Another good day at the eighth!!

Discussion in 'Drag Racing Tech Discussion & Timeslips' started by skaarlaj, May 29, 2017.

  1. skaarlaj

    skaarlaj Probie Former Pink Bus Rider

    Posts:
    740
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2015
    The car ran good this past Saturday with runs ranging from [email protected] to [email protected] , no need to mention the few runs I had in the mid-high sevens because of spin issues, lol. The DA started off at a pretty good 7400' at around 11AM, but didn't pay attention for the rest of the day until around 3.

    For those times and speeds, do you think my 60' times of my 4 cleanest runs of 1.624-1.653 are pretty decent, or should I start looking at suspension. I'd hate to spend the time and money to have a clunky erector set under my car and not at least be well into the 1.5 range, maybe it's possible? It has had a few dead hook runs with nothing for suspension aside from a poly Steeda bushing in the rear housing for the upper control arm, and front sway bar removed.

    I'm sort of thinking that most, if not all of my runs could be like my best runs currently with some suspension goodies, but I don't know if you'd improve on a dead hook run with suspension goodies unless there was traction issues prior. Any thoughts suggestions are very welcome.

    Hopefully everyone had a good safe memorial day!!
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2017
  2. RocketcarX

    RocketcarX 95% of my weight is fuel

    Posts:
    1,602
    Likes Received:
    7
    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2011
    Location:
    Burton Texas
    You will absolutely benefit from addressing the suspension, it is the only way to reduce your 60' consistently, that along with perhaps a gear change.
    HOW much RPM are you launching at and "dead hooking"?
     
  3. skaarlaj

    skaarlaj Probie Former Pink Bus Rider

    Posts:
    740
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2015
    Not as high as possible on a foot brake, maybe 3K. I just go by ear. I'm sure if I really tried to get it up above 4K before trading feet it'll probably spin pretty bad and get a 1.7-1.8 60' the way it sits.
     
  4. RocketcarX

    RocketcarX 95% of my weight is fuel

    Posts:
    1,602
    Likes Received:
    7
    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2011
    Location:
    Burton Texas
    How can you know without trying?
    The suspension is why it would spin if it did, spring and shocks play a huge roll. You need to transfer to hook, loosing the front sway bar let my car come up a lot more, but even that was after a spring change and the right shocks in the car.
     
  5. RocketcarX

    RocketcarX 95% of my weight is fuel

    Posts:
    1,602
    Likes Received:
    7
    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2011
    Location:
    Burton Texas
    Dead hooking means a slow 60', best traction/acceleration comes with slippage, they say something like 25%.
     
  6. skaarlaj

    skaarlaj Probie Former Pink Bus Rider

    Posts:
    740
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2015
    I did try stalling up higher a few times and it did spin a little and ended up with 1.7x 60's. The car's actually transferring weight pretty well. I also have the front sway bar removed.
     
  7. Sactown

    Sactown Sactown

    Posts:
    5,109
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2008
    Location:
    Sacramento, CA
    nice times, just keep chipping away at that 60
     
  8. RocketcarX

    RocketcarX 95% of my weight is fuel

    Posts:
    1,602
    Likes Received:
    7
    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2011
    Location:
    Burton Texas
    That would in my mind at least confirm the suspension is the next logical step. Lower control arm relocation brackets and better rear shocks would be a good start. Adjusting the pinion angle could add some bite too.
    In the front, the adjustable Strange front struts were helpful also to my front end coming up, but I have to say the single biggest change in transfer for me happened with the BMR drag springs.
     
  9. skaarlaj

    skaarlaj Probie Former Pink Bus Rider

    Posts:
    740
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2015
    Thank you sir.

    Thanks for the advice. So the relocation brackets will help even if I stay with the stock LCA's? I'm not against spending a little money for the LCA's just don't want them if they don't do much. Also the rear of my car has always sat a little higher than the front, and wouldn't mind a change there, so I might have to check out those springs.
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2017
  10. BMR Tech

    BMR Tech Traction Vendor

    Posts:
    4,861
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2009
    Location:
    Tampa, FL
    Love hearing that!

    If you guys ever need any assistance with the set-up etc dont hesitate to give me a call to discuss.

    Keep up the great work!
     
  11. skaarlaj

    skaarlaj Probie Former Pink Bus Rider

    Posts:
    740
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2015
    Would adjustable shocks, rear drag springs, and LCA relocation brackets be a good place to start? Would I see gains? I really don't want the front of my car any lower than it already is, and it raises pretty nicely the way it sits, so I'd like to stick with the stock front springs if possible. So far just running a BMR radiator support / sway bar delete, Steeda housing poly bushings for the factory UCA.
     
  12. BMR Tech

    BMR Tech Traction Vendor

    Posts:
    4,861
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2009
    Location:
    Tampa, FL
    With factory springs - this is the combo you want.

    BMR Upper Control Arm Mount, lowest position.

    Viking Double Adjustable Shocks.

    From there we can dial it in. ;)
     
  13. BMR Tech

    BMR Tech Traction Vendor

    Posts:
    4,861
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2009
    Location:
    Tampa, FL
    You "could" do the BMR SP012 rear srpings....with the CAB005 LCA Brackets and of course the Viking B226 shocks to compliment as well.

    But, I would try the first combo I mentioned above first.
     
  14. skaarlaj

    skaarlaj Probie Former Pink Bus Rider

    Posts:
    740
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2015
    Thank you sir, You'll probably see an order from me when / if I get the blessing to spend a little, lol
     
  15. 46addict

    46addict 13726548

    Posts:
    1,301
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2016
    Location:
    Lawrenceville, GA
    Is -1.5 to -2 still the rule of thumb for pinion angle on a car with aftermarket upper & lower control arms?
     
  16. skaarlaj

    skaarlaj Probie Former Pink Bus Rider

    Posts:
    740
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2015
    I think it depends more on what kind of bushings you have. the more deflection / softer the bushing should require more angle so that it's near zero under full load and not binding the U-joint while under extreme loads.
     
  17. RocketcarX

    RocketcarX 95% of my weight is fuel

    Posts:
    1,602
    Likes Received:
    7
    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2011
    Location:
    Burton Texas
    I think a stick car is closer to -4. It's combo dependent. I'm not sure aftermarket arms affect it as much as relocation brackets do, as mentioned bushing choice factors in too. For instance the diff bushing for the upper arm, no matter what upper control arm you run, as long as that stock rubber bushing is in the top of the diff its going to deflect.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2017
  18. skaarlaj

    skaarlaj Probie Former Pink Bus Rider

    Posts:
    740
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2015
    Yeah, a stick car dumping the clutch with alot of traction will surely deflect any sort of bushings more than an auto imo.
     

Share This Page