CPRsm
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Saw Weatherman want to throw me out so I thought I'd put something in here so yous guys know this is actually my company name.
lol
I've never put anything in here because most know what I sell, and it's primary my own parts. I've gotten tired honestly over the years of other vendors and "quality" parts that my line is very small from GOOD vendors that actually sell quality parts. I like many of you get screwed by these folks as well. So I have become very selective of what vendors I expose my customers to. This is why I am not interested in carrying line items from every company out there. Not to say if I don't carry it, it's no good. But anything you may buy from us has proven itself w a small failure rate or none. And if it fails you're not hung out to dry.
Seen quite a bit over time w some folks comparing parts and thought I'd put a few things out there so you know what to look for when comparing or when someone says "X" is better.
Billet turbos. There is no real performance gain by switching to a billet turbo if the only change is material. Meaning, many companies take the same wheel they had before and make it out of billet. There is no real advantage here. Billet is denser and heavier and with no other change will be slower spooling. This is good for the diesel and the import crowd running 50+ psi. The same compressor is stronger and will deflect less under high pressures.
Billet now can be thinned out and run more aggressive profiles cast cannot. You can also thin the center where it mounts giving you a slight increase in fin contact to air. It's cheaper to test and make changes than cast as well. So make sure a billet you may be looking at is actually different than it's cast counterpart. Especially if you're running low boost or you're going to be throwing money away. Billets are great when they have a more aggressive profile. There is A LOT of extra power to be made when they are different.
Second is intercoolers. Many will try to compare intercoolers efficiency by saying how their inlets are 5 deg above ambient while driving. Or their core doesn't heat soak because it starts to cool off from the 80 deg gain in inlets right after they let off. There is truth to that but they miss the point. Truth is, gain in temp while under boost is what matters. Cruising temps mean nothing. With a maf under the hood you can see some high inlets, especially siting still. The slower the air moves thru the tube carrying the maf, the higher the inlets will show. The heat put in the tube cannot be carried away as fast as the engine heat puts it in. But even at 200 it's not dangerous. With a good cooler you will see the temps plummet once the hammer goes down and cooled air speeds up in the maf tube. From there, how much it gains is whether the cooler is worth a damn.
Design
There are air to waters which are my favorite and then Air to air coolers. Of those types there are two designs which apply to both. A vertical and horizontal cooler. Keep in mind the longer the tubes in the core, the more it cools. But more pressure drop it will have. A vertical core will have great pressure drop because of shorter cores, but less cooling as a general rule. They are harder to get good inlets due to a lack of space. A horizontal will be the opposite with average tube length 18-24 inches. With it comes good inlets w more pressure drop. To illeviate pressure drop for either setup you can go thicker on the core. Cooling up, drop down.
Thing to really watch out here for is advertising "1000hp Intercooler"s. any core has a rating of cfm. Most any can probably be pushed enough to make 1000hp given enough pressure. But if the inlets raise 100deg to make that 1000hp, that's not a 1000hp core for most anything. A larger engine with low boost will get away with more than an import that needs 3 times the boost for the same power level. The 1000hp core for the import is going to be a bit different in size and fin density. There is always a compromise. Generally more for a blower where boost is lost for better cooling. Where a turbo will spin faster to achieve the same boost in the intake. An even larger cooler to solve cooling AND pressure drop is large in volume, which delays boost threshold. On a car with a t brake or antilag, this may not matter. On a street car w 8psi, they may not want the 4.5 thick core. If you can find flow ratings on cores this will help decide what you need. Experience really helps in this area since all psi is not created equal. Different mass and flow will dictate the cooler as seen in the import to large V8 comparison.
A/W are my favorite by far. Many put off because of the thought of complication. Especially in a street car. But I have been building for them and offering them in kits for years and other are starting to catch on. Water draws heat out 14 times better than air. So the size can be very small. Not like full drag cars you see as big as a person in the passenger seat. A small 4.5-4.5-12 will go A LONG way. I usually run them 6 inches deep for more contact to cool inlets. Even at 6 inchs long, the pressure drop will be a far cry compared to 24 inches, and still cool better than probably anything under 4 inches thick. Then there is ice which is a whole other story. A switch or boost operated switch is how we run them. This keeps the pump from cycling the water and potentially heating it up. Although little heat if any will be put in without boost. The intercooler not IN the engine really helps here lol. This keep us from running a heat exchanger. Where the fittings are small and restrictive. This helps keep inlets down. If you've seen me talk about this you know of my extreme example of a customer in Florida with discharge temps from his turbo over 300deg and sees only 100 or so w ice. On lower boost and 225 discharge he's still at 100 in the Fl heat and humidity, no ice, no exchanger
Anyways that's my attempt at information for you guys. If you guys need boost related parts off the shelf, custom or tech let me know. Feel free to add to this thread also. Lots left to add
lolI've never put anything in here because most know what I sell, and it's primary my own parts. I've gotten tired honestly over the years of other vendors and "quality" parts that my line is very small from GOOD vendors that actually sell quality parts. I like many of you get screwed by these folks as well. So I have become very selective of what vendors I expose my customers to. This is why I am not interested in carrying line items from every company out there. Not to say if I don't carry it, it's no good. But anything you may buy from us has proven itself w a small failure rate or none. And if it fails you're not hung out to dry.
