a modified strut tower from the factory.

You can see how far they cut the strut tower opening. But it ain't for more caster.... they do it ALL for more negative camber. Like I keep saying...

The MultiMatic (??) camber/caster plates used on the 302-S/R (see above) has an extreme amount of inboard adjustment built in, and only works on an S197 chassis with the strut tower opening cut up (a lot). But it is all for adding more negative camber, NOT extra positive caster.

Cheers,

 

[Roadracer350]

Yea... if you think about it, send me a PM before you build either. I can point out ... some things that matter and some that don't.



Strut tower mods are pretty extreme and banned in many racing classes. But they are allowed in some classes, to either add negative camber or positive caster adjustment travel, or... to change the bump travel, strength of the tower, mounting methods, etc. Depends on where you race. For the S197, the Boss302S comes with a modified strut tower from the factory.

You can see how far they cut the strut tower opening. But it ain't for more caster.... they do it ALL for more negative camber. Like I keep saying...

The MultiMatic (??) camber/caster plates used on the 302-S/R (see above) has an extreme amount of inboard adjustment built in, and only works on an S197 chassis with the strut tower opening cut up (a lot). But it is all for adding more negative camber, NOT extra positive caster.

Cheers,

What im talking of doing is like you see in the first pic but where the notch is on the flat part of the tower, continue that cut all the way around the little "bubble" portion that sticks up and remove it all together. Then Tig up the seams

 

[steveespo]

What part number is that master cylinder reservoir? seems much bigger than stock one.
Steve

 

[Vorshlag-Fair]

What part number is that master cylinder reservoir? seems much bigger than stock one.
Steve

The 302-S has a different brake booster and MC. Both are hideously expensive and have the words "PROTOTYPE" all over them. We looked up the part numbers and I think the booster was like $4000... so yea, we blew off that idea.

And like many camber plates made for the S197, changing camber on these plates above was a total PITA (you have to drop the plate down to access the adjustment bolts). And has only 2 bolts keeping it in place. But you can get like -5 deg of camber on these, if you ever wanted that much.

The VM plates our 2011 GT, with "un-cut" strut towers, can go to -3.8 deg camber, and can be adjusted in seconds, in case you wondered. We are running it right now at -3.4° and seeing excellent tire wear on track, with the 18x12" front wheels and 315mm Hoosiers. As always, your maximum camber number can be affected by the strut mounting holes and the front ride height you choose.

What im talking of doing is like you see in the first pic but where the notch is on the flat part of the tower, continue that cut all the way around the little "bubble" portion that sticks up and remove it all together. Then Tig up the seams

Hmm, well, that could weaken the strut tower. That raised, cold formed "bubble" adds stiffness, as well as another layer of sheet metal. Virtually ALL of the front suspension loads travel through the strut tower, and the numbers can be pretty daunting. I cannot count how many strut towers I've seen cracked (on other chassis, not the S197), so I am wary about removing metal on any OEM strut towers without adding strength back somewhere else. You should see what they do strut towers to rally cars... they add plate steel and roll cage tubing. Lots and lots of steel.

 

[ArizonaGT]

You won't need that booster unless you are going to be making the jump to the Brembo Pro Kit brakes anyways; even with those installed, I've been told you can get away a lot cheaper and still have most of the performance by "simply" installing an 07-09 GT500 Master Cyl, booster, and reservoir.

 

[leviathon]

I have actually done this to my car, I just used a cutoff wheel and the metal is actually thick enough to where welding isnt needed. Its not 2 pieces sandwiched together its just really solid. Also it does not compromise any structural integrity of the towers and allows a strut brace. Ill try and get some pics tomorrow

What about cutting the upper portition of the shock tower out and rewelding so you can get to the adjustments? Not a lot just the portition that sticks up and then maybe .250" around. Re weld by TIG and then add a strut tower brace?

 

[mitch]

Just installed:
Koni Yellows
HR Race Springs
MM CC Plates
MM PH Bar
MM 36 mm Front sway bar
Steeda Adj. Sway bar end links

Go the car aligned today.
Not my DD, just weekend toy and HPDE car.
Pretty much right where I wanted it.



