any coyote stang guys with PB blower running a 245mm stall?

skaarlaj

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Hey all, I first wanted to see how good an auto Coyote stang would run with nothing more than a few key modifications. I got the loosest "non custom" stall I could think of "5C" thinking if I went forced induction later, it would work just fine with a centrifugal blower with the worst case scenario being re-stalling the 5C down to a 3, or 4c if it proved to be too loose with the added power of that sort of blower.

I'm starting to like the idea of either the Ford Racing 2.3 liter whipple, or the very popular VMP TVS, and the guy from Circle-D said a 258mm stall would be the better choice over my existing 245 that I'm using currently. I do trust what they tell me would be optimal, but how terrible would my 245mm 5C adjusted down to a 1, or 2C be with a PD blower???

I have read good things about either the Paxton, or Vortech kits, but the huge ratio jump in the 6R80 from 1st to 2nd has me wondering how bad the car would fall on it's face at wot on the 1-2 upshift. I am now a believer in the 6R80 now that I have a good converter, but the rpm drop on the 1-2 shift has me thinking PD blower for the best acceleration, I may be wrong??

I've seen the centrifugals work well on MT 82 coyote stangs, but their ratios are a lot tighter than the 6R80's, with very small rpm drops between the first four gears. I have yet to see a centrifugal auto coyote in action at the track I go to, so I may be worrying about nothing? However, I already own a procharger in a truck that has a 4r70, and a stock stall, "wrong combination" I know but none the less, when that thing starts singing the 12# tune at redline, then shifts into 2nd, it's a dog again at a measly 5-6 pounds and acceleration is horrible for a few seconds until the speed/rpm's come back up near red-line.

Bottom line is I don't want to spend the money on another 1200$ stall, but re-stalling my current converter would be fine, so does that mean no VMP, or Twin screw for me, or would a re-stall on my existing 245mm be "ok" with the whipple or VMP, with the added low end grunt of that style of blower, or should I really look at simply going with a Paxton/Vortech, and possibly not even re-stall what I already have, until possibly proven to be too loose, which I doubt it would be.

Thoughts.....
 

bunits19714

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most coyote mustangs will et quicker with a pro charger than a Paxton with out a waste gate at the same boost levels- I believe it has to do with the ratio of the blower. So don't rule out the PC- easier install, better fit and finish, yes more expensive but not by much when you get a 8 rib from the start. And still less than a new vmp/whipple.
A) re install the stock converter and rock the vmp(better torque curve than the whipple 2.3)
B) leave the 5c and run a centri(you will get tired of driving the 5c and the blower_this from personal experience) or run the 5c and a nice single turbo since you don't have 2k wrapped into headers yet(labor&material) the 5c will be way loose when the boost gets turned up for sure with the turbo- I know your in major elevation- but my car na 60 ft 1.59's in good da at 3715# rw and 60's now 1.40's with the blower at around 3725# rw. so boost dropped almost 2tenths off my 60' most Paxton cars non waste gated at the same boost level don't 60' as well- dropped 1/4 mile et's over 1.4 seconds and picked up 17+mph. on the factory 10psi pulley(4.63") Car is at the tuners now and hoping to drop a solid .10 to .15 in et because of transmission tuning.
 

skaarlaj

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most coyote mustangs will et quicker with a pro charger than a Paxton with out a waste gate at the same boost levels- I believe it has to do with the ratio of the blower. So don't rule out the PC- easier install, better fit and finish, yes more expensive but not by much when you get a 8 rib from the start. And still less than a new vmp/whipple.
A) re install the stock converter and rock the vmp(better torque curve than the whipple 2.3)
B) leave the 5c and run a centri(you will get tired of driving the 5c and the blower_this from personal experience) or run the 5c and a nice single turbo since you don't have 2k wrapped into headers yet(labor&material) the 5c will be way loose when the boost gets turned up for sure with the turbo- I know your in major elevation- but my car na 60 ft 1.59's in good da at 3715# rw and 60's now 1.40's with the blower at around 3725# rw. so boost dropped almost 2tenths off my 60' most Paxton cars non waste gated at the same boost level don't 60' as well- dropped 1/4 mile et's over 1.4 seconds and picked up 17+mph. on the factory 10psi pulley(4.63") Car is at the tuners now and hoping to drop a solid .10 to .15 in et because of transmission tuning.
I have headers now, so no turbo. Are people figuring out a way to get air into their Prochargers from another area than what Procharger provides? I also think the stocker may still be a little tight for the VMP as well. My car wouldn't squeak the tires with the factory converter. My car may be down on power for some reason, but once the revs come up she definitely comes alive. I've owned an 04 Cobra and an 03 Lightning with factory ported eatons pullied to their limit, and although they obviously make low rpm torque, they still need "some" rpm to start getting with the program imo, possibly more rpm's than my stock converter would allow. Plus, I added a stall on the Lightning and it improved ET's on that rig nicely, so I'm guessing the right stall would help these higher revving Coyotes no matter what you do to them?

I wish you lived a little closer to me, I'd love to take a ride in your car to actually experience how it runs with that blower
 
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skaarlaj

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If any of you happen to see a 245MM 5C circle D stall for sale some time this winter from me, It's a good one with very low miles, hahaha!
 

bunits19714

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There is a 2 guys in my area(30 mins from me different directions) that run rousch style blowers and are on the stock converter and are running low 9's @ 150, tvs don't need a converter usually- the tuner just needs to bring the torgue in low- there is a limit on the stock internals- both of these guys are running built bottom ends so it isn't a issue- a converter may help with your elevation this I have no knowledge on, may help with the lil lack of power because of the elev. to get the car moving- both these guys are running 1.2's(high) in the 60' on the stock converter. with 3.55 gears- I am sure the stock converter is showing some slippage via the logs when they are craming all that torgue to it. I was going to go vor/pax for the longest time because I had my converter, full exhaust, and I like the looks of the boss intake I was running, but after doing some research I chose the PC- I am stuck in the 10.00's right now running out of rpm at just passed the 1000' mark because the converter isn't locking up, The car is at the tuners now getting this worked out when I get it back I am expecting low 9.90-mid 9.80's with a da at around 400 or so- my base elev is 580' so a slight -da which we get at night in the fall. And if you do choose the PC if you don't like loud spend the 100 bucks on the helical gears- mine doesn't bother me but I am not trying to be stealthy.
 

skaarlaj

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I appreciate your feed-back on the subject.
 
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