Seen quite a bit over time w some folks comparing parts and thought I'd put a few things out there so you know what to look for when comparing or when someone says "X" is better.
Billet turbos. There is no real performance gain by switching to a billet turbo if the only change is material. Meaning, many companies take the same wheel they had before and make it out of billet. There is no real advantage here. Billet is denser and heavier and with no other change will be slower spooling. This is good for the diesel and the import crowd running 50+ psi. The same compressor is stronger and will deflect less under high pressures.
Billet now can be thinned out and run more aggressive profiles cast cannot. You can also thin the center where it mounts giving you a slight increase in fin contact to air. It's cheaper to test and make changes than cast as well. So make sure a billet you may be looking at is actually different than it's cast counterpart. Especially if you're running low boost or you're going to be throwing money away. Billets are great when they have a more aggressive profile. There is A LOT of extra power to be made when they are different.
Second is intercoolers. Many will try to compare intercoolers efficiency by saying how their inlets are 5 deg above ambient while driving. Or their core doesn't heat soak because it starts to cool off from the 80 deg gain in inlets right after they let off. There is truth to that but they miss the point. Truth is, gain in temp while under boost is what matters. Cruising temps mean nothing. With a maf under the hood you can see some high inlets, especially siting still. The slower the air moves thru the tube carrying the maf, the higher the inlets will show. The heat put in the tube cannot be carried away as fast as the engine heat puts it in. But even at 200 it's not dangerous. With a good cooler you will see the temps plummet once the hammer goes down and cooled air speeds up in the maf tube. From there, how much it gains is whether the cooler is worth a damn.
Design
There are air to waters which are my favorite and then Air to air coolers. Of those types there are two designs which apply to both. A vertical and horizontal cooler. Keep in mind the longer the tubes in the core, the more it cools. But more pressure drop it will have. A vertical core will have great pressure drop because of shorter cores, but less cooling as a general rule. They are harder to get good inlets due to a lack of space. A horizontal will be the opposite with average tube length 18-24 inches. With it comes good inlets w more pressure drop. To illeviate pressure drop for either setup you can go thicker on the core. Cooling up, drop down.
Thing to really watch out here for is advertising "1000hp Intercooler"s. any core has a rating of cfm. Most any can probably be pushed enough to make 1000hp given enough pressure. But if the inlets raise 100deg to make that 1000hp, that's not a 1000hp core for most anything. A larger engine with low boost will get away with more than an import that needs 3 times the boost for the same power level. The 1000hp core for the import is going to be a bit different in size and fin density. There is always a compromise. Generally more for a blower where boost is lost for better cooling. Where a turbo will spin faster to achieve the same boost in the intake. An even larger cooler to solve cooling AND pressure drop is large in volume, which delays boost threshold. On a car with a t brake or antilag, this may not matter. On a street car w 8psi, they may not want the 4.5 thick core. If you can find flow ratings on cores this will help decide what you need. Experience really helps in this area since all psi is not created equal. Different mass and flow will dictate the cooler as seen in the import to large V8 comparison.
A/W are my favorite by far. Many put off because of the thought of complication. Especially in a street car. But I have been building for them and offering them in kits for years and other are starting to catch on. Water draws heat out 14 times better than air. So the size can be very small. Not like full drag cars you see as big as a person in the passenger seat. A small 4.5-4.5-12 will go A LONG way. I usually run them 6 inches deep for more contact to cool inlets. Even at 6 inchs long, the pressure drop will be a far cry compared to 24 inches, and still cool better than probably anything under 4 inches thick. Then there is ice which is a whole other story. A switch or boost operated switch is how we run them. This keeps the pump from cycling the water and potentially heating it up. Although little heat if any will be put in without boost. The intercooler not IN the engine really helps here lol. This keep us from running a heat exchanger. Where the fittings are small and restrictive. This helps keep inlets down. If you've seen me talk about this you know of my extreme example of a customer in Florida with discharge temps from his turbo over 300deg and sees only 100 or so w ice. On lower boost and 225 discharge he's still at 100 in the Fl heat and humidity, no ice, no exchanger
Anyways that's my attempt at information for you guys. If you guys need boost related parts off the shelf, custom or tech let me know. Feel free to add to this thread also. Lots left to add
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And that's why I brought my car to you.
hahaha
