Did a ghetto heat wrap on my hot air intake

D1984

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I have the PMAS "CAI". I think it looks OK, sounds awesome, and flows awesome. But it sucks in a ton of hot air from the engine bay. The "heat shield" is a joke that fits like garbage and is not sealed off whatsoever. When I'm cruising, it's no big deal. I have a Steeda upper grille and Boss/CS lower fascia so everything is really open. IATs cruising and on my WOT datalogs are at the most 10 degrees F above ambient, most of the time right at or a degree or two above ambient, even without the heat shield (no difference in IATs between heat shield vs. no heat shield on my car), so once it's moving it's fine. But when I am stopped, the IATs start rising fast and significantly whether the heat shield is installed or not. You can definitely feel the car being sluggish off the line after sitting at a stoplight. At the track, I think this would hurt my quarter mile times since it doesn't drop down to an acceptable level until I'm going like 40-50mph.

The MAF housing is made out of aluminum, then there is a silicone sleeve followed by a plastic elbow and another silicone sleeve that connects to the TB. Just feeling it with your hand, you can see the aluminum MAF housing (which is quite large and makes up about 30% of the overall length of the unit) gets EXTREMELY hot vs. the plastic and silicone.

I decided to go to Home Depot and pick up a roll of adhesive pipe wrap insulation tape: http://www.homedepot.com/p/E-O-2-in-x-15-ft-Foam-and-Foil-Pipe-Wrap-Insulation-Tape-FV15H/100174724

The only part of the intake I wrapped is that aluminum MAF housing and the silicone section attached to it. I did a quick job just to test it. It looks super ghetto, I'll probably redo it later. I might do the elbow too but that doesn't sit very close to the headers and really doesn't even feel that hot compared to the rest.

I tested it by letting it sit in my garage after about a 30 minute drive (I was datalogging for my tuner today). The outside temps were about 81 degrees when I test it with no wrap, and about 86 degrees when I tested it with the wrap. AC on or off only showed about a 2 degree difference F, sometimes higher sometimes lower, not a significant amount in my opinion. IATs as measured live by my Diablosport Intune are as follows:

No wrap: 68-70 F degrees above ambient

Wrap: 47-49 F degrees above ambient

So the ghetto Home Depot wrap on only about half of the intake tube was good for a 21 degree F difference in idle IATs. Pretty significant if you ask me. I figure it will help the IATs drop a lot more as I'm pulling up to the line at the drag strip.

Here's a blurry picture of how it looks. Pretty damn ugly but it doesn't bother me. I'll redo it later so it's just a continuous wrap all the way around with no gaps.

temp image upload

I also took my breathers off today and reinstalled my factory PCV (with Ecoboost passenger side PCV valve) as I've been reading some not so great things about engine longevity with breathers and really don't want to deal with cleaning them all the time anyways, but that's a little off topic.

EDIT: And you might be able to spot my zip tie that's holding the driver side PCV hose at a certain position when it comes out of the inlet on the PMAS intake. That's another fitment issue with this thing. The PCV hose is at a pretty big angle compared to the inlet on the PMAS, to the point where it actually broke it loose when I managed to connect it (it's a metal piece that sticks through the plastic elbow and is secured by glue) and I'm sure would create a vacuum leak. So with the zip tie it holds the hose at an angle where it can go straight into the inlet instead of pull it to the side.
 
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46addict

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Nice job. I had no idea such a simple job would reduce IATs by a measurable amount.

I'm curious, what did you find about engine breathers that would harm longevity? Most of what I read deals with moisture build up in the crankcase, but I imagine any amount of moisture will evaporate once the oil temp goes above ambient for more than 15 minutes or so.
 

D1984

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Nice job. I had no idea such a simple job would reduce IATs by a measurable amount.

I'm curious, what did you find about engine breathers that would harm longevity? Most of what I read deals with moisture build up in the crankcase, but I imagine any amount of moisture will evaporate once the oil temp goes above ambient for more than 15 minutes or so.

I was mostly concerned with ring seal and crap building up under the valve covers and sludge. I did a lot of "internet research" and it seems like the opinions for breathers were mostly based on "I've had them for two years without problems" and the opinions against them were based on facts and observations on various cars over the years by people who know what they are doing. Also, I don't want to deal with cleaning them on a regular basis.
 

46addict

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But having a stock PCV without a oil/water separator transfers the gunk build up from the valve covers to the intake runners. I'm not a supporter of using breathers but I thought stock PCVs were purely for emissions reasons.
 

D1984

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But having a stock PCV without a oil/water separator transfers the gunk build up from the valve covers to the intake runners. I'm not a supporter of using breathers but I thought stock PCVs were purely for emissions reasons.

That's why you run an Ecoboost PCV valve and/or a good catch can. I would still rather have a little oil in the intake than ring seal issues. I had a Bob's catch can but had issues with it leaking where the hose connects to the PCV valve, so I took it off. I'll probably get the Ford Racing one at some point because it uses the quick connects
 

BruceH

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But having a stock PCV without a oil/water separator transfers the gunk build up from the valve covers to the intake runners. I'm not a supporter of using breathers but I thought stock PCVs were purely for emissions reasons.

The pcv system puts vacuum on the motor. This is a good thing.
 

D1984

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Imagine how cool they would be if you ditched that Hot Air Intake.:chewie:

Some day I'll do the same idle test with the stock airbox. For now, I just want to see if I see any gains at the track with this intake. I figured the 21 degree head start vs. no heat wrap on this PMAS will help me a bit. If it doesn't go any quicker, at least I'll have the cool sound :insane:
 

Department Of Boost

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Some day I'll do the same idle test with the stock airbox. For now, I just want to see if I see any gains at the track with this intake. I figured the 21 degree head start vs. no heat wrap on this PMAS will help me a bit. If it doesn't go any quicker, at least I'll have the cool sound :insane:

I did some data collection with the OEM intake on a 2015, which is almost identical to the 2011+ S197. The IAT's were ambient.
 

cbass

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Lethal have tested the no tune required s197 version and found that it was an improvement over stock. It's not just about IAT, airflow plays a part as well.

I also question how much better the PMAS intake with a tune vs any of the other intakes with a tune. PMAS is throwing out +20hp without a tune change if you get the one that comes with a MAF that's been scaled for the housing size.
 

cbass

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Department Of Boost

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Lethal have tested the no tune required s197 version and found that it was an improvement over stock. It's not just about IAT, airflow plays a part as well.

I mis-read that^^^^. I thought it said it didn't have a tune.

I would like to see the same testing on a street car........................on the street where 99% of us drive 99% of the time. Underhood temps are much, much higher in real life. Therefore so are IAT's.
 

D1984

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My IATs are at or within a few degrees F of ambient while cruising with this hot air intake, mainly due to my open grill and lower fascia. I'm more concerned about the IATs while stopped because I refuse to be that tool who is pushing his stock car through the staging lanes
 

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