Cerberus build thread

Dreadknought

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Well this has been a long time coming. Car was in an accident back in '14 and has been a lawn ornament until a month or two ago when I decided to finally get off my ass and start the build.

Here's how the car looked prior to the accident.

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So. The goal for this build is a streetable track toy. I'll use this build to teach myself a bunch of new skills as well as increase my automotive knowledge.
I'm breaking the project up into 4 phases to make it easier to keep track of.

Phase 1 is get the car legal and back on the road.
I have already replaced the steering rack and relocated the reservoir, but I need a few lengths of hose and some way to get my Steeda aluminum bumpsteer kit ends off the old steering rack. They are frozen solid and nothing I have tried has worked. I've soaked them in PB Blaster for days, as well as seafoam, various wrenches and a vice, and even a heat gun with no luck. The steel of the inner tie rod shaft just shears off.
I have already replaced the wheels and tires with XXR 527s in 20x10 et40. Shod in Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 in 275/35 all around.
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I've already picked up new GT/CS front bumper, lights, and I got a junkyard fender, but will have to source another since the one I found doesn't line up correctly.
I'll have to teach myself some fiberglass work to repair my Cervini cowl hood.
Prior to the accident, I lost 2nd gear synchros so the trans needs to be replaced. Thankfully, a friend gifted me a working 3650 that was taking up space at his place.

But the big work is gutting the car and "re-engineering" the cooling system. I'm moving the radiator to the trunk for weight distribution purposes. It will draw air from under the car and will be fed by a 50 gpm remote electric water pump, also mounted in the trunk. The trunk lid and spare tire well have already been cut out to provide evacuation of the air.

The car has been completely gutted. For now I'm keeping the back seat and factory restraints in the vehicle. I have stripped the factory dash brace and have it in place for structural "support" and a place to mount the steering rack, dual tablets, and switches. 1 tablet to interface with the OBDll for my gauges and another to provide nav and audio via a Bluetooth amp.

A/C system is of course gone, as is everything in the engine bay that isn't for steering, braking, or making the car move. False firewall has been removed for better access and for an aero experiment. Radiator support bracket has been cut so that just the mounts for the sway bar remain. Front and rear bumper bars are gone.

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While I have the car apart, I'm going to do a budget high RPM NA build on the motor. That's the main focus of my work at the moment. Heads have already been stripped, bottom end need to come apart and everything needs to be cleaned and inspected. I'll be hand porting the heads, which I have been researching for the better part of a year. Contemplating fabbing up an ITB setup to better suit the characteristics I want out of this motor. Also redirecting the flow path of the coolant through the motor, but that's a whole other post.
Planning to bump the compression to 11 or 12 to 1 by milling the heads. Swap coyote rods in place of the stockers for the added strength. Also heard somewhere that they might be lighter, and I hope that's true. I'll balance the factory pistons and rods to within .1 gram and do a partial blueprint of the bottom end. Trying to get the rotating mass as low as reasonable given my funds. Which are non existent. ATI super damper. Already have an exedy lightweight steel flywheel, so will have to rock that until I can afford an aluminum piece. I'll clean up all the oil galleys while it's out.

Alright. That's all for now. I'll have to update more here soon when my fingers stop hurting.
 

RocketcarX

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This looks like its gonna be a fun build!
From all of my research you may wan to limit the RPM to 6800-7k. The valve train is apparently a problem for high RPM use.
 

Dreadknought

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I haven't been able to find much discussion on the actual application of high RPM in the 3 valve. My best info atm is actually a video of the valve train on youtube.


They have another video at 9k. Doesn't look so good lol.
Based on this info( I don't really have any other "experienced" sources) I'm looking to push 8k. Because of the limited displacement, compression and RPM will probably be my best bet to get power out of this motor. Wish it had a better rod ratio though.
 

RocketcarX

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If you search the forum there are many threads based around dropped valves and followers popping out at high rpm
 

swflastang05

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Good luck with your build, the most important factor is to have fun with it! FWIW I spin mine 7500 without issue, it actually feels like its begging for more.
 

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