Alternator pulleys; 05-09 vs 2010 + Bullitt

[skwerl]

Guys, I need some help. Trying to swap over to an 8 rib pulley setup and I'm finding very little info on removing the alternator pulley. It also seems like everything I find doesn't apply to my alternator. So I have two questions:
1- How do I remove this pulley?
2- Will the replacement pulley in the picture work, or do I need to contact the seller and swap it out?

 

[HG6283]

Brian,
When my E-Force was installed at Brenspeed, they had a special tool to remove the stock alternator pulley.
I saw on another forum that they might have them for sale.

 

[skwerl]

Further communication with the pulley seller has led me to believe that this is the tool I need to remove the pulley:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-57650-Alternator-Decoupler-Tool/dp/B00AGWEUKI

Unfortunately the replacement pulley is not clutched so I'm not sure how much that will negatively affect my alternator life. He said his 'Ford engineer buddy' claimed it was still a direct replacement, so I'll forge ahead. Two different auto parts stores did not have the correct puller tool (normally available with their free tool rental programs) so I'll check around further tomorrow.

What I would really like is to find an 8 rib clutched pulley that is slightly larger diameter. With my 10% overdrive crank pulley and 7K redline I'm afraid of premature failure due to overspinning it. Going to a direct drive pulley with no clutch seems like a step backward and I do not have a good feeling about it.

 

[HG6283]

I don't know for sure if this is true, but I had read that the clutch-type pulley was used to compensate for alternator overrun on engine decel.
The concern was excessive wear of the belt.

 

[skwerl]

That makes sense.

Tried to rig something up but I'm not having any luck. Still wish I had some more definitive info on the differences/similarities between the 05-09 alternator and the 2010/Bullitt alternator.

I'm going to go search for a GT500 alternator pulley and see if I can find an 8 rib clutched pulley.

 

[pibirdman]

If you have a Volkswagen dealer near you, they can remove it. I had this problem when I had to replace my alternator and had lost the special tool that came with my EForce kit. The VWs use this splined nut as our Mustangs do. No auto parts stores carry it. I ordered one from Amazon in case this happens again.

 

[skwerl]

Thanks for bumping this thread, I forgot to update it. I ordered the Lisle tool from Amazon and I also ordered a custom clutched 8 rib pulley from Alex Ortner (an associate of Jason, gmitch, of Department of Boost). I found a few reports of the regular 8 rib pulleys shredding belts due to the alternator not being able to slow down quick enough on deceleration. There's a reason why Ford went through all the trouble of putting a clutched pulley on these alternators and I'm not going to just ignore that.

I am relatively sure that both the 05-09 and 2010 + Bullitt alternators all use the same pulley but I cannot confirm that definitively. I am confident, however, that Alex will send me the correct pulley.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

I don't know for sure if this is true, but I had read that the clutch-type pulley was used to compensate for alternator overrun on engine decel.
The concern was excessive wear of the belt.

That's correct.

My boss at Remy told me it was to compensate for the large drop in engine RPMs going from 1st to 2nd.

Skwerl, if you need some more info on this, I may be able to get it. Just let me know specifically what you need.

 

[blownGTvert]

I've had the Kenne Bell and Vortech/Paxton 8 rib kits and neither came with a clutched alternator pulley. I never had an issue using the non clutched pulley either. However, if the 8 rib clutched pulley is readily available and inexpensive probably the best route.

 

[HG6283]

It may have something to do with the amount of belt wrap. The Edelbrock-supplied pulley does not contain a clutch, but the belt wraps around the pulley at least half way around.

 

[tmcolegr]

http://www.gatesprograms.com/adp

 

[blownGTvert]

http://www.gatesprograms.com/adp

The Ford offerings from Gates in your link are 6 rib replacements. Do you have a Gates part number for an 8 rib clutch pulley that works?

 

[tmcolegr]

The Ford offerings from Gates in your link are 6 rib replacements. Do you have a Gates part number for an 8 rib clutch pulley that works?

no

just meant to provide general information about decoupler pulleys

 

[drive_55_not]

The Ford offerings from Gates in your link are 6 rib replacements. Do you have a Gates part number for an 8 rib clutch pulley that works?

The Motorcraft alternator's use a pulley with M16-1.5mm thread, Dodge uses the same alternators and there's several clutched pulleys that'll fit the Motorcraft alternator, depends on if you want stock size, over or under drive.

MOPAR 05183490AA is a stock size pulley, you'll need a spacer to clearance the pulley from the alternator and get the belts aligned

The DENSO uses a M14-1.5mm pulley, Depending on your setup,, It's not so easy to find one that'll work .. Land Rover Europe uses an 8 rib pulley DENSO # 330281 is the direct fit for the Mustang.

I have the DENSO alt and cobbled an 8 rib under drive pulley together by pressing the m14-1.5mm clutch out of a 50mm MOPAR pulley I found on a wrecked 5.9L Diesel RAM and pressing it into a 73mm pulley that was originally an M16-1.5mm clutch.

This link shows pretty much all available clutch pulleys from IKA,

http://www.ika-germany.de/Downloads.aspx

Open the pdf named
Alternator pulleys 2012/2013



.

 

[skwerl]

Wow, awesome info. I suspect the Denso 330281 is the one I'm getting from Alex, he said he had a contact in Europe from whom he got them. I searched Google and Amazon and came up with nothing except two European wholesale places that didn't even list a price for them.

 

[tomkay]

I have an 8-rib clutch pulley I got from Alex for my 2008 with a motorcraft alternator and it's been working fine for about 2 years now.

 

[drive_55_not]

Wow, awesome info. I suspect the Denso 330281 is the one I'm getting from Alex, he said he had a contact in Europe from whom he got them. I searched Google and Amazon and came up with nothing except two European wholesale places that didn't even list a price for them.

Yeah, that DENSO pulley is difficult to source, I found an alternator on feebay Europe for 50 Euro's but they wanted 100 to ship it, I needed an under drive pulley anyways as my alternator would be spinning north of 25000 rpms when I track the car with a 60mm pulley and a 10% OD crank.


.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

You have to be careful about belt offset with alternator pulleys, especially clutch pulleys.

There's a bit of forward to rear play on clutch pulleys that solid pulleys don't have, so if the belt offset is incorrect, it will cause the pulley to run against one side, meaning the clutch will wear out faster, as well as making your belt squeal or rip apart.

Additionally, you'll want to make sure your fan offset is correct as well. Also the diameter over balls for the pulley. Otherwise you'll over or under drive your alternator, which is no bueno.

Ask me how I know lol.

 

[skwerl]

What fan are you talking about? Mine seems to be missing.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

What fan are you talking about? Mine seems to be missing.

"Fan offset" is a legacy term, it's from back in the days when external fans were used on alternators.

Now a days they're usually inside the frame. So the term is outdated. Frame offset would be a better term for an internal fan alternator.

That said, fan offset is the front to back distance of the outermost ring to the innermost ring. Basically the offset from your datum A that the furthest back portion of the ribbed area sits on.

If that makes sense. I'm not great explaining things without diagrams. I could maybe draw one up if this didn't cover it.