Apex Alignment in Miami.
Wall of Shame.. lol

 

[mrgtx]

So...interesting discussion here! Sadly my budget didn't all for camber plates.

Otherwise, my Eibach pro (1"/1.5" drop) springs and Bilsteins are in, alignment happening whenever the roads are salt-free enough to drive.

Can anyone suggest some alignment specs that would be attainable with GT500 mounts? As suggested, mounts installed the the "arrows" pointing towards the engine...which supposedly helps.

I'm Looking for better overall performance of course but preferably without eating my RE-11s too quickly. so...a happy medium.

2* of camber, even if that's possible seems like it would erode the inside shoulders pretty quickly for street use...no?

If it matters, I'm running the RTR 9.5" wide wheels with -33 offset.

 

[Mustang259]

mrgtx,
Im considering the same set up as you have, what year is your mustang and if it is an 11-14, did the gt500 mounts work without any install problems?
I would like to know the same alignment specs you are asking about.

 

[csamsh]

A happy medium will likely not work right anywhere. Kind of like how "all season" tires are really "no season" tires.

If it's your daily driver, I'd just put good street numbers on it. If it's not a DD, go for max camber. Just my opinion.

 

[mrgtx]

mrgtx,
Im considering the same set up as you have, what year is your mustang and if it is an 11-14, did the gt500 mounts work without any install problems?
I would like to know the same alignment specs you are asking about.

GT500 mounts fit with no problems...just be sure your struts are compatible. They do limit alignment options so if you can swing the cost of good camber plates, it's worth doing.

This may be obvious but you''ll need an adjustable panhard bar to re-center the rear axle.

My quick test drive showed essentially no loss of ride quality but a much more responsive system. The ride height looks "correct." Clearly lowered but certainly not slammed. So far, so good. I can't wait to wring it out.

A happy medium will likely not work right anywhere. Kind of like how "all season" tires are really "no season" tires.

If it's your daily driver, I'd just put good street numbers on it. If it's not a DD, go for max camber. Just my opinion.

Thanks. I hear you with this advice...so what are "good" street numbers? I assume they're something other than stock...

 

[Lucky_13]

-2 / -2.5 camber, 0 toe, stock caster. i run -2.5 as my compromise setting and run 5-7 hpdes a year. My Vorshlag plates are maxed out because my front ride height is not very low (about 1.25 lower than stock)

 

[B2B]

I think my Steeda Sport springs (~1" drop) put me right at -1.2 degree negative camber. Flipping the GT500 mount will probably put you at -0.7 degree.

1.2 - 1.5 degree negative camber won't give you any abnormal wear as long as you have zero or slight (1/16) toe in.

Flipping the GT500 mounts will take away negative camber, which is probably not what you wants to do.

 

[Mustang259]

HUH? I thought flipping the gt500 mounts gives you more negative camber which is what you want on a lowered car? Now Im really confused, which is it? also, per Steedas website the drop on sports is 1inch front and 1.5 rear?

 

[claudermilk]

I have Vorshlag plates and Steeda Sport springs. Maxed out, I'm getting -2.75 deg. There is still more in the plates, but I'd have to cut the strut tower hole and that changes classes I can run in, so not an option.

 

[B2B]

If you have slotted struts, you can give yourself an extra degree (or two) at the lower strut mount. I can easily get 3.5 degree with the Vorshlag plates this way without cutting the strut tower hole.

I have Vorshlag plates and Steeda Sport springs. Maxed out, I'm getting -2.75 deg. There is still more in the plates, but I'd have to cut the strut tower hole and that changes classes I can run in, so not an option.

 

[claudermilk]

Don't give me ideas!

 

[Lucky_13]

Yeah, the KW V3's I have can tweak camber by +/- 1.5 at the strut. I've got it set as close to 0 as I can at the strut for KPA and wheel clearance, but could get as low as -4 if I maxed the adjusters out at the strut and Vor plates.

 

[csamsh]

Slotted strut camber adjustment is great and all...but the more camber you have at the strut/knuckle, the less inboard wheel clearance you